Gauge cluster and idle circuit lose power intermittently…switch key off and on, it fires back up! (1 Viewer)

[Hoppsalot]

Hi Guys,

My Saudi spec 1982 FJ40 with a 2F has developed a strange intermittent electrical fault. It mainly occurs when the vehicle is just sitting idling, the engine will stop running and the instrument panel loses power. I can restart the engine and it will run but the idle circuit has no power so I have to keep feathering the gas pedal.

if I shut it off completely and wait a few second, turn the key back on and I see the instrument panel/ gauge cluster come to life and it fires up no issues. Happened yesterday after a 200 km trip outside of Riyadh…photo from the trip attached!

Nothing has been done to the vehicle electrically for the last 1,500Kms but the last previous owner did put a new aftermarket gauge cluster in it. I can’t see any loose wires and it’s making me think it’s something like a bad ground or maybe issues with the fuse box (which has seen better days). It doesnt make sense in my head that switching it off and back on again would fix it but it seems to work.

Any suggestions of where to start trouble shooting is appreciate?

cheers

 

[Hoppsalot]

Should mention it’s stock in the engine compartment, only aftermarket headlights and bumper leds.

 

[3_puppies]

check battery connections, both + and - on both ends
also does your 1979 have a fusible link off the battery? it will be another wire coming off the battery +

 

[Mike Shull]

What aftermarket gauges are being used and how does the main power get routed from the amp gauge to the fuse panel? I’d check what was mentioned above, and I’d put a volt meter on the main power coming out of the amp gauge and see what it reads when your issue is present.

 

[Hoppsalot]

check battery connections, both + and - on both ends
also does your 1979 have a fusible link off the battery? it will be another wire coming off the battery +

I’ll check it out, not certain it has a fusible link but I’ll check for that. I do disconnect the positive post when I park it up as it gets left sitting…maybe that’s it, I tend to just push it back on and don’t tighten it up, it’s a friction fit only

 

[Hoppsalot]

What aftermarket gauges are being used and how does the main power get routed from the amp gauge to the fuse panel? I’d check what was mentioned above, and I’d put a volt meter on the main power coming out of the amp gauge and see what it reads when your issue is present.

I’m not certain what brand gauges but they are just reproduction if the originals, not digital. I believe the connection is just plugged back in to the harness through the original plug but I’ll double check. Good idea, I’ll get the multimeter out next time it occurs instead of just trying to get it restarted.

 

[MDH33]

Nice looking cruiser!

Could be battery connection like mentioned. Where is your fuel cut solenoid getting power from?

 

[Hoppsalot]

Nice looking cruiser!

Could be battery connection like mentioned. Where is your fuel cut solenoid getting power from?

Cheers, I’m enjoying it, just trying to get some miles on it now to find the bugs like this one

I’ll check the full cut off solenoid, come to think of it it looked like a poor connection last time I was fiddling with the carb. I’ll check it out.

As a dash gauges go at the same time I’m thinking it must be on the same circuit linked to the ignition…maybe

 

[B y r o n]

I'd also double check your ground connections to the chassis. Not just a visual but grab a hold and see if they will wiggle.

 

[Hoppsalot]

So…my problem persists but I may have pinned down one or two areas to look at, looking for advice.

Last weekend after a transfer and trans oil change I took my FJ out for a drive. It ran perfectly for 100km or so and the 5km from home the same issue happened, the instrument cluster looses power and the engine will only stay running if revved, it won’t idle. I pulled over, checked some connections again and cycled the ignition a few times and randomly the power comes back, it fires up perfectly and I drove home.

When home I left it idling to see if I could replicate the fault. Whilst doing that I noticed the engine rpm’s were fluctuating, almost like the engine was coming under load. I got out my multimeter and checked the battery while it was running, when it sounded under load the meter read around 13.4v but when the revs sped up, it dropped to 12.4v or so. I assume this is the voltage regulator kicking in. I then revved the engine and the charge remained at 12.4v except for the odd occasion it would jump in to the 13’s.

The fault of losing power typically only occurs after running for an hour or so. Could my voltage regulator be on the fritz? I’ve read some posts about adjusting it but haven’t opened it up yet. I’ll post a pic of it, looks original but who knows, this FJ has been around the block ( in Saudi terms that is miles of dusty, rocky desert!) .

Also wondering if it could be my ignition switch, the PO changed all the lock’s including the switch, any thoughts?

All help appreciated

 

[Hoppsalot]

So…my problem persists but I may have pinned down one or two areas to look at, looking for advice.

Last weekend after a transfer and trans oil change I took my FJ out for a drive. It ran perfectly for 100km or so and the 5km from home the same issue happened, the instrument cluster looses power and the engine will only stay running if revved, it won’t idle. I pulled over, checked some connections again and cycled the ignition a few times and randomly the power comes back, it fires up perfectly and I drove home.

When home I left it idling to see if I could replicate the fault. Whilst doing that I noticed the engine rpm’s were fluctuating, almost like the engine was coming under load. I got out my multimeter and checked the battery while it was running, when it sounded under load the meter read around 13.4v but when the revs sped up, it dropped to 12.4v or so. I assume this is the voltage regulator kicking in. I then revved the engine and the charge remained at 12.4v except for the odd occasion it would jump in to the 13’s.

The fault of losing power typically only occurs after running for an hour or so. Could my voltage regulator be on the fritz? I’ve read some posts about adjusting it but haven’t opened it up yet. I’ll post a pic of it, looks original but who knows, this FJ has been around the block ( in Saudi terms that is miles of dusty, rocky desert!) .

Also wondering if it could be my ignition switch, the PO changed all the lock’s including the switch, any thoughts?

All help appreciated

Pic of the VR

 

[Hoppsalot]

Pic of the VR

View attachment 3567679

So…my problem persists but I may have pinned down one or two areas to look at, looking for advice.

Last weekend after a transfer and trans oil change I took my FJ out for a drive. It ran perfectly for 100km or so and the 5km from home the same issue happened, the instrument cluster looses power and the engine will only stay running if revved, it won’t idle. I pulled over, checked some connections again and cycled the ignition a few times and randomly the power comes back, it fires up perfectly and I drove home.

When home I left it idling to see if I could replicate the fault. Whilst doing that I noticed the engine rpm’s were fluctuating, almost like the engine was coming under load. I got out my multimeter and checked the battery while it was running, when it sounded under load the meter read around 13.4v but when the revs sped up, it dropped to 12.4v or so. I assume this is the voltage regulator kicking in. I then revved the engine and the charge remained at 12.4v except for the odd occasion it would jump in to the 13’s.

The fault of losing power typically only occurs after running for an hour or so. Could my voltage regulator be on the fritz? I’ve read some posts about adjusting it but haven’t opened it up yet. I’ll post a pic of it, looks original but who knows, this FJ has been around the block ( in Saudi terms that is miles of dusty, rocky desert!) .

Also wondering if it could be my ignition switch, the PO changed all the lock’s including the switch, any thoughts?

All help appreciated

I should have also mentioned that I checked the fuel cutoff solenoid and traced ground wire, cleaned and retightened. I also changed the battery terminal connections.

 

[Engineer8000]

The 81+ emissions control box controls the fuel cut solenoid, at least on the US trucks. Those are prone to bad connector solder joints on the PC board. No relation to the gauge cluster though.

 

[fjc-man]

So…my problem persists but I may have pinned down one or two areas to look at, looking for advice.

Last weekend after a transfer and trans oil change I took my FJ out for a drive. It ran perfectly for 100km or so and the 5km from home the same issue happened, the instrument cluster looses power and the engine will only stay running if revved, it won’t idle. I pulled over, checked some connections again and cycled the ignition a few times and randomly the power comes back, it fires up perfectly and I drove home.

When home I left it idling to see if I could replicate the fault. Whilst doing that I noticed the engine rpm’s were fluctuating, almost like the engine was coming under load. I got out my multimeter and checked the battery while it was running, when it sounded under load the meter read around 13.4v but when the revs sped up, it dropped to 12.4v or so. I assume this is the voltage regulator kicking in. I then revved the engine and the charge remained at 12.4v except for the odd occasion it would jump in to the 13’s.

The fault of losing power typically only occurs after running for an hour or so. Could my voltage regulator be on the fritz? I’ve read some posts about adjusting it but haven’t opened it up yet. I’ll post a pic of it, looks original but who knows, this FJ has been around the block ( in Saudi terms that is miles of dusty, rocky desert!) .

Also wondering if it could be my ignition switch, the PO changed all the lock’s including the switch, any thoughts?

All help appreciated

You probably need the electrical portion of the ignition switch. It’s located on the left side of the column, opposite the ignition key cylinder. The contacts inside the switch are probably eroded and a poor conductor.

 

[Rocky_LC]

I was thinking ignition switch, too.

I think you can get the lock barrel away from the electronic part.

First thing I would do is hit it with spray electric contact cleaner and work the switch in all positions.

Disconnect your battery to save wear & tear on the starter!

Rocky

 

[fjc-man]

I was thinking ignition switch, too.

I think you can get the lock barrel away from the electronic part.

First thing I would do is hit it with spray electric contact cleaner and work the switch in all positions.

Disconnect your battery to save wear & tear on the starter!

Rocky

It’s essentially a sealed piece of plastic with the contacts inside.

 

[Hoppsalot]

Much appreciated gents, I’ll check the ignition switch and try some cleaner. If that doesn’t do it I’ll order a new switch connector.

