gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (4 Viewers)

[Adam B]

Just to clarify the valve body thing, I've always called mine the "Extreme Valve Body", which I got through Outback Imports in Canada in spring 2007. At that time (maybe now too?) they seem to have had an exclusive distributor thing going on. They called it the "Extreme Valve Body" so I did too.

Looking at the Wholesale Automatics website: HERE I see they refer to it as either the "Stage 1 Nomad" or "Stage 2 Extreme" so I assumed mine is the S2E. I really have no idea now!

 

[Adam B]

Interesting time to be talking about gearing...

Last year I contacted a member asking about where he got his gears done and I was considering switching from 4.10s to 4.88s this year. My 34s were worn out (I got a full 5 years out of the Trxus MTs) and I was thinking about getting 35s. So last month I got new 35" tires, which was a noticable change from worn out 34s that probably only measured 33". The truck felt a bit slower, of course.

I just went through the wonderful task of fitting a new MUCH bigger water/air intercooler core and radiator that can actually handle the boosted CFM I'm flowing and again it feels like a new truck! Good timing as my old Denco (PWR) 4x10 barrel must have started leaking internally at some point in the last 2 months. It was a slow leak, but managed to use up all the fluid without any symptoms other than the truck feeling less powerful at high boost. Haven't got the thermocouples in the new setup yet but I will soon and in 5 weeks I'll give it the old Coquihalla test. Heavy load, looooong steep hills, 1500m above sea level, up to 10 minutes at a time at full boost and max EGT.

To make a long story short, the truck feels PERFECT with 4.10s and 35" tires, 20psi boost, 3" exhaust, Extreme Valve Body, and a good intercooler. I will not be regearing.

A drop-in t-case option with 1:1, 2:1, and 4:1 would be the cat's ass, though. Oh, and I want it to fit standard length driveshafts too.

 

[BCR4619]

Just to clarify the valve body thing, I've always called mine the "Extreme Valve Body", which I got through Outback Imports in Canada in spring 2007. At that time (maybe now too?) they seem to have had an exclusive distributor thing going on. They called it the "Extreme Valve Body" so I did too.

Looking at the Wholesale Automatics website: HERE I see they refer to it as either the "Stage 1 Nomad" or "Stage 2 Extreme" so I assumed mine is the S2E. I really have no idea now!

Lol that's my problem now, it was marked on the side of the box and now I can't remember which one it was. I'll send a few emails to see what the difference is.

 

[Enigma]

I think enigma means his low range could be better with his 35s
Transfer gears is the answer in my eyes

Yah, low range is what I meant. The truck is perfect right now for highway cruising, but low range, going down hill more so, sucks ass so completely that no turbo is going to help
But that's another thread....

 

[gbentink]

My answer would be perfectly for crusing, the issue is that if you are having issues the other guys are having with regards to low speed hill decents and reversing issues then the turbo wont fix that obviously. I dont do much in the mud and tight twisty. We have such long spaces here in Oz that fuel economy and ability to pass road trains quickly is I guess high on my list of priorities.

I think a Transfer kit with reduced gearing while fitting the 3.7 diffs is what I would do if I had an 80 series.

How would the gearing on a H55, 3.7 diffs and 33's match up to one of your turbo's and a tune Graeme? I have a 300mm Isuzu clutch plate in mine..

 

[gbentink]

Intersting, the trannys shouldnt slip and shudder. They should jam into gear with gusto but not slip.... I would be looking into this.

Kickdown cable adjustment is king and fuel settings with aneroid control has a profound effect on the gearchaneg as it changes the time based torque response when you plant it. Gear changes are also time based. Its hard to match it but theer is an optimum setting on any given vehicle - whether that setting is acceptabl;e is another thing

well nice intake settup graeme looks kind of like my old settup thought you might have shortend the run up by going under the battery ,then its not expossed to the outside down low. bet your turbo is really working now hey. . probably the best mod ive done on mine. been doing some trany testing even the extreme valve body slips and shudders

 

[wrongway around]

yes proven that even atebs minor mods get slippage shuderring even with the vb upgrades .kind of think even with a fresh tranny and kevlar clutches wont hold . i was hoping to dyno my truck on satruday but my tranny is not strong enough to hold power. hoping radd cruisers will help me out with a complete extreme set up .but my funds are quite limited .so what do you think your whp is now. i am finding this trany thing very limiting . one thing the turbo lag is probably a good thing but when you start to tune with the instant responce well it sure is limiting my mechanic. any help should benifit all. .i am at the point that i might pull my turbo and go stock turbo to save the tranny but then my egts would suffer. would be nice to do a dyno first at least

 

[gbentink]

Sounds very strange to me. I think something is amiss. There is a 1HD-FT holding 230whp and doesnt slip on lockup at 1800rpm and 30psi boost.....

These trannys when it good condition and an extreme valve body should do 200whp for 10yrs......

