Sounds like your probe doesn't reach the hottest part of your exhaust.
gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (1 Viewer)
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Sounds like your probe doesn't reach the hottest part of your exhaust.
Can only vouch for the bb2, but it gets to 30psi easily enough, found that out on first test drive....... Previous turbo boost had been set at 14psi on controller, so did not think to touch it, wound fuel up about 1/4 turn for starter and the needle nearly jumped off the dial when mashing skinny pedal in third. I think it went to 35 but that was enough of a scare for one day.Baby steps.
My gut tells me that the standard snorkel and air box is really restricting its breathing from mid to high revs now, so a 4 inch intake system now has priority over large front mount intercooler, along with nutting out some sort of rev gauge, might have to look at plugging one into the IP.
Just bought a Fatz Fabrications 4'' stainless snorkel in Rockhampton QLD, it's to be cut into the guard so it doesn't stick out so far. It's a really well made and finished product, can get it with or without ram head, I have, a mate doesn't, both look good.
It's better to ring than email, here is the link to their site.
http://www.fatzfab.cqoz.com/index.html
Even my mechanic said I probably wouldn't see much over 350 degrees until we'd finished all the mods and we could ramp up the power. The 425 was going up a long hill and pulling a van. What sort of temps do stock setups make?
The site is being built as we speak. It will have information on differences in the builds, kits and performance. Stay hungry and thanks for the patience!
Yea for the price and looks its pretty tempting just to buy one, by the time i buy stainless wire and gas for mig, stainless bends etc it just dosent seem worth it to make one myself. Will prolly go down that path, just have to convince the missus its a new safety feature like the fire supression system........
Somethings not right or the tune is super super conservative. Even stock I could easily go way past 500c unloaded.
It is super conservative. My red turbo light never even comes on. Anyway, we'll find out in a few weeks when it's all done. Then I'll post figures for a 1HDT with BB1, 3" exhaust and custom FMIC. I'll be asking for as much as possible out of it.
By the way, do you guys have manual boost controllers connected to your turbos to make it easier to adjust boost? I've heard that they can delay the spool up if not the right type. I'm considering one because I've been told that mine is difficult to adjust because the waste gate is right up against the engine.
Stock, most vehicles about 400C at cruise, 600+ at full load. I run 750C max and have seen 900C accidentally.
350C max means something is wrong with your probe.
130C is cold idle, 170C is warm idle. Don't shut it down above 200C.
Quick update: I have a G2(?) on my 260k 1HD 1994, running at 22psi max with front mount a2a ic. Had a problem with high egt and smoke. I can't find any proper exhaust fabricators here in Arusha, Tanzania and ended up getting something made up with 2.5in black pipe and all bends welded not bent, so, v far from ideal. Well, I get the green boost light at 1,000 rpm now and a lot less black smoke so I'm v happy despite the Heath Robinson exhaust system.
So, this is proof that freeing up the exhaust makes a huge difference.
I want to get hold of a 3in pipe that fits to the turbo on exhaust side and a 3in flexible part, who could supply just those parts?
So, this is proof that freeing up the exhaust makes a huge difference.
I want to get hold of a 3in pipe that fits to the turbo on exhaust side and a 3in flexible part, who could supply just those parts?
Grunter update
After a few days of driving around and not blowing off intercooler hoses, I'm starting to settle into enjoying the new Grunter fitted to a 1987 12HT in a Jap spec 24v HJ61
I had the first GTurbo - a prototype and it was dynoed at 450nm at 1600rpm. After over a year or so of running, it has been replaced by the most modern incarnation of the Grunter, and the improvements are obvious without putting it on the dyno again. City driving is okay with the Grunter, but the joy will come from highway driving and the high torque slingshotting me up the hills.
With the prototype, I could never get the orange light to come on at 1800rpm. Now it is easy to do in normal driving, especially up a bit of an incline. The motor feels a lot stronger at lower revs, and holds this unbelievable torque right through to 3000rpm and beyond.
It's much quieter than the prototype. Although the prototype got noisy towards the end as it had ingested sand which blasted the compressor wheel, the Grunter is much quieter than the prototype ever was.
I'm about to lead an expedition over Easter that will take me 2500km into the outback whilst towing a 1.5T loaded trailer with everyones gear on it, and my veggie oil. This will be a nice test for the Grunter, and if I don't give Graeme any grief when I get back, I might even be allowed to have a nice shiny heat resistant "Grunter" sticker on the turbo
Enjoy your ride.
Tim
After a few days of driving around and not blowing off intercooler hoses, I'm starting to settle into enjoying the new Grunter fitted to a 1987 12HT in a Jap spec 24v HJ61
I had the first GTurbo - a prototype and it was dynoed at 450nm at 1600rpm. After over a year or so of running, it has been replaced by the most modern incarnation of the Grunter, and the improvements are obvious without putting it on the dyno again. City driving is okay with the Grunter, but the joy will come from highway driving and the high torque slingshotting me up the hills.
With the prototype, I could never get the orange light to come on at 1800rpm. Now it is easy to do in normal driving, especially up a bit of an incline. The motor feels a lot stronger at lower revs, and holds this unbelievable torque right through to 3000rpm and beyond.
It's much quieter than the prototype. Although the prototype got noisy towards the end as it had ingested sand
which blasted the compressor wheel, the Grunter is much quieter than the prototype ever was. I'm about to lead an expedition over Easter that will take me 2500km into the outback whilst towing a 1.5T loaded trailer with everyones gear on it, and my veggie oil. This will be a nice test for the Grunter, and if I don't give Graeme any grief when I get back, I might even be allowed to have a nice shiny heat resistant "Grunter" sticker on the turbo
Enjoy your ride.
Tim
Easter run completed.
2250km and used about 315 litres of fuel, veggie oil and biodiesel. Pulling 1.5 tonne trailer on dirt and black top, generally 90 kmh to 100kmh on highway which was 70% of travel. Also inadvertently left front hubs engaged for last 600km on the highway :doh. No wonder I could only hit 130kmh up the hill passing a 1HZ.
Fuel consumption works out around 7.3km/l or 13.5l/100km. By way of comparison, the previous prototype G Turbo gave me less fuel consumption, so the new Grunter has improved my economy by between 5 and 10% under these loaded conditions. I was pushing boost of close to 15psi all the way. EGT stayed around 350*C on highway cruise, only reaching 600*C after full throttle hill climbs at 100kmh plus for more than half a minute.
Note, this engine has fuel screw completely unwound. No visible smoke under full power as viewed by the grimacing 1HZ owner when he was passed at 130 on a hill.
All good news for prospective Grunter owners with a 12HT
Tim
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
2250km and used about 315 litres of fuel, veggie oil and biodiesel. Pulling 1.5 tonne trailer on dirt and black top, generally 90 kmh to 100kmh on highway which was 70% of travel. Also inadvertently left front hubs engaged for last 600km on the highway :doh. No wonder I could only hit 130kmh up the hill passing a 1HZ.
Fuel consumption works out around 7.3km/l or 13.5l/100km. By way of comparison, the previous prototype G Turbo gave me less fuel consumption, so the new Grunter has improved my economy by between 5 and 10% under these loaded conditions. I was pushing boost of close to 15psi all the way. EGT stayed around 350*C on highway cruise, only reaching 600*C after full throttle hill climbs at 100kmh plus for more than half a minute.
Note, this engine has fuel screw completely unwound. No visible smoke under full power as viewed by the grimacing 1HZ owner when he was passed at 130 on a hill.
All good news for prospective Grunter owners with a 12HT
Tim
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
Read about a serious failer on another forum.
http://www.offroad80s.com/the-gturbo-thread-post-here-t11066-105.html
Thats a big fail.....
Hamo
http://www.offroad80s.com/the-gturbo-thread-post-here-t11066-105.html
Thats a big fail.....
Hamo
Oh WHAT EVER. Scare mongering?? The clamp let go - could happen to any turbo.
Compressor cover came off. Random. So rare I've never seen another photo of a turbo like that.
I'm sure Graeme will chime in with a full autopsy.
sailor
Jackass of all trades
Looks like a random failure, not indicative of the the overall quality of the product, supplier stepped up fully, no problem.
That's my turbo.
As said the clip let go. Mines a very early one, and runs a different housing to the new one (not sure if this has any relevance?).
Graeme had a new (and upgraded) turbo on the way to me within 3 days, it turned up today and I will be bolting it on tonight.
I was lucky that it didn't cause any other damage, but this is the game we play!
I'm more than happy with the service, and the turbo had done around 25000k (yes I know it should last longer, but like I said it was an early one)
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Graeme
are you able to PM me roughly the cost of second (smaller) turbo for compound turbo assuming that my SUPRA CT26 turbo (if I sent it to you) is very similar to your settings and I am assuming so as the SABAH boys played with it and the fuel pump (21PSI settings). This is all on a 13B-T which we have discussed before.
can/do you also provide the manifold for the second turbo?
I just gotta rebuild the engine first had a small failure - oops and then replace the gauges (OIL TEMP/WATER TEMP/EGT and BOOST which were all stolen a few years ago outside a workshop) .
So far up for new PISTONS/SLEEVES/RINGS and bearings - CONRODS OK but pulling the ones from my spare engine for the rebuild.
are you able to PM me roughly the cost of second (smaller) turbo for compound turbo assuming that my SUPRA CT26 turbo (if I sent it to you) is very similar to your settings and I am assuming so as the SABAH boys played with it and the fuel pump (21PSI settings). This is all on a 13B-T which we have discussed before.
can/do you also provide the manifold for the second turbo?
I just gotta rebuild the engine first had a small failure - oops and then replace the gauges (OIL TEMP/WATER TEMP/EGT and BOOST which were all stolen a few years ago outside a workshop) .
So far up for new PISTONS/SLEEVES/RINGS and bearings - CONRODS OK but pulling the ones from my spare engine for the rebuild.
There is no need for compounding turbo's (unless your running seriously high boost). This is the reason why we buy GTurbo's right here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjd1SewojJ8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjd1SewojJ8
