Gear Reduction Starter

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redbone

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Feb 24, 2008
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I have installed a NAPA gr starter on my '77 2F fj40. I need to know how to wire in the wire to the coil.
 
redbone said:
I have installed a NAPA gr starter on my '77 2F fj40. I need to know how to wire in the wire to the coil.
Click to expand...
.

What?

Shane
 
The gr starter doesn't have a connection for the wire to boost the coil. In the FAQ it was mentioned there was some additional wiring to do. From what I've read this boosts the coil voltage to 12 volts to start the engine. When the engine starts and the key is released the coil goes to about 8-9 volts.
 
Yes I have searched the FAQ. Post #31 is what I'm talking about. There is not a place to connect the coil wire on the gr starter. This wire is needed to boost the coil to 12 volts to start the engine. What do I need to do? Thanks
 
Post #12 seems to contradict #11. Don't I still need the 12 volts to the coil? Why would changing to a gr starter negate the need for this wire? I apologize if I seem dense in the head but I need this to be explained to me. I am not a wiring expert. Thanks for the patience. <><
 
It is a bypass that sends the full 12 volts to the coil during starting. Tape it off - if the rig starts without it then it should be fine as it isn't used when the ignition is in the "run" position. I doubt it won't start as a result of this wire - are you still running a ballast resistor?
 
Nomis said:
It is a bypass that sends the full 12 volts to the coil during starting. Tape it off - if the rig starts without it then it should be fine as it isn't used when the ignition is in the "run" position. I doubt it won't start as a result of this wire - are you still running a ballast resistor?
Click to expand...

Yes it still has the ballast resistor. The rig only starts after several, several attempts. It used to start almost instantly. When it does start it seems to be weak at first. Post #17 & 23 in
FAQ suggests there is some rewiring to be done. I feel this is what mine needs. As I said I'm not a wiring expert. I just need some direction. Thanks

I'm not sure of the post #'s. It is the two by Landpimp.
 
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A wire from the terminal that activates the solenoid to the coil side of the ballast resistor should give you 12V to the coil only when the switch is in "start" position.

GL

Ed
 
Degnol, thanks. It was all so simple once you pointed it out. I didn't think it through far enough.<><:):bounce2:
 
Zoinks! Don't do that. If a wire is connected from starter trigger terminal to the ignition coil, then anytime the key is in the run position, power will flow from the coil to the trigger terminal, engaging the starter as soon as key (ignition) is on.

That is the reason there is a divorced contact in the starter for ballast bypass.

To make the GR starter work w/ ballast ignition, it is necessary to add a ballast bypass relay. Relay is triggered by starter wire, applies power direct from batt to coil only when starter terminal is hot. The relay serves to break the connection when key is released, instead of creating a backfeed loop.

Kinda like the backfeed problem sometimes seen w/ a delco alternator swap.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Zoinks! Don't do that. If a wire is connected from starter trigger terminal to the ignition coil, then anytime the key is in the run position, power will flow from the coil to the trigger terminal, engaging the starter as soon as key (ignition) is on.

That is the reason there is a divorced contact in the starter for ballast bypass.

To make the GR starter work w/ ballast ignition, it is necessary to add a ballast bypass relay. Relay is triggered by starter wire, applies power direct from batt to coil only when starter terminal is hot. The relay serves to break the connection when key is released, instead of creating a backfeed loop.

Kinda like the backfeed problem sometimes seen w/ a delco alternator swap.
Click to expand...


Never thought about the backfeed problem. would the 7-9 volts be enough to trip the starter soleniod? I mean if the source of the backfeed is after the ballast resistor, it would be something less than 12V, right?

Ed(wearing dunce cap^)
 
Degnol said:
Never thought about the backfeed problem. would the 7-9 volts be enough to trip the starter soleniod? I mean if the source of the backfeed is after the ballast resistor, it would be something less than 12V, right?

Ed(wearing dunce cap^)
Click to expand...

Yes it would. 12volt Bosch relays (most common type used in auto work) will pull in at 8 volts.
 
FJ40JIM, thanks for the help.

Degnol, thanks for your help also. I know it was well intended. BTW when I was checking the voltage at the coil, when I turned the key to on the solenoid did try to engage. Thank goodness the motor wasn't running. Thanks again.<><
 
I finally got off the road so I could try to fix this starter. The local starter repair shop told me to connect the starter end of the bypass wire to the terminal on the starter motor. That way it only gets 12 v when the switch is triggered.

Now it cranks instantly, but won't keep running. It starts but stumbles a few seconds then dies. Before this it was hard to crank, but it would finally crank. Any ideas? redbone :doh:
 
redbone said:
I finally got off the road so I could try to fix this starter. The local starter repair shop told me to connect the starter end of the bypass wire to the terminal on the starter motor. That way it only gets 12 v when the switch is triggered.

Now it cranks instantly, but won't keep running. It starts but stumbles a few seconds then dies. Before this it was hard to crank, but it would finally crank. Any ideas? redbone :doh:
Click to expand...
Which part of this is unclear:
"To make the GR starter work w/ ballast ignition, it is necessary to add a ballast bypass relay. Relay is triggered by starter wire, applies power direct from batt to coil only when starter terminal is hot. The relay serves to break the connection when key is released, instead of creating a backfeed loop."

What's happening is when key is in crank position, ignition switch is supplying 12V to coil.
When key is released, power from the ignition coil + terminal is reduced by the ballast resistor to ~6V.
Some of that V. is going to the ignition coil, some is going to ground through the starter solenoid.
So only 3V is getting to the ignition coil. Not enough to run.
 
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I said that I wasn't very electrically inclined. But, it is now a done deal. I connected the ballast wire to the starter wire with the inline relay. Now it works like a charm. Thanks for all the help. When I looked in the FAQ it was not explained in simple enough detail for someone like me who is still learning.
 
I didn't get that by reading the FAQ's either. I thought all you had to do was tie off the other wire because it was not necessary. Mine has an HEI distributor. Wonder if I need to wire it to the starter also?
 
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