Artie. I installed the 4 point mounts with balls instead of the 2 point 67designs and was able to get 3 of the balls installed across the front of the panel. I had to drill some extra holes but feel like it was worth it. It’s definitely overkill but it’s not something you want to do twice. I figured three 67 balls was more than I would need I typically only find myself using two of them at a time but nice to have the third for something small. I live the look and the durability. Only thing I would do different is would have paid for some black powder coated hardware. I used stainless steel and it looks fine but using matched screws would have been the cherry on top.
Gamiviti 200 series products & solutions
- Thread starter nakman
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I have the 67 system in my Ram and love it.
Same as you, I questioned those triangular mounts and ended up using the rail
I use a Garmin 276CX GPS which is decent size and kind of heavy.
It’s solid and don’t move, but likely the limit of what I would mount on that size ball/arm combo without a stronger base
I used a ton of various ram/67 style combos over the years in various trucks and always find all the flex comes from the base/mount and not the arms/balls
It’s a little tricky to find the right balance
Something like this would disperse the weight the best and likely he most stable:
I took your recommendation and ordered the 4 point mounting plate with black mounting hardware to run instead of the 2 point design. While waiting on the 4 point mounts I was test fitting with the 2 point mounts and it looks like I may need to drill some clearance holes into the square plastic OEM piece. Was this your findings as well or is there enough space between the 2 for some nuts?
I am pretty sure I drilled through the plastic to make it easier to get a socket on the nut on the bottom. It was over two years ago and I can’t remember for certain. Old man brain is real 
. I haven’t had any issues and since installation it has lived up there and when combined with the USB A and C combo chargers 2 total I have plenty of power for my iPad mini to navigate. As well as my magnetic mic holder for me midland radio. I usually keep my garmin mini on the a pillar with another 67 designs mount for the a pillar (think it’s meant for tundra) but it is the same bolt size and works great. I find I like to grab the garmin mini when I hike so it’s nice having it on the a pillar so I don’t have to get in the rig when I go grab it and add it to my hiking pack. Here are some photos. I no longer use the pro clip. I had it before the gamiviti so I was using both and then the plastic on the pro clip broke. My wife would only use one hand instead of two when putting her phone in. Thing isn’t as stout as the gamiviti. Not even close. Good luck!
. I haven’t had any issues and since installation it has lived up there and when combined with the USB A and C combo chargers 2 total I have plenty of power for my iPad mini to navigate. As well as my magnetic mic holder for me midland radio. I usually keep my garmin mini on the a pillar with another 67 designs mount for the a pillar (think it’s meant for tundra) but it is the same bolt size and works great. I find I like to grab the garmin mini when I hike so it’s nice having it on the a pillar so I don’t have to get in the rig when I go grab it and add it to my hiking pack. Here are some photos. I no longer use the pro clip. I had it before the gamiviti so I was using both and then the plastic on the pro clip broke. My wife would only use one hand instead of two when putting her phone in. Thing isn’t as stout as the gamiviti. Not even close. Good luck!
Finishing up my accessory mount install, decided to powder coat it with textured black. I think it came out great.
Currently, I’m taking advantage of the 2 USB’s that the EC off-road CarPlay module has but I’m not sure that was the best idea because it seems like it wants to connect to the iPhone I’m using for obd gauges… I may need to tweak some things or just run traditional power. Once it’s wrapped up and I’m in good lighting I’ll post another picture with the rest of the mounting from 67 Designs.
Currently, I’m taking advantage of the 2 USB’s that the EC off-road CarPlay module has but I’m not sure that was the best idea because it seems like it wants to connect to the iPhone I’m using for obd gauges… I may need to tweak some things or just run traditional power. Once it’s wrapped up and I’m in good lighting I’ll post another picture with the rest of the mounting from 67 Designs.
That looks familiar 
I used 2 of the QC 4.0 Plugs from powerwerx in the ARB socket holders
powerwerx.com
I used 2 of the QC 4.0 Plugs from powerwerx in the ARB socket holders
Powerwerx Panel Mount Dual USB Type-C QC4.0 Fast Device Charger
High output dual USB Type-C QC4.0 charger. Powerful USB Type-C is capable of 45W output on both ports (90W total). Support for multiple fast charging protocols. Fits standard 1-1/8" diameter hole. Ideal for charging smartphones, tablets, and laptops.
powerwerx.com
That looks great. Should be an order option, would gladly pay to not have to source powder coating.
How's the glare?
I have not left the garage yet so I can’t say for sure but under my fairly bright shop lights it did not reflect at all. I’ll report back.
The powerwerx were on my short list but since I had the USB’s from the carplay unit just sitting there I went with some Blue Sea USB’s and cut them down to the length I needed. If the CarPlay USB’s end up giving me trouble I’ll go the powerwerx route.That looks familiar
Powerwerx Panel Mount Dual USB Type-C QC4.0 Fast Device Charger
High output dual USB Type-C QC4.0 charger. Powerful USB Type-C is capable of 45W output on both ports (90W total). Support for multiple fast charging protocols. Fits standard 1-1/8" diameter hole. Ideal for charging smartphones, tablets, and laptops.
I’m a couple drives in with this set up and it’s great. The textured powder coating cuts glair to zero and blends in with the dash very well.