Cheers

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hi Guys,

My Saudi spec 1982 FJ40 with a 2F has developed a strange intermittent electrical fault. It mainly occurs when the vehicle is just sitting idling, the engine will stop running and the instrument panel loses power. I can restart the engine and it will run but the idle circuit has no power so I have to keep feathering the gas pedal.

if I shut it off completely and wait a few second, turn the key back on and I see the instrument panel/ gauge cluster come to life and it fires up no issues. Happened yesterday after a 200 km trip outside of Riyadh…photo from the trip attached!

Nothing has been done to the vehicle electrically for the last 1,500Kms but the last previous owner did put a new aftermarket gauge cluster in it. I can’t see any loose wires and it’s making me think it’s something like a bad ground or maybe issues with the fuse box (which has seen better days). It doesnt make sense in my head that switching it off and back on again would fix it but it seems to work.

Any suggestions of where to start trouble shooting is appreciate?

cheers

View attachment 3549108

check battery connections, both + and - on both ends
also does your 1979 have a fusible link off the battery? it will be another wire coming off the battery +

It’s essentially a sealed piece of plastic with the contacts inside.

I was thinking ignition switch, too.

I think you can get the lock barrel away from the electronic part.

First thing I would do is hit it with spray electric contact cleaner and work the switch in all positions.

Disconnect your battery to save wear & tear on the starter!

Rocky

I'd also double check your ground connections to the chassis. Not just a visual but grab a hold and see if they will wiggle.

Greetings my friend from the Great Kingdom of the SAUDI-SPEC. Region .....



- before you spend any Dinars , and install any new parts here on you super killer kool late modle SAUDI SPEC. Region 1982 FJ40LV-KCJW ....


- first remove and safely stow your B+ battery cable off to the side ....DO THIS is a safety topic FYI !

- remove plastic black w/ yellow print ink fuse box cover , take nice close up photos of all glass tube fuse bays , you know like 1 pic of 2-3 , so we can examine all the BRASS tabs that hold secure each glass tube fuse ,

- ESPECIALLY the black plastic surrounding each side of each fuse ....

- next up , remove both 10mm hex bolts top and bottom , NOTE the Group of all NEG- Ground white wires w/ black tracer stripes and RING terminals all grouped together and stacked at TOP 10mm hex bolt , they MUST be re-secured there when done this examination ....fyi


- carefully rotate the whole fuse box around to show plain open clear view of back side wires that are FACTORY Copper Rivited to all the fuse box ports terminals bays , there are NO connector plugs like on a 1972-1978ish era fuse boxes , fyi !

- we are looking for ANY signs of melted wires , melted black plastic fuse box front and or rear , u need good bright lighting to here , take alot of photos of all angles and post here too below we can examine in detail

- next follow ALL wires coming to and leaving this fuse box say ........150mm on up and back away from fuse box , if need be peal back elec. tape as needed , we need to look for MELTED wires and the color coded tracer stripes wires looking puffy and swollen , you know out of normal looking


- this care study i outline above is SUPER% SUPER common to occur on a late modle 40 series with the RIVITED style wires directly to the CAGE like fuse box it self ....

- it WILL cause more then one of your issues above , if its perfect and GOOD still , then it is , INSTALL all new glass tube fuses with DI-ELECTRIC grease on ends and in brass spring clip retainer tabs ....

- the costs NO $ to confirm and verify , you need to make dam sure you have GOOD Solid current flow here incoming and outgoing to all your electrical devises before and further random maybe /maybe not speculation , DO NOT just throw new parts at it either , the condition of the above fuse box parts will then give you a rock solid guarantee any further wires , and electrical devises , lamp lights loads resisters etc. is a factory focus point to then trace back to its problem source and or it the devise itself too

- i have seen and approcjhed countlesss late modle 40's with this being the cause and culprit of wide range of puzzling electrical isssues , to speak plainly , this was a CRAPPT TOYOTA change from the 3 inline GREEN , Black and white inline connectors from 72-80ish

they were serviceable and repairable ,

the late RIVITS ones like both you have is NOT
\
my 1983 FJ43L-KC had one , i removed it , and installed a NEW CONNECTORS one and cut off all rivits wires one by one , crimped on the YAZAKI Detent ball locking terminals and repaired it perfectly using the older fuse box design parts 100% sweet and text FSM step by steps correct , is a super clean way to rid yourself of this problem that is NOT a IF ? but a WHEN 100% i can say for sure



- take photos post below , LOTZ of them is OK and GOOD !


matt



- THIS IS THE WAY ....
.

see below tech images ..

.
.

,

 

[Hoppsalot]

Greetings my friend from the Great Kingdom of the SAUDI-SPEC. Region .....



- before you spend any Dinars , and install any new parts here on you super killer kool late modle SAUDI SPEC. Region 1982 FJ40LV-KCJW ....


