Builds g-man's land cruiser story

[g-man]

Waiting for Georg's Sag pump adapter kit. Got the power steering pump ordered at Autozone and bought the cap at Advance today. Then came home and took the old toyota pump out. The bolt behind the pump that holds the pump to the bracket was froze in there good and on top of that the nut was feeling like it wanted to round. This because I'm sure I goobered it up last time I changed pumps. No way to get anything but an open wrench on it. The space between the front of the exhaust manifold and the bolt head is like 1/4 inch or less. I really needed a narrow headed 6 point 14mm box wrench on it. In the end I just unbolted the bracket from the motor and took the bracket and pump out together. Once away from the exhaust manifold I put it in the vise with the bolt in question face up. Breaker bar and a 6 point socket made short work of it.

 

[g-man]

Got the saginaw pump today. did some cutting and grinding on the mount. While I wait for Georg's kit to arrive I'm still thinking about the alternator being the possible culprit. If you remember after working on the head the alt. fan started spinning loose and making a racket. When I couldn't get the pulley and the alt. fan to snug up on the shoulder of the rotor I put a flathead inside the housing to hold the rotor and tighten the nut. After this the alt fan was still loose. Then I decided to put a washer behind the alt. fan to help get things tight. This worked but I got to thinking that possibly that little gap of space between the housing and the fan (edit) caused by the new washer, could be causing my vibrations. So today I took the alternator off the truck. I used an impact wrench but even holding the pulley with a big set of channel locks the rotor spun with the nut. So I decided to remove the back like the FSM says. I did but there are 2 small electric motor brushes in the back that pop out and have springs under them. I'll get to that in a minute. I put the back of the rotor in a vise with a welding glove to protect the surfaces. Then removing the washer, I was able to get things tight with an impact wrench.

Back to the brushes, They don't fall completely out because a copper wire is holding them to the back of the housing. But a spring is keeping them from sitting in their holes. And they need to be in the holes completely for the rotor to get back there. After reading the FSM and you have to put a wire through a hole in the back of the housing and across the top of the brushes

to hold them in place while you insert the rotor into the alternator housing. I used a paper clip as my wire. And I used and offset screwdriver like this

to hold the brush down in the hole a little. A set of forceps may work better. First the back brush then the forward brush while I worked the paper clip through the hole and over the brushes.

Putting the back of the rotor in the vise helped me to get the alt fan, pulley and nut tight without the extra washer. (Edit) and I did use an impact wrench.

 

[g-man]

P/S Pump is in. Vibrations gone. New p/s pump smooth as butter when driving.

 

[g-man]

Old stuff out.

 

[g-man]

Now I've got a monster gear oil leak on my inner axle seal pass side front. Ordered the Marlin Crawler seal. It's seems I can't keep up with the maintenance. After the seal fix I'll be heading to the muffler shop for new exhaust. Still some small hesitation prob a vacuum leak.

 

[g-man]

Annddddddddddddddd, I've still got the problem with cold anti-freeze pushing out the radiator cap even though the truck sat for two days. Also the overflow jug never gets filled back up but always seems to get drawn down. I've filled it 1/2 full to the mark a couple of times since replacing the head and the same thing is happening. How can it be getting drawn in but not put back? Now starting to wonder if I have the right cap on the radiator. The spring is working but maybe it just doesn't reach the overflow hole at the neck of the radiator?

 

[g-man]

new radiator cap on.. haven't tested. Pulled the wheel and hub off. Looks worse than I thought. The birf was loose and banging in and out. And wore the seal out. It also wore the inner part of the outer axle housing and the globe on the birf. The bushing on the spindle has a 45 degree bevel cut in it and the lower knuckle bearing was exploded. Do I need another axle housing? will replacing the bushing, bearing and the birf be enough to keep it from floating around. I'm worried about the wear inside the housing.

 

[g-man]

waiting on knuckle parts and cleaning and inspecting everything. Wheel bearings look good. I've sanded smooth the scratches in the ball on the outer birf with 400 grit and oil. Grooves in the ball are not very deep. I'll try to keep going with the birf. Got a new spindle bushing coming but the old one only had some slight wear. I'll try the aftermarket bush since they said they've had good luck with them and no many complaints.

 

[g-man]

Still waiting for parts. I assume the lower bearing went out first, then the play in the knuckle caused the birf to cut the oil seal. Questioning if i mixed up the shims when I did the knuckles about 4 or 5 years ago. Anyone willing to loan out a knuckle centering tool?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Still waiting for parts. I assume the lower bearing went out first, then the play in the knuckle caused the birf to cut the oil seal. Questioning if i mixed up the shims when I did the knuckles about 4 or 5 years ago. Anyone willing to loan out a knuckle centering tool?

@CenTXFJ60 or @60Works both have the tool. Jim actually rents his out for a small fee. Not sure about Galen.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

Were the nuts on the lower trunnion bearing cap loose when you pulled off the knuckle? Or maybe the cir-clip missing on the end?
it's hard to image the damage being caused by the birf since it doesn't turn unless the hubs are locked.

