Garage height

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Joined
Oct 5, 2012
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what would be the garage height you would feel comfortable with without having to leave 12’ of clearance?
 
12' seems excessive. I agree that 6" is good. You don't get to choose in a parking garage, though.
 
12' seems excessive. I agree that 6" is good. You don't get to choose in a parking garage, though.
Was thinking on 7’ so will fit with the roof rack, suspension lift, etc... :)
Hope it will be enough
 
I have 8 foot doors which allows me to drive in with an RTT attached.

Is your specific question with a 200 series with a lift how tall does it get?

Or are you building a garage and looking for some data on how tall to make it?

There are two heights. First is the door clearance which is the key to getting your vehicles in and out. Second is wall height which is not as crucial but decided what room for storage above your vehicle there is

Some people with 7 foot doors looking at the inside of their garage with at least 9 ft ceilings can modify their door height to 8 foot doors.
 
I have 8 foot doors which allows me to drive in with an RTT attached.

Is your specific question with a 200 series with a lift how tall does it get?

Or are you building a garage and looking for some data on how tall to make it?

There are two heights. First is the door clearance which is the key to getting your vehicles in and out. Second is wall height which is not as crucial but decided what room for storage above your vehicle there is

Some people with 7 foot doors looking at the inside of their garage with at least 9 ft ceilings can modify their door height to 8 foot doors.

Thanks. It’s for a house we are planning to build in the future. Just working on the layouts/architecture now and the garage will be underground underneath the house.... so the question was in general as hate to leave the car parked outside the night before a trip if the roof rack is loaded...

Now I have a 200, 40 and 62 series but none of them are lifted much... and hope to have more LCs in the future so want to be sure I will be comfortable with the clearance I get... of course the higher the garage ceiling the more expensive the construction will be...

Think 7.5-8’ is the max I could go but at a cost and some fight with the architect hehe
 
If you're building, go as high as you can within reason. You will never wish for a lower garage door in the future. 8' should be plenty, but I personally would like my garage ceiling to be as tall as possible so I could open up my Tacoma Habitat inside the garage which is not possible right now.

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I'd go with 8'2 as a max in case you end up lifted + taller tires + roof rack + tent.
 
I have 7' doors and a stock height 200. There's only about 4" to spare above the factory roof rack. So I will have to decide between a mild lift or a roof rack, but I can't do both. I have almost 11' of height inside, except where the electric door openers are hanging. The doors are on the gable end of the garage, so I guess I could raise them, but it would be a big project.

Go with bigger doors than 7'.
 
I am actually building a 20x24 ft garage. Having 8ft doors and 9 ft ceilings. My existing garage has 10-12 foot ceilings, but the door determines what you can get in there. The higher foot ceilings allow me to store things from the roof like my RTT that I lower down when needed and the 8 ft door allows me to drive my built cruiser with an RTT on top out
IMG_0331.JPG


At a minimum go 8 foot doors. I am going with only 9 ft walls in the new 2 car garage as I will use it to store my camper (taller than my truck) and leave the ceiling storage to the main garage

Hopefully this picture gives you a perspective you are looking for

With the RTT I have an inch to spare. Thinking if I go bigger on the lift I may need to air down to drive in/out with the RTT. Cole's advise on 8'2" is good but that isnt really standard
 
I designed my workshop in the late '90's with 9'x9' doors and just shy of 11' ceiling height. I really wish I had gone to 12' because that would have allowed a vehicle lift. In the late '90's, the internet wasn't quite so established and I figured a vehicle lift was out of the question in a personal shop. Since then, I've designed (I'm an Architect) a few workshops and garages for others ( :( ) that incorporated lifts…
 
You mention it’s underground. Keep that in mind if you enter the garage on a sloped driveway, the wheelbase can cause the vehicle to measure taller over the threshold that it actually measures on flat ground.
 
As has been said go as high as you can afford and is feasible.

IMO a garage can never be to big.
 
Also, remember that most garage doors have a bit of “sag” into the opening. And then you have the opener, track, etc etc.
depending upon site constraints, I would really try and fight for an 8’ finished opening.
 
I have 7' doors and a stock height 200. There's only about 4" to spare above the factory roof rack. So I will have to decide between a mild lift or a roof rack, but I can't do both. I have almost 11' of height inside, except where the electric door openers are hanging. The doors are on the gable end of the garage, so I guess I could raise them, but it would be a big project.

Go with bigger doors than 7'.

Agree. We have 7' doors. Our FJ40 on 33's, a 1" body lift, and mild shackle lift has about 1" of clearance between garage door and the roll cage.

We have around 13' ceilings. If we had plans to live here forever, I would put in:

At least 1 lift, a 9' roll up door, and a jackshaft garage door opener.
 
Some people with 7 foot doors looking at the inside of their garage with at least 9 ft ceilings can modify their door height to 8 foot doors.

How do I modify my 7” garage door to get an extra foot? I will need that in the future.
My LX470 (2007) barely fits through the door with a rhino rack (pioneer rack) and ski racks (without lowering the suspension).
Thanks, Dorian
 
How do I modify my 7” garage door to get an extra foot? I will need that in the future.
My LX470 (2007) barely fits through the door with a rhino rack (pioneer rack) and ski racks (without lowering the suspension).
Thanks, Dorian

First you need a professional. Essentially it comes down to how much room you have to the ceiling. Is there room to move the entrance and door rails up a foot? Then they have to cut into your door frame and extend it
 
Is there room to move the entrance and door rails up a foot? Then they have to cut into your door frame and extend it

And figure in that you need space for the header over the door to support what's above the door.
 

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