- first remove and safely stow your B+ battery cable off to the side ....DO THIS is a safety topic FYI !

- remove plastic black w/ yellow print ink fuse box cover , take nice close up photos of all glass tube fuse bays , you know like 1 pic of 2-3 , so we can examine all the BRASS tabs that hold secure each glass tube fuse ,

- ESPECIALLY the black plastic surrounding each side of each fuse ....

- next up , remove both 10mm hex bolts top and bottom , NOTE the Group of all NEG- Ground white wires w/ black tracer stripes and RING terminals all grouped together and stacked at TOP 10mm hex bolt , they MUST be re-secured there when done this examination ....fyi


- carefully rotate the whole fuse box around to show plain open clear view of back side wires that are FACTORY Copper Rivited to all the fuse box ports terminals bays , there are NO connector plugs like on a 1972-1978ish era fuse boxes , fyi !

- we are looking for ANY signs of melted wires , melted black plastic fuse box front and or rear , u need good bright lighting to here , take alot of photos of all angles and post here too below we can examine in detail

- next follow ALL wires coming to and leaving this fuse box say ........150mm on up and back away from fuse box , if need be peal back elec. tape as needed , we need to look for MELTED wires and the color coded tracer stripes wires looking puffy and swollen , you know out of normal looking


- this care study i outline above is SUPER% SUPER common to occur on a late modle 40 series with the RIVITED style wires directly to the CAGE like fuse box it self ....

- it WILL cause more then one of your issues above , if its perfect and GOOD still , then it is , INSTALL all new glass tube fuses with DI-ELECTRIC grease on ends and in brass spring clip retainer tabs ....

- the costs NO $ to confirm and verify , you need to make dam sure you have GOOD Solid current flow here incoming and outgoing to all your electrical devises before and further random maybe /maybe not speculation , DO NOT just throw new parts at it either , the condition of the above fuse box parts will then give you a rock solid guarantee any further wires , and electrical devises , lamp lights loads resisters etc. is a factory focus point to then trace back to its problem source and or it the devise itself too

- i have seen and approcjhed countlesss late modle 40's with this being the cause and culprit of wide range of puzzling electrical isssues , to speak plainly , this was a CRAPPT TOYOTA change from the 3 inline GREEN , Black and white inline connectors from 72-80ish

they were serviceable and repairable ,

the late RIVITS ones like both you have is NOT
\
my 1983 FJ43L-KC had one , i removed it , and installed a NEW CONNECTORS one and cut off all rivits wires one by one , crimped on the YAZAKI Detent ball locking terminals and repaired it perfectly using the older fuse box design parts 100% sweet and text FSM step by steps correct , is a super clean way to rid yourself of this problem that is NOT a IF ? but a WHEN 100% i can say for sure



- take photos post below , LOTZ of them is OK and GOOD !


matt



- THIS IS THE WAY ....
.
View attachment 3569662
View attachment 3569663

see below tech images ..

.
.
View attachment 3569648
View attachment 3569649
View attachment 3569650
View attachment 3569651
View attachment 3569652
View attachment 3569656


,

View attachment 3569665

That is extremely helpful, I know my fuse box looks like it’s had a rough ride, and I’ve never checked the backside. I’m out of town for two weeks but once I’m back I’ll definitely do this and post pics.

Cheers!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

That is extremely helpful, I know my fuse box looks like it’s had a rough ride, and I’ve never checked the backside. I’m out of town for two weeks but once I’m back I’ll definitely do this and post pics.

Cheers!

are you good on my more then most Technical step by steps procedures on this confirm , inspect , document pics and we verify all is good and or any red flags ?

if you are unsure on any of my suggestions above , please feel free to PM me ot just say so below ,


this later fuse box topic is murky a bit and hard some times to PIN down ,

i only know the above facts tech etc .... because i have owned a hand full of later FJ40's and 2 other FJ43's that were stepping stones to my 3rd one below ,

, " My Mistress " below ...

All had the same general issues and i remedied them all same , my new moder fuse box came from my favorite RACER X store ,,,,link here below , its updated , all copper brass and built heavy duty tough as nails too , over the older original ones ,,,,improved reproduction part he designed is simply BLISS !

- if by chance my hunch is correct on this ?

i offer the 3 connector plugs on the back .....
- your OK , then we know and we focus else ware ,......

look forward to the tech pics

matt


,

Fuse Box and Cover for '78 Land Cruiser FJ40

This is a brand new fuse box and cover for 9/'77 to 12/'78 U.S. market Land Cruiser FJ40.The cover is also used in other markets from '74 to 6/'80. Please ensure the Radio fuse is at the bottom.Authentic reproduction made by us. Direct replacement for OEM part #s 82611-60050 and 82611-60060...

www.cityracerllc.com

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