 

[g-man]

Were the nuts on the lower trunnion bearing cap loose when you pulled off the knuckle? Or maybe the cir-clip missing on the end?
it's hard to image the damage being caused by the birf since it doesn't turn unless the hubs are locked.

Thanks for your response. The nuts were tight on the trunnion bearing caps. The snap ring was in the groove at the outer end of the birf. But the bearing cap pin was no longer tight inside the lower trunnion bearing because the cage on the bearing was destroyed and some of the rollers had come out. The bottom of the knuckle was moving axially prob and inch. With it ...the birf. The rollers that came out of the cap were sitting sideways on top of the lower bearing cage and race and chewing up the cage and the top of the race. They also put scratches in the birf's knuckle joint. The birf moving in and out axially with the loose knuckle caused wear on the inner axle seal to the point that it cut the metal and started leaking. I did some 4wd last year at CMCC and at that time the birf prob got the scratches in it from the loose rollers.

The first and only time that I did a knuckle job was about 5 years ago. At that time I was less informed and didn't use the FSM specs. didn't have a 54 mm wrench, didn't use torque specs and probably didn't pay attention to keeping the shims in the correct place. I know I didn't measure to center the knuckle or even check pre-load. This time will be different.

 

[g-man]

Here's a shot of the bearing and race damage:

 

[g-man]

After studying this a bit I have a better understanding of how things are held in place. The spindle bushing puts some pressure on the birf joint to hold it in place against the inner axle seal. But the spindle is mounted to the knuckle so if the knuckle preload isn't right or the bearings are shot then that effects birf being snug. Also if the knuckle isn't centered then the birf inner axle will wobble in the seal and eventually start leaking.
Before studying this I mistakenly thought that setting preload on the 54 mm nuts would help snug the birf against the seal. Now I know that the 54 mm nuts only set wheel hub preload.. how much it is tensioned against the spindle.

 

[g-man]

Anyone have a recommendation for a good moly grease for the knuckle ...one that doesn't separate?

 

[Willard]

Annddddddddddddddd, I've still got the problem with cold anti-freeze pushing out the radiator cap even though the truck sat for two days. Also the overflow jug never gets filled back up but always seems to get drawn down. I've filled it 1/2 full to the mark a couple of times since replacing the head and the same thing is happening. How can it be getting drawn in but not put back? Now starting to wonder if I have the right cap on the radiator. The spring is working but maybe it just doesn't reach the overflow hole at the neck of the radiator?

Cannot help with the knuckles but I can help here.

First is to order the right cap from Toyota. Also make sure you have no bubbles in the system (run it with the cap off and squeeze the top hose until there is nothing)

When I refreshed my cooling system the following was done
PO work:
New rad (Less than 500 miles on when when I got it per the receipt)
New heater hoses
Used cap
Reman Toyota WP

My work
New fan clutch
New water pump
New thermostat
All new main hoses
New cap
New coolant and checked with the correct antifreeze tester

Ran the engine with the cap off until up to temp.
Noticed the fluid starting to surge and just let it overflow into a container
Squeezed the top hose and making sure coolest never got low.
Waited till the surge stopped

Put cap on and ran engine for another 1 hour.
Shut down and waited to cool, took cap off = no pressure and fluid was correct.
3 weeks later no issues
6 months later no issues

I run a mechanical temp gauge along with the stock gauge.
No over heating and all looked good on both.

 

[g-man]

how critical is the bearing support tool ?

 

[g-man]

Cannot help with the knuckles but I can help here.

First is to order the right cap from Toyota. Also make sure you have no bubbles in the system (run it with the cap off and squeeze the top hose until there is nothing)

When I refreshed my cooling system the following was done
PO work:
New rad (Less than 500 miles on when when I got it per the receipt)
New heater hoses
Used cap
Reman Toyota WP

My work
New fan clutch
New water pump
New thermostat
All new main hoses
New cap
New coolant and checked with the correct antifreeze tester

Ran the engine with the cap off until up to temp.
Noticed the fluid starting to surge and just let it overflow into a container
Squeezed the top hose and making sure coolest never got low.
Waited till the surge stopped

Put cap on and ran engine for another 1 hour.
Shut down and waited to cool, took cap off = no pressure and fluid was correct.
3 weeks later no issues
6 months later no issues

I run a mechanical temp gauge along with the stock gauge.
No over heating and all looked good on both.

Thanks, that's solid advice. My old cap was 9# cap. I bought an Advance auto #13 cap hoping something changes. I have read that oem is the right choice here. I still haven't had time to check the coolant. I planned on getting an OEM cap if things don't get better. And ... I'll run through this method and see if that helps.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Just adding, I borrowed the tool from @Jaric00n when I’d done mine.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Anyone have a recommendation for a good moly grease for the knuckle ...one that doesn't separate?

Napa has a big tub of wheel bearing and chassis grease. It’s what I used per what @mwebfj60 uses and I fully respect his choices; he ain’t no dummy. And I was gifted the Timkin tub so I figured I’d use it for the bearings at minimum.