Builds g-man's land cruiser story

[g-man]

hot valve adjustment was done. Each rocker needed tightening about 1/8 turn to get the feeler gauge right. So it seems the cold adjustment is just to get you close. The #1 head bolt is now under the rocker assembly so no torquing that one. And NO I'm not taking the rocker assembly back off after doing two valve adjustments. Went on to # 2 and # 3 etc ...they all clicked the torque wrench at 90# w/out turning the bolts. so seems they didn't need a retorque. May check on it after driving a bit more.

First drive was sluggish and had a hesitation. Tightening the manifolds helped some. Advancing the timing helped eliminate the sluggishness. Spraying starter fluid around the intake yielded no increase in rpms. But I found a leak in the EGR to manifold gasket Took that apart and coated with some copper rtv.
That improved it but I still have some hesitation. Got a loaner vacuum gauge from Advance store for free with a deposit. Gauge read about 18psi vacuum.

Went to the basement and got my original yazaki plug wires and replaced the aftermarket wires that I put on 3 years ago after my wreck.
That fixed the hesitation.

Took a chance and threw some seafoam into the crankcase maybe 4 or 5 oz.( less than the 1 oz per qt of oil recommended) and ran it til the engine got warm then changed the oil. Hoping that one doesn't bite me in the butt. I know the lifters are covered in sludge. But I've been driving for a while and all is well. Survived to live another day. My neighbor asked me how long I thought it would run. I told him it might explode 10 minutes down the road or it might go ten years.

 

[Big Timber]

That last sentenced could be filed in the “you know you’re a 60 owner if...” thread.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

no torquing that one.

I bought a set of crows feet just for that bolt. It can be torqued w/o pulling the rocker.

 

[g-man]

I bought a set of crows feet just for that bolt. It can be torqued w/o pulling the rocker.

does the set you bought work on the intake studs/nuts?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

does the set you bought work on the intake studs/nuts?

 

[g-man]

I think I have screwed my engine with the Seafoam. It was running good and I put about 250 miles on it and now it's got a bad vibration. I did the valve adjustment again but really it was good. Thinking crankshaft bearings. I'll check the oil and see what it looks like. I still have power and oil pressure. I can feel vibrations and hear groaning or grumbling when rpms get up a little. In neutral too so it's not the running gear. Top of the head looks good ...just oil no mixture. Prob best to tear it down before she explodes completely and causes more damage.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The only thing you did was replace the head w/ a new used head. Very weird timing. The coolant can ruin bearings? I’m simply trying to get a good grasp on what could so quickly go down after the ‘small’ work you just did.

 

[g-man]

I dumped 4 or 5 oz of seafoam in the oil. Since the head was clean I thought I would try to clean the rest of the engine. I did that as soon as I finished the head work and did a cold valve adjustment. But there was sludge on the lifters and sitting on that side of the engine. I ran it up to operating temps then changed the oil. I noticed my filter felt heavier than normal so I assume a bunch of sludge went in there. But i wonder if some fell down thru the cracks along the lifters and got in the bearings? My oil is clean. My oil pressure good. No loose push rods. Nothing but oil on top of the head. Maybe I should check the new oil filter to see if it is full of sludge. I'm afraid to drive very far. I don't want this motor to grenade and cause more damage.

 

[FJACS]

I’d look at the accessory drive for vibration- water pump, fan clutch/fan, harmonic balancer...

 

[g-man]

I’d look at the accessory drive for vibration- water pump, fan clutch/fan, harmonic balancer...

I'll take off the alternator belt and drive up and down my street tomorrow to eliminate the p/s pump and alternator. both have been acting up a bit.

 

[g-man]

Good news. My motor is NOT broke. @FJACS you're a genius! Took off the belt ...no more vibration.
My p/s pump has been making a "shhhhh" noise ...the bearing behind the pulley I'd guess. Spray some spray lube on it and it goes away for a day. But my alternator fin wheel was loose behind the pulley. The metal fins would make a racket hitting the housing. I tightened the nut but had to stick a screwdriver inside the housing and found a slot to hold it tight...thus holding the spindle and inner workings tight so I could tighten the nut/lockwasher/pulley and fin wheel. I guess that wasn't a good move. the rattling stopped but maybe the vibs are coming off the alternator now. Anyway I'll take it to a shop and fork up some $$ for a good p/s pump.

 

[g-man]

Is there a proper way to tighten the nut on the alternator pulley? Seems like if you just snug up on the belt the pulley (edit) will hold tight but my pulley is spinning around on the spindle. So the pulley won't move but the spindle was and the nut couldn't get tight. Is the pulley supposed to be pressed on? Or be tight to the spindle before the nut goes on? The hole in the pulley is round and not oblong as is the hole in the center of the alternator fan wheel. I don't see any excess wear here either. There's a shoulder at the back of the spindle ...I thought the pulley and fan wheel were kind of supposed to be snugged against that to hold them tight to the spindle.

 

[FJACS]

With the belt on, I’d use an impact gun. It will get it tight without turning the pulley.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Agreed w/ the impact. That’s how mine was done when I needed help swapping the pulley a few years back.

 

[g-man]

Looking at the 2f fsm it shows taking the back of the housing off the alternator and putting the back of the rotor in a soft grip vice then turning the pulley nut.

I just held the rotor in place with a flat screwdriver at a 45 deg into the housing in between the fins of the fan and turned the nut until the screwdriver fell into one of the slots on the rotor. I don't think I damage anything. With the belt off the alternator pulley and fan spin freely and I don't hear any bearing noise. The p/s pump on the other hand seems stiff.

 

[Nostradamus]

Good news. My motor is NOT broke. @FJACS you're a genius! Took off the belt ...no more vibration.
My p/s pump has been making a "shhhhh" noise ...the bearing behind the pulley I'd guess. Spray some spray lube on it and it goes away for a day. But my alternator fin wheel was loose behind the pulley. The metal fins would make a racket hitting the housing. I tightened the nut but had to stick a screwdriver inside the housing and found a slot to hold it tight...thus holding the spindle and inner workings tight so I could tighten the nut/lockwasher/pulley and fin wheel. I guess that wasn't a good move. the rattling stopped but maybe the vibs are coming off the alternator now. Anyway I'll take it to a shop and fork up some $$ for a good p/s pump.

You might want to consider a Saginaw PS swap as an alternative to a Toyo PS pump. I did the swap in my truck and really like the result. Georg (@orangefj45) can hook you up with a nice kit that make it an easy/quick fix, plus Sag PS pumps are all over the place for reasonable prices at your local parts store.

 

[Big Timber]

Impact wrench the alt pulley.

 

[joebattle1]

I second the Saginaw pump from Georg.

 

[g-man]

Going to order the saginaw kit from Georg today. Already bought the pump. With the core charge it was $64.22 compare that to SOR toyota pump at $635.00 before shipping!

 

[g-man]

And Racer City's toyota pump is 210.00 but out of stock.