My main complaint is with the charging provided by the EC off-road CarPlay device. I had thought that the 2 USB’s it provides would charge without issue but they charge like crap and sometimes not at all. I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong or what but they are more complicated than plug and charge. Once it decides to not charge no plugging and unplugging will change its mind. I’ll either reach out to them to see what I’m missing or just wire power direct and skip the EC off-road device all together. I should have tested this before hand so as to not have to rebend the tabs on the Gamiviti mount. I either keep the Blue sea USB A plug or switch to the better dual USB C from powerwerx.
My main complaint is with the charging provided by the EC off-road CarPlay device. I had thought that the 2 USB’s it provides would charge without issue but they charge like crap and sometimes not at all. I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong or what but they are more complicated than plug and charge. Once it decides to not charge no plugging and unplugging will change its mind. I’ll either reach out to them to see what I’m missing or just wire power direct and skip the EC off-road device all together. I should have tested this before hand so as to not have to rebend the tabs on the Gamiviti mount. I either keep the Blue sea USB A plug or switch to the better dual USB C from powerwerx.
Are your phones on some sort of software power management? I know my phone has some settings to try to keep the battery health higher in the long term.
Looks great! Mine is wired direct and has been great. I used the Amazon flat charging ports that were on the Gamiviti website. They have worked great. They are wired direct with a a quick disconnected in case I need to swap out down the road. Here is the link.
Amazon link not sure same brand. Looks same as I have though.
2PCS 12V/24V RV USB Outlet with Cap, PD3.0 18W Type-C & QC3.0 18W USB-A Port Panel Mount Surface Automotive Car USB Socket Quick Charger Power Adapter for RV Marine Boat Bus ATV Motorcycle Truck Golf https://a.co/d/1p0Nvue
Amazon link not sure same brand. Looks same as I have though.
2PCS 12V/24V RV USB Outlet with Cap, PD3.0 18W Type-C & QC3.0 18W USB-A Port Panel Mount Surface Automotive Car USB Socket Quick Charger Power Adapter for RV Marine Boat Bus ATV Motorcycle Truck Golf https://a.co/d/1p0Nvue
Not that I’m aware of, we run iPhones and they charge normally in all the other USB’s we’ve added in the vehicle.
Where did you pull power? I’ve seen a few different options on this thread. I’m ok with running dedicated from battery but was really hoping for the path of least resistance and it doesn’t appear to be using the EC off-road USB’s and I don’t think I can remove my existing plugs without removing the gamiviti mount from the plastic cruiser mount.
Prying the tabs back straight on the gamiviti mount is something I’d like to avoid as well, I’m not sure how they will hold up to the back and forth bending. I’ve only bend them down once.
The EC Off-road USBs are at best going to probably only work at 2.5w (500ma@5v). Modern phones need a lot more power than that, or at least you are going to want more power for any decent charge rate. You really want a modern USB output that can do PD (usb-c) and/or a USB A port that will do negotiation to higher voltages. Most phones will work with these now.
These can charge phones usually at 10-30w. New iPhones/iPads use PD, so that’s the way I would go. A USB A with QC would cover all your other possible needs.
Slee did mine and pulled the power from the factory head unit. I drilled the holes for my 67designs ball mounts. Exact same as you have and then just reattached the quick connect they had already installed. I also had to rebend those tabs to add the 67 designs mounts but think those tabs are okay for few bends without breaking.
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ftr, you can get away with bending the tabs a few times... I've certainly done this and have never broken one. And presuming some of your accessories are mounted through the plastic panel below, there's a ton of redundancy there.
Also I prefer to pull power from a battery, as seen in the videos. I know it's more work, but I like having all "my" stuff completely isolated from factory wiring, just in case there's a future issue with the nav or something I know I didn't cause it. having it always hot is an added bonus, IMO.
Great to see all these setups!
Also I prefer to pull power from a battery, as seen in the videos. I know it's more work, but I like having all "my" stuff completely isolated from factory wiring, just in case there's a future issue with the nav or something I know I didn't cause it. having it always hot is an added bonus, IMO.
Great to see all these setups!
I went with a y into the cig power circuit. Drawback this circuit is fused pretty low. Plus, this circuit is an easy fish away and didn’t require much to get too.
I also wanted it switched. I know most won’t.
I also wanted it switched. I know most won’t.
I’m
I’ll only be charging phones and have never plugged anything into that cigarette adapter so this may be my best easy option. That entire wireless charging area is a complete waste of space for us anyway, it holds a fat wad of $1’s for trail head parking and emergency pole dancing tips…. I’m kidding about that last part, I’m no where near as fun or wild as that anymore.
I’ll rewatch the videos and see about this. I would also prefer a isolated solution but seeing as how I never use the cigarette power I am tempted to do this if the firewall is too involved.ftr, you can get away with bending the tabs a few times... I've certainly done this and have never broken one. And presuming some of your accessories are mounted through the plastic panel below, there's a ton of redundancy there.
Also I prefer to pull power from a battery, as seen in the videos. I know it's more work, but I like having all "my" stuff completely isolated from factory wiring, just in case there's a future issue with the nav or something I know I didn't cause it. having it always hot is an added bonus, IMO.
Great to see all these setups!