I think you have a problem with yours (unfortunately)

yes proven that even atebs minor mods get slippage shuderring even with the vb upgrades .kind of think even with a fresh tranny and kevlar clutches wont hold . i was hoping to dyno my truck on satruday but my tranny is not strong enough to hold power. hoping radd cruisers will help me out with a complete extreme set up .but my funds are quite limited .so what do you think your whp is now. i am finding this trany thing very limiting . one thing the turbo lag is probably a good thing but when you start to tune with the instant responce well it sure is limiting my mechanic. any help should benifit all. .i am at the point that i might pull my turbo and go stock turbo to save the tranny but then my egts would suffer. would be nice to do a dyno first at least

 

[FJRanger]

Sounds very strange to me. I think something is amiss. There is a 1HD-FT holding 230whp and doesnt slip on lockup at 1800rpm and 30psi boost.....

These trannys when it good condition and an extreme valve body should do 200whp for 10yrs......

I think you have a problem with yours (unfortunately)

Okay, this make me feel a bit better. My swap is done and the bad boy is on but I have yet to start playing with the fuel and boost. I did the extreme valve body in preparation and the transplanted A442F only had approximately 88,000 mile on it when it went in.

 

[Dougal]

i am at the point that i might pull my turbo and go stock turbo to save the tranny but then my egts would suffer. would be nice to do a dyno first at least

There's no point swapping turbos again. Better to drop boost and fuel levels until you get it sorted. Yes you will lose some power, but it's better than walking.

 

[Trock]

My answer would be perfectly for crusing, the issue is that if you are having issues the other guys are having with regards to low speed hill decents and reversing issues then the turbo wont fix that obviously. I dont do much in the mud and tight twisty. We have such long spaces here in Oz that fuel economy and ability to pass road trains quickly is I guess high on my list of priorities.

I think a Transfer kit with reduced gearing while fitting the 3.7 diffs is what I would do if I had an 80 series.

Thanks, my Cruiser is used for touring so it sounds perfect.. although sometimes I wouldn't mind a taller fifth.. Now I just have to shoehorn that intercooler in and then put my order in with you..

 

[wrongway around]

this is not just my truck doing this .if it was i would be putting what the other trucks have in them .on my truck there is no slippage in lockup under any load at any speed 58 km- 170 + km on 35s with 411s trany temps are even 150- 170 . but out of lockup is a totally different story ,high temps slippage under big load .i will add that i am quite a bit heavier than most with my scrapyard belly amour etc etc. yes dougal i here you there that is what i have been doing but it is quite fustrating that without spending 5 -7 grand on a trany a guy cant play ,man that is more than i paid for my truck, .

 

[ForealBoreal]

this is not just my truck doing this .if it was i would be putting what the other trucks have in them .

tuner related?
So basically expect if you screw with the turbo and fuel expect to go into the level 2 valve body....

 

[sailor]

I think george is quite happy with the power and performance he is achieving, his truck breaks the back tires loose almost at will. Think HDJ drift car. He is looking to find a local solution to smartening up his stock automatic without going the full wholesale route. The reason for this is likely partly the cost and partly the down time he might experience if he has any issues with the Wholesale trans. Like slow boat shipping to and from down under down time. If Wholesale had a reasonably priced product here with spares available on the ground in the lower mainland I would likely pony up. I have no Axe to grind with their importer in Canada but have no burning desire to deal with them either... George's 'Tuner' has another truck with their performance mods and an Extreme VB and it is exhibiting similar trans issues under full power so I think this adds to his desire to research his options very carefully before taking the big plunge.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I think george is quite happy with the power and performance he is achieving, his truck breaks the back tires loose almost at will. Think HDJ drift car. He is looking to find a local solution to smartening up his stock automatic without going the full wholesale route. The reason for this is likely partly the cost and partly the down time he might experience if he has any issues with the Wholesale trans. Like slow boat shipping to and from down under down time. If Wholesale had a reasonably priced product here with spares available on the ground in the lower mainland I would likely pony up. I have no Axe to grind with their importer in Canada but have no burning desire to deal with them either... George's 'Tuner' has another truck with their performance mods and an Extreme VB and it is exhibiting similar trans issues under full power so I think this adds to his desire to research his options very carefully before taking the big plunge.

Yeah fair enough. I am curious to see what the outcome will be.
I really hope John or George at ATEB can tune my fuel pump down the road when I get it rebuilt (when its needed) and add a boost comp to it. My buddy with his 81 is getting the mod done and he said its a completely different truck (fuel pin) and has ordered a evb. I hope for his sake it is a stage 2 and the tuning can be sorted out.

