Gamivit Power seat gear install (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

NKP Garage

Forever Learning
SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Threads
67
Messages
2,243
Location
Texas
Website
www.youtube.com
Its been probably 8yrs since I've done one of these seat gear repair/installs. Took me a few minutes to remember how everything went together. Figured I'd video the process incase anyone else finds it useful to have a visual.

The replacement gears and caps are from Gamiviti here: seat parts — Gamiviti - http://www.gamiviti.com/seatparts


Video walkthrough of the install process here:
 
Bringing this thread up. I just got done replacing the gears and cap and my seat still doesn't work. I put the seat back in and plugged it in to verify it worked before boiling it down. It does the same thing that it did before all the work. The inner gear the one that goes through the motor side turns and the one on the other side doesn't. As soon as I hit the switch the new cap popped out. What did I do wrong?
 
Update I took it back apart and put it back together and it worked. I'm not sure why it didn't work the first time.
 
The number one cause of what you mentioned above is the rails not being even. If one is further out than the other the seat may “walk” and wear out the replaced gear or not move at all.
I think you taking it apart a second time corrected this event and hence why it worked.
 
Bringing this thread up. I just got done replacing the gears and cap and my seat still doesn't work. I put the seat back in and plugged it in to verify it worked before boiling it down. It does the same thing that it did before all the work. The inner gear the one that goes through the motor side turns and the one on the other side doesn't. As soon as I hit the switch the new cap popped out. What did I do wrong?
That cap popping out is usually what leads to the gear stripping in the first place. On a couple of 80's where I had trouble keeping it in I had luck with some thread locker on the threads of the cap and then screwing it back in. But if you're wanting to bullet proof it even more, Solvefunction makes a metal retainer that goes over the cap to keep it from backing out: Land Cruiser 80 LX450 Seat Gear Cap Guard - https://solvefunction.com/shop/ols/products/land-cruiser-80-seat-gear-cap-guard
 
That cap popping out is usually what leads to the gear stripping in the first place. On a couple of 80's where I had trouble keeping it in I had luck with some thread locker on the threads of the cap and then screwing it back in. But if you're wanting to bullet proof it even more, Solvefunction makes a metal retainer that goes over the cap to keep it from backing out: Land Cruiser 80 LX450 Seat Gear Cap Guard - https://solvefunction.com/shop/ols/products/land-cruiser-80-seat-gear-cap-guard
Thanks for the info and link. Definitely ordering 2 of these brackets!
 
Thanks for the info and link. Definitely ordering 2 of these brackets!
I ordered a pair as well for the 80 I'm currently restoring. Seems like a good option so you don't have to worry about it again.
 
That cap popping out is usually what leads to the gear stripping in the first place. On a couple of 80's where I had trouble keeping it in I had luck with some thread locker on the threads of the cap and then screwing it back in. But if you're wanting to bullet proof it even more, Solvefunction makes a metal retainer that goes over the cap to keep it from backing out: Land Cruiser 80 LX450 Seat Gear Cap Guard - https://solvefunction.com/shop/ols/products/land-cruiser-80-seat-gear-cap-guard
I'd say the metal retainers are required in 2022. Zero thread left where the caps went in on mine. Secured the caps with zip ties temporarily and installed the retainers with the seats in the car.
 
I ordered 2 of these brackets. Now I'm just wondering if I can get the DS bracket on without removing the seat again.
 
I ordered 2 of these brackets. Now I'm just wondering if I can get the DS bracket on without removing the seat again.
No need to unbolt the seats. DS is the easier one to get to, just remove the front plastic facia and pop out the 5mm hex bolts that hold in the bracket. Throw it on with the shim, put back the hex bolts, screw on the facia and you're done. PS is the same except the cap is facing the trans tunnel. Slightly less room but still no issue.
 
It’d be awesome if someone could sell the gears for cheaper. I imagine making the plans and 3d printing them can’t be too awful.
Cheaper than $27 for the cap and the gear to repair 1 seat? Personally I'm happy to pay a land cruiser community member that and more for taking the time to perfect not only the design replication, but also the materials used. Now if it was like $150 or something like that, I might agree with you, but for $27, it's a drop in the bucket.
 
The number one cause of what you mentioned above is the rails not being even. If one is further out than the other the seat may “walk” and wear out the replaced gear or not move at all.
I think you taking it apart a second time corrected this event and hence why it worked.
From me designing my seat brackets I've found that there is 2 distinct weldng positions on the frame rails. It has to do with the position of the 2 hole block that the following nut for the lead screw that moves the seat back and fourth. If you look at my seat kit you will see that the area where my bracket bolts to that has elongated holes to accommodate the position differences.

This came about when a customer came to me to install my seat brackets and mentioned that the driver's seat was always a problem moving. During the install only one side would align and bolt into place. After measuring things one block was out of position.

If you have your seat out for any reason I would compare the block's position by measuring from the front of the rail and the leading edge of the blocks and check that both sides are the same.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom