NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Pretty sure, that rubber cover came off the factory line. I bought one used and then when trying to install it and found what a wench it was to put on, I left it in my parts box!
Builds g-man's land cruiser story
- Thread starter g-man
- Start date
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Very interesting to see the caramel sorta crusty layer on your rocker arms. And now that you mention the oil pump and the strange sludge you’d found, all the signs are coming clear to the cracks that you’ve now found. Plus the totally block PCV pipe. Totally sucks.
Very awesome that you found Gary and a good head from him. I met him years back I think at an event up north. He’s a good NE contact for parts as is Kina who is up in NH.
Very awesome that you found Gary and a good head from him. I met him years back I think at an event up north. He’s a good NE contact for parts as is Kina who is up in NH.
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g-man
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #83
interestingly my oil pressure gauge used to read in the middle. After I cleaned the sludge off the pick up screen it went up closer to 2/3 of the gauge. Not sure what rocker arms your looking at Fel, @NeverGiveUpYota, My rockers were black with sludge just like the top of the head. I cleaned them up good. I washed them in gasoline 2x. then when the big stuff was gone, I pulled the Jesus clip off the front and keeping everything in order took each piece off and cleaned it and blew out the passages with compressed air. I also blew out the oil holes in the (edit) rocker arm shaft. There are 2 types of rockers (A and B)
and they slant differently on their centers. Number 4 support has a oil hole going up the center and needs to be put back on the head in the same position. Here:
There are oil holes in the rockers and holes at the inner sides of the supports. The two large bolts that secure supports 2 and 5 to the head have to be lined up with indentations scalloped out in the rocker tube. I believe this design is done so that when everything goes back on the tube the oil holes in the rockers and the supports will line up with the oil holes in the tube. I took an opened paper clip to clean out the holes in the rockers that is behind the adjusting nut. Can't quite get air on that hole good enough to blow it out unless you take the adjustment nuts off or like me pre cleaned it a bit with push of a wire.
I did check for slop in the rockers by trying to wiggle them front to back like this.
and they slant differently on their centers. Number 4 support has a oil hole going up the center and needs to be put back on the head in the same position. Here:
There are oil holes in the rockers and holes at the inner sides of the supports. The two large bolts that secure supports 2 and 5 to the head have to be lined up with indentations scalloped out in the rocker tube. I believe this design is done so that when everything goes back on the tube the oil holes in the rockers and the supports will line up with the oil holes in the tube. I took an opened paper clip to clean out the holes in the rockers that is behind the adjusting nut. Can't quite get air on that hole good enough to blow it out unless you take the adjustment nuts off or like me pre cleaned it a bit with push of a wire.
I did check for slop in the rockers by trying to wiggle them front to back like this.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I just meant the top of the head... my mistake saying rocker arms.
g-man
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #88
Picking up the head tomorrow. I'm excited and a bit nervous. I found the torque specs for the intake/exhaust bolts/nuts in the FSM but no mention of a torque sequence. Any ideas? Also thought I would coat the cylinder walls with some oil and pour some oil on the rocker assembly before start up. I did see torque specs and sequences for the rocker assembly and for the head bolts. As well as the thermostat. I'll have to move the water pipe and the temp sensor over to the new head. I hope they are not seized up. Luckily the only carnage that happened during dis-assembly was that I wrung the last pipe on the air manifold trying to turn the nut loose from the air injector. Damn lift hook in the way.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Absolutely there’s a torque sequence. I know for sure because you know I’ve done it. Here’s the page. Fig 3-52.
Don't forget to apply oil the bolts as well.
The oil is for the threads. See fig 3-51. A good bolt torque chart will show different torque ratings between oiled or dry for certain metals.
Oiling keeps the threads from galling to achieve the correct torque without damage.
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g-man
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #94
head is back on. Stole the idea of a 2x4 board to slide the head in from @joebattle1. I set the board on top of the pcv pipe that comes off the side cover. and rested the other end on the radiator support wall to the passenger side of the radiator. Rockers and push rods back on. Maybe 6 passes on the torque sequences. Cold valve adjustment in the morning, then intake/exhaust will get buttoned up, thermostat will go back, fuel line, valve cover and other small odds and ends.
The water pipe was a mother to break loose but not as bad as the adapter that goes in the head for the temp sensor. I had to put heat on that one and still couldn't break it loose with two wrenches locked together. Finally after 10 min of map gas I slid a pipe over the wrench and it broke loose.
I'm gonna plug the air holes and go back to my SOR smog delete pulley.
I did the galley plug fix but I swear my head guy went in way to far with the tap. I sunk a 1/2 long 5/16" set screw and it kept going. I thought it was going to come out through the head bolt hole. It finally tightened up but I was able to insert 3/4 of another 1/2" long set screw in behind it. It hangs out maybe 2 threads.
Head bolts when in fine after a little wiggle of the head to get it lined up with the holes in the gasket. Numbering them on the heads with silver sharpie not only helps to get the right bolt back in the right hole but also to easily tell where you are when torquing in sequence.
The water pipe was a mother to break loose but not as bad as the adapter that goes in the head for the temp sensor. I had to put heat on that one and still couldn't break it loose with two wrenches locked together. Finally after 10 min of map gas I slid a pipe over the wrench and it broke loose.
I'm gonna plug the air holes and go back to my SOR smog delete pulley.
I did the galley plug fix but I swear my head guy went in way to far with the tap. I sunk a 1/2 long 5/16" set screw and it kept going. I thought it was going to come out through the head bolt hole. It finally tightened up but I was able to insert 3/4 of another 1/2" long set screw in behind it. It hangs out maybe 2 threads.
Head bolts when in fine after a little wiggle of the head to get it lined up with the holes in the gasket. Numbering them on the heads with silver sharpie not only helps to get the right bolt back in the right hole but also to easily tell where you are when torquing in sequence.
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Hey, I may have missed it but they did check the flatness of the block side right? It checked out I gather? I’m wagering on my truck having some subtle signs that my block is cracked, head is and or head gasket is working up to failure. Not jumping the gun till I have definitive results from a leak down but I’m not feeling good.
g-man
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #97
head was shaved for flatness. Valves cleaned up and valve seats. He checked the guides too. and put new valve stem seals. New freeze plugs.
Success today. Started up. Ran good. Few small coolant leaks quickly corrected. Sounds good. No ticks or clacking or anything odd sounding from the head. Got the thermostat to open and added more coolant. With the t-stat gasket corrected the Temp gauge is now working right.
Put the smog pump delete pulley in. Plugged the air manifold holes in the head.
Success today. Started up. Ran good. Few small coolant leaks quickly corrected. Sounds good. No ticks or clacking or anything odd sounding from the head. Got the thermostat to open and added more coolant. With the t-stat gasket corrected the Temp gauge is now working right.
Put the smog pump delete pulley in. Plugged the air manifold holes in the head.
g-man
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #99
Next chance I get I will do a "hot" valve adjustment and re-check the torque on the heads and exhaust. Make sure the set screws are tight in the air injector holes. Hopefully this will resolve the issue with losing coolant. I will change my oil too as soon as I'm able.
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