 

[wrongway around]

george has nothing to do with ateb i dont fix trucks i break them. and to think tuner related ,ha now that is good. to bad ateb was not into high output trannies , would not be any problems then. i will add that i am sorry this thread got so derailed ,just thought that the guys running these turbos might have had some input about the tranny being they are at the high level whp . i have tried to start a thread on my own but did not get any feed back. and know that this is going to be a problem to alot of cruisers out there with these recent mods coming to light , let alone the near future .so if anyone else has these trany isues ,can i ask that we start a seperate thread ,cause i feel bad talking on gbeniks post

 

[gbentink]

this is not just my truck doing this .if it was i would be putting what the other trucks have in them .on my truck there is no slippage in lockup under any load at any speed 58 km- 170 + km on 35s with 411s trany temps are even 150- 170 . but out of lockup is a totally different story ,high temps slippage under big load .i will add that i am quite a bit heavier than most with my s****yard belly amour etc etc. yes dougal i here you there that is what i have been doing but it is quite fustrating that without spending 5 -7 grand on a trany a guy cant play ,man that is more than i paid for my truck, .

I empathise with you; it just hasnt been my experience. Have you tried adjusting the kickdown? Eeven a few threads of adjustment can make quite a difference

I have an 80 in my short term possesion (1HDFT 4/96) that has an extreme trans and its clunky but doesnt slip like you are saying. I had two others in the early hydraulic A442F and both were fine, with an exception.....My trans failed after trying to tune the aneroid by on stalling up on the auto (dont do this btw). My trans died. That was with the extreme valve body in it. Prior to it failing, the trans was really terrific. Then I had it rebuilt by someone else and it was an absolute dog nasty thing until i spent alot of time balancing the aneroid spring tension and the kickdown cable and in the end its sortof ok..... 5 years later, it still sortof ok

If anyone can come up with a better solution that Wholesale Automatics then that would be sensational. I personally find $850 shocking when I bought a kit for my A750F that I fitted myself for $120..... and there really isnt anything different, both achieve results by the use of extra springs, pretension spacers on springs, drilling out restrictors to specified sizes etc.... so bring it on!! Toyota have a terrible first to second gear change anyway - it is specifically what Wholesale automatics was trying to correct.

 

[gbentink]

Back to turbos.

Last week I got a text from a guy in Queensland who bought one of my turbos and onsold it as a package with pump and injectors. They installed new injectors and dialed in the fuel and ran the 1HDFT up opn the dyno. Made 30psi by 1600rpm and 230whp. Im waiting on a dyno printout. It was heavily fueled but still managed 18:1 running 30psi at 1600. 18:1 is some smoke, but not too bad.

I *do not* reccomend 30psi on the Bad Boy although I have done it. I limit to 25psi, you are safe at that. I do build for 30+psi however its special order and good for 270whp.

I convert the CT26 to run with a Superback (Garrett term) style wheel on all my turbos. Back in 06 I did run ~ 25psi with a modded comp wheel thats not "superback" and a 360 degree thrust bearing only but the wheel did distort, thankfully without a real blowup. If anyone does do just a comp wheel change because they are only after top end improvements and are on a budget, dont set boost to over 20psi as a regular setting, the wheels with flat back and rear cut back (you have no choice to fit these on a stock CT26 without substantial changes) arent designed for the high rpms required to do that. It may last a couple of years (or not), but you dont want it to fail in that fashion anywhere away from home. The reason is simply that the oil, which is full flow on a CT26, bypasses the destroyed front seal and your engine will run on, using engine oil, typically to ~ 5-6000rpm, unltil oil level drops or something breaks. It is happening relatively frequently on 300kkm 1HDT's these days, even on stock boost.

Comments that are made at various times about "hot air after 15psi on a CT26" by "those experienced with 3SGTE and 7MGTE's etc, while they have valuable experience, its limited to those engines. The CT26 can most definately pump efficiently at higher boost levels though to do this reliably you need to make some difficult mods, otherwise the comp wheel will break. Anyone running a larger comp wheel can testify that they pump nicely higher than 15psi.

I should restate that my mods are not all about power, its about response early in revs while STILL getting great power; and there lies the conundrum in turbo sizing. Typically you can get one without the other. The Bad Boy and Grunter does both. If you tune to the max a stock or otherwise modded CT26, remove it and do nothing but replace the turbo and set boost the same, the bottom end difference will be substantially improved and top end, within reason should be about the same, may be better depending on what the other spec is.

 

[crushers]

okay, i am impressed.
so, where do i find the cost of the setup?

i am short on time so i can't do a search right now.
or
you can email me at wayne@crushersrule.com

 

[lumpy70]

this is not just my truck doing this .if it was i would be putting what the other trucks have in them .on my truck there is no slippage in lockup under any load at any speed 58 km- 170 + km on 35s with 411s trany temps are even 150- 170 . but out of lockup is a totally different story ,high temps slippage under big load .i will add that i am quite a bit heavier than most with my scrapyard belly amour etc etc. yes dougal i here you there that is what i have been doing but it is quite fustrating that without spending 5 -7 grand on a trany a guy cant play ,man that is more than i paid for my truck, .

How are you seeing the slippage, in tranny temps?