Gauge cluster and idle circuit lose power intermittently…switch key off and on, it fires back up! (2 Viewers)

[Hoppsalot]

Thanks to all for your advice…I’m very happy to say that the problem appears to be fixed!

I cleaned the ignition connection, it’s a sealed unit but has a small hole in the back so I used electrical connection cleaner, sprayed it in there a few times until it came out clean.

I then measured the voltage at idle and at roughly 2k rpm and it was very low. I opened the voltage regulator and adjusted the gap, now getting 14v.

It seems to be running better than ever, I think the additional voltage at all rev ranges must be improving the ignition…or something, either way I’m very happy to report it’s fixed!

Thanks again!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks to all for your advice…I’m very happy to say that the problem appears to be fixed!

I cleaned the ignition connection, it’s a sealed unit but has a small hole in the back so I used electrical connection cleaner, sprayed it in there a few times until it came out clean.

I then measured the voltage at idle and at roughly 2k rpm and it was very low. I opened the voltage regulator and adjusted the gap, now getting 14v.

It seems to be running better than ever, I think the additional voltage at all rev ranges must be improving the ignition…or something, either way I’m very happy to report it’s fixed!

Thanks again!

Can you please elaborate more and in detail exactly what parts yoh cleaned and lubed ?

So repair scope included your voltage regulator and the colum mounted electrical key switch too ?

The sealed unit term is interesting…

Below is a example tech image of a Elec key switch

Is this the sealed unit you cleaned and Lubed ?

Lastly how and what and why did you adjust your voltage regulator ?

Old old Toyotas did have a little flat head theaded rod you could tweek

I have not seen one in 20$ years ,?

I am chomping at the bit to see photos

GOOD JOB making a good repair here

Matt


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[Hoppsalot]

Can you please elaborate more and in detail exactly what parts yoh cleaned and lubed ?

So repair scope included your voltage regulator and the colum mounted electrical key switch too ?

The sealed unit term is interesting…

Below is a example tech image of a Elec key switch

Is this the sealed unit you cleaned and Lubed ?

Lastly how and what and why did you adjust your voltage regulator ?

Old old Toyotas did have a little flat head theaded rod you could tweek

I have not seen one in 20$ years ,?

I am chomping at the bit to see photos

GOOD JOB making a good repair here

Matt


-



View attachment 3593862View attachment 3593863View attachment 3593864

Hi Matt,

Those ignition switch units look slightly different, I’ll try to take a pic when I get a chance.

The adjustment I made in the voltage regulator was to the gap in the photo below, kept bending the arm on the left to the right until it would keep voltage up to 14v before switching back down.

Seems to have done the trick!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hi Matt,

Those ignition switch units look slightly different, I’ll try to take a pic when I get a chance.

The adjustment I made in the voltage regulator was to the gap in the photo below, kept bending the arm on the left to the right until it would keep voltage up to 14v before switching back down.

Seems to have done the trick!

View attachment 3593869

.


if you have a : Saudi spec 1982 FJ40 with a 2F , ?

this is the correct Toyota genuine part #


now back to the voltage regulator .



the new era one in the first post , ?

show me the plug connectors please >?


both sides


this is very important


thanks






this here below please ....

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Lastly ,


the general countries 2F in saudi Spec region will look like this below

i need a good up closes and personal photos of , the rear where the ring terminal and input plastic connector go

the side and the front


put camera plumb level and square

i need several pics of rear one of side and front is good


your alternator is Drivers side lower on LHD mounting location .....right ?



thanks


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