Gap Between Axel and Spindle

[nsaladin]

Just looked under the rig and saw this gap between the axel and spindle. I was planning on doing wheel bearings/spindle bearing/drive flange. What would cause this gap on one side and not the other? Just want to make sure I order all the correct parts so I don’t have to pay shipping twice from cruiserteq

 

[Dirt J]

My guess is c-clip on outer stub end of CV axle came off.

 

[nsaladin]

My guess is c-clip on outer stub end of CV axle came off.

You’re right, just pulled the dust cap and the C clip was just sitting stuck to the end of the stub with grease. What could of caused this?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Incorrect thickness of c-clip used last time someone was in there or play and wear on the axle end and the groove. The fact that you didn't hear grinding of the CV end and the flange splines says you're likely in for both new.

 

[nsaladin]

Incorrect thickness of c-clip used last time someone was in there or play and wear on the axle end and the groove. The fact that you didn't hear grinding of the CV end and the flange splines says you're likely in for both new.

Okay. How about the this play? Other side is on the ground with passenger side in the air. In park. Both sides have the same amount of play.

 

[badlander]

That is gear lash in the diff. Nothing to be concerned about. It is the spline lash you want to inspect. With both wheels on the ground look under the truck where the axle goes into the back of the knuckle while a trusted helper shifts it into drive and reverse. You will see the play, if any. It should be minimal. You can make marks on axle and knuckle to make it easier to see actual movement. Check this and report back.

 

[nsaladin]

That is gear lash in the diff. Nothing to be concerned about. It is the spline lash you want to inspect. With both wheels on the ground look under the truck where the axle goes into the back of the knuckle while a trusted helper shifts it into drive and reverse. You will see the play, if any. It should be minimal. You can make marks on axle and knuckle to make it easier to see actual movement. Check this and report back.

 

[badlander]

I would say that is about normal. Your splines are probably fine. How is the condition of the circlip groove? It should have clean sharp edges with no burrs on the outer side to keep the clip in place.
Do you know how to pull the axle out to measure, select and fit a new clip?

 

[2001LC]

Once a snap ring pops off. New FDS is typically needed.

It's typically a case, where snap ring was reused. Which installing and removing snap rings, expands ID more each time and weakens clamping force. This result in loose grip around axle, so less depth of axles groove is captured. End result, is rounding out of what was, a sharp 90 degree snap ring retaining groove in axle end.

For a temp field fix. Squeeze snap to a smaller ID. One could also, file the groove to a sharp 90 degree. But this result, weak snap ring clamping force and in a wide gap. One so wide, even the thickest snap ring (2.8mm) can't compensate for. So this is just to get you home.

Additionally:
Some pound (in and out) usually has result in extra wear of axle brass bushing. Also, with age and lack of lubing every 30K miles. Brass has worn thin. So doesn't hurt to replace it, at least check it. Old under lube Needle bearings, are also best replaced at same time as new FDS installed. They seat nicely together.

While into steering knuckle. Replace that back seal.

New FDS, new Diff side seals is recommended. So they seat together. We don't want to have to go back in for a frt diff side leak.

As for the wheel hub. Its not affect by FDS issues, typically. But just the same, recondition while in there. Which is to say repack wheel bearings, or replace if needed. Which hub flange may or may not need replace. But I am big on, new hub flanges with new OEM FDS. Which yields, zero backlash (rotational play)

Do not reuses seals.
Exception, is the large ~$80 seal bolted on brake dust shield. If it's rubber seal good, you can reuse. It is not a water tight seal.

Do not reuse:
Lock washer.
Snap rings (either inner or outer)
Grease caps.

Use puller to pop off ball joints from knuckle. Do not get out the BFH and pound on steering knuckle, to pop ball joints. Using a BFH to beat off ball joints, all to often results in damage to surface ball joint boot mates to. Also, one misguided blow and ball is doomed!