Gas tank issue (1 Viewer)

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So according to Toyota parts department, this is one of 3 OEM Toyota gas tanks in the country. Installation process starts tomorrow.

Other than blowing some air into it to get any dust out, anything else that I should do before installation?

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I want to say I masked mine and shot it with some semi gloss rust oleum. I’m not sure what comes on it- might just be primer?
 
Just a thought on the old one- when I got mine out of mothballs (16yrs) I was unable to get anything through the pickup line, I came to the conclusion it was clogged with varnish. After limping along by sucking the gas from the return line, I eventually bought a new one to replace it. Then when I swapped to an LS I wanted a in-tank pump, I couldn’t bring myself to cut a hole in a basically brand new tank, so out came the old one.
I guess what I’m trying to say is don’t just cut that old tank up. The pickup tube is irrelevant if you switch to fuel injection and go with an in tank pump. After I cut a hole in mine, I was surprised to see how clean it was inside. And it’s been fine for the last two years and I have a perfect spare for when it does start leaking.

*****one last caution- there’s a decent amount of hazard involved with cutting a tank. Do your research!
 
So according to Toyota parts department, this is one of 3 OEM Toyota gas tanks in the country. Installation process starts tomorrow.

Other than blowing some air into it to get any dust out, anything else that I should do before installation?

View attachment 3525902


TOYOTA uses that brown water proof tape like wrap on ALL openings , the smaller tubes and VENT ports will have rubber caps or more tape...


the inside of any toyota oem tank is always SPOTLESS , like pur virgin-metallurgy inside , i would NOT introduce ANYTING except fresh clean good hi-test / hi-octane gasoline , also i personally would first pour in a FULL qt. of SeaFoam , the red and white metal can , it will coat and lube the walls of that sparky new 73100- you have there , and more important flush any resident-residue-evil out of the lines after the new sparky tank .....



- do i understand you correctly here brother ?

- are you actually gonna , take a instrument of the ultimate Vintage Land Cruiser HELL -NO , and splay that prefect example of the KYOSAN-WAY , open in hopes to then shimmy-in a flange and a in-tank non-oem Toyota fuel pump of some sort ?

- how come a external electric pump or a OEM KYOSAN mechanical pump will not achieve your Petrol Pumping Protocol here ?
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- do i understand you correctly here brother ?

- are you actually gonna , take a instrument of the ultimate Vintage Land Cruiser HELL -NO , and splay that prefect example of the KYOSAN-WAY , open in hopes to then shimmy-in a flange and a in-tank non-oem Toyota fuel pump of some sort ?

- how come a external electric pump or a OEM KYOSAN mechanical pump will not achieve your Petrol Pumping Protocol here ? View attachment 3526210


,
If this question is pointed to me- Yes, but only if my original tank ever rusts out. For my setup an in-tank is my preferred option (as stated above I’m well past stock and driving a frankencruiser). They run cooler and quieter. Thus the reason most if not all car manufacturers are using in tank pumps. I’m also banking on the oem(gm) quality being better than the aftermarket frame mounted pumps.
 
If this question is pointed to me- Yes, but only if my original tank ever rusts out. For my setup an in-tank is my preferred option (as stated above I’m well past stock and driving a frankencruiser). They run cooler and quieter. Thus the reason most if not all car manufacturers are using in tank pumps. I’m also banking on the oem(gm) quality being better than the aftermarket frame mounted pumps.

So finally got out to attempt to clear the fuel supply line. I got a long wire brush and put it down the supply tube, it stopped at 15.75 inches. Then I took another one, cut the ring off and attached to my drill, same result. Then took the air compressor and shot air into the fuel supply line, nothing out the other holes. Took the air compressor and shot into the tank at the drain screw, no air out the fuel supply line.

Any other suggests or am i stuck buying a 600+ new tank?


NO archie , my friend , :)
i quoted the thread starter ,,,,


- i am puzzled at the WHY , here after the NEW OEM tank is finally sourced ?


is this because @69FJ40NJ has this under the hood : ? : 1969 FJ40, SBC 350,


if a true EFI pump , in a under seat FJ40 tank is actually needed , ?

then there is only one path to choose .......

if you choose a DENSO made in japan pump for a toyota application , you now get all the perks of the toyota super nice flange rubber gasket , some toyota EFI pump mounts are a float sender for fuel level TOO !


- they have shallow ones

- i know a few of the SNIPER originators , and the ones continuing to evolve that topic keep it all TOYOTA DENSO ,.,,,,


- that formula and school of thought is a safe bet

- i have seen the aftermarket toyota weld in trim ring on a few sites too ....

- the BIG MUST do factor here is a OEM Factory correct one-way vented inward only filler neck cap ....

-



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Update: 01-27-24. The fuel supply connector was leaking, so after a bunch of trips to a bunch of auto stores, and a few orders from Amazon, with no luck, I found a connector that worked. FYI: for a 69 OEM gas tank fuel supply connector, use a harbor freight air hose nozzle connector, fits perfect and good to go so far.
So today I went out for a quick run around the neighborhood and decided to go and get gas. Of the way home I keep looked and the fuel supply connector, all good. I happen to look at the fuel neck and gas was seeping out of the neck to tank seam in two places. This is a new tank and was a PIA to get.

Question, can I use JB Weld epoxy around the seam and does it get hot when mixed and activated? Or is there a better way to seal it with 3/4 tank of gas?

Thanks for the help!

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There is gas tank epoxy that will work.

Glue for now will work. A life of the tank repair should be welded IMHO. Could be a DIY but having a real pro do it ensures success.

I did a seeping fitting on my aux tank behind the axle with some type of mixed gas tank putty, lasted like 30 plus years. Tank is off for now, has other issues but that fitting still looked good.
 
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