Builds g-man's land cruiser story (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

I found out why it was sagging so much on the passenger side rear. When I removed the spring pack the top spring was broken in two places all the way across the spring just under the axle.

 

[maxbob002]

Great looking truck and good information in the links.

 

[batthewmrown]

View attachment 1720812

Seems like the suspension work was a good call! How do the KO2s look with the OME now?

 

[g-man]

Seems like the suspension work was a good call! How do the KO2s look with the OME now?

Yes my truck was a prime candidate for a suspension overhaul! I think the 31" ko2s on 15 inch wheels look good with the lift. They don't look too small and I like that I'll keep my torque and gear ratio normal and I don't have to re-gear. I have noticed low bass sounding vibrations at about 2200 rpms in third gear but it goes away with higher speeds. I was thinking this may be u-joints vibrating now that there's a little more angle on them? Drove it a bit and re-torqued. Greased the fittings. Still need to install the steering stabilizer. The one I have on there is from 2015 so not that old. But probably not as beefy as the OME. Kurt (Cruiser Outfitters) is sending me correct bushings for the rear shocks. Evidently my truck has the skinny pins like pre 86. (mine's an 87) and the bushings come in two different sizes. the inside diameter of the bushings that came with the kit are like 18mm and the pin is 15mm. I just squeezed them on there with the washers and hardware. I knew they were wrong but figured they wouldn't move to much in a few days until I get the new ones.

 

[g-man]

The OME...technically the EMU Dakar heavy/heavy suspension..install went pretty good. The fronts really fell into place. With the truck jacked up as far as I could I placed jack stands at the front of the truck just behind the trans crossmember. I pinned the spring eyes to the fixed pin and the shackle first. Then I used the new axle bolts and nuts to pull the spring pack and spring seat up to the axle making sure the center pin lined up. I cleaned up ie wire brushed and greased the spring seat. There is no rubber insulator that comes with these springs. After getting the spring snug to the axle with an impact wrench, I mounted the shock and stabilizer bar links. Once everything is in place I dropped the weight of the truck down on the wheels and snugged it all up even more. The rear springs were a bit harder. The center pin on the bottom of the spring seat was about 3/4 inches EDIT: rearward (after pinning the spring eyes) so I had to move the axle EDIT forward or the spring EDIT: back to get it to pop in place. I flexed the spring by putting a pry bar thru the shackle and with my foot on the wheel well laying on my back I pried the spring rearward until it popped in place. The original isolators (rubber and metal piece that goes over the sides of the spring pack) are deleted.. as in not used, and a metal bushing is used to take up the difference between the small centering pin and the large hole it goes in.

 

[g-man]

According to Brice at Cruiser Outfitters these suspensions are supposed to have a downward rake. He gave me a choice of 3/4 inch higher in the back or 1 1/2 inch higher in the back. I chose the lesser not really wanting the stink bug look. Still it does have a downward rake but not too terrible.

 

[g-man]

ARB bumper installed. I'm looking for recommendations for a winch. I'm liking WARN or other high quality. What did you go with and why? Advantages of low profile versus high profile. Prefer something I can fit with minimum effort. Off road light recommendations too!

 

[slacker24-7]

. If you can swing it a warn 8274 is the perfect winch for these rigs and that bumper..they have been around a long time, I’ve had several on different rigs, shown on my old 40, ( I have the older style ARB bumper and assume it will fit yours) it’s probably the best all around winch out there, but pricy and won’t work on a lot of the newer rigs, like my 100 which I put a warn VR10 and am very happy with. I’ll make some folks mad but in my opinion the only other brand I’d use is a upper end superwinch. A winch is no place to scrimp, it must work at all times and under the worst conditions.

 

[slacker24-7]

This one? https://www.amazon.com/WARN-38631-M...pID=51aJQMxaMtL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

. Yeap.. check specs and performance tests. It’s a amazing winch , that’s been around with minimal changes for a lot of years. used ones can be had for $500 up. I did remember after posting above that on my old style bumper I had to grind a very small spot on the pass side for clearance. No big deal at all.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Cool truck and story! I too bought mine under Dave’s inspiration. I’ve probably spent more on it than I’ve saved on car payments , but the friends met and adventures had are priceless!

 

[g-man]

Cool truck and story! I too bought mine under Dave’s inspiration. I’ve probably spent more on it than I’ve saved on car payments , but the friends met and adventures had are priceless!

your story is amazing too! These trucks carry us further that we think. Maybe someday I'll be heading to MOAB too. For now heading to Rausch Creek in July for CMCC. Yes I struggled with no a/c for years and just a work truck but now getting to enjoy it a bit, and throw some money at it. Gonna pick up a warn m8274 winch. although it is pricey ...it's reliability, speed and strength are legendary. Thanks @slacker24-7

 

[Code Red]

I am on the 8274 train as well. I just rebuilt an old one and put it on the cruiser. Simple, robust, and easy to work on.

I have also had good experiences with M8000, the M8000i, the 9.5xp and the newer Zeon series. Some frustrating experiences with the M12,000 (solenoids), BAAAD experiences with the Zeon Platinum series (remote clutch) and truly horrific experiences with the Powerplant Series (everything possible and lots that shouldn't be).

On an completely different note, my brother has been a "Warn Guy" for 30 years, but has had several newer Warns fail on him. He is now sworn off them and is using the Smittybuilt X2O series and loves them. I too have been calling them $##tty Built forever, but my little brother gets plenty of hard use out of winches. If they are making him happy, then there's probably something worth looking at.

If I had to buy a new one right now it would be an 8274 or a Zeon 12,000, but Warn needs to start looking over their shoulder if they want to stay on top.

 

[g-man]

I've been working on this thing like a dog this last week. C-channels installed here: installing c channels

. New spare tire installed, Winch installed, ham radio installed. Still have to stretch the winch line and wind it back on.

 

[g-man]

COAL MINE CRUISER CLASSIC pics...going into the mud hole then winching out.

beno casually cruising behind me with his 70 convertible.

 

[g-man]

and a few more random pics

View attachment 1744192

 

[g-man]

Removed the old hub nuts today. Adjusted pre-load and installed new nuts/washer. I noticed one side the nuts were chewed up and the other side they were new. I must have got only one set with the knuckle rebuild kit last time I touched this. Anyway I'm pretty sure I didn't do it right last time. I noticed a little side to side play in one wheel when on jack stands during my lift install. At that time I just tightened up the outer lock nut and seemed to help. Armed with new hub nuts and 54mm socket I used the fsm torque specs and did it sorta correct. I say sorta because I didn't have a fish scale to pull. I just preloaded to 43 ft/lb then turned 3 times back and forth. Then again to 43 ft/lbs then back and forth with the hub. Then backed off the nut to hand loose, then snugged to 60 inch/lbs...barely beyond hand tight. To do this I made an adapter using a 1/4 drive 11mm socket and welding it to a 3 inch 3/8 extension out of an cheap socket set. Then using the adapter and a 1/4 drive inch/lb torque wrench I turned the 54mm socket to the correct spec of 60 inch/lbs. Then the locking washer and outer nut to 58 ft/lbs. Spun the hub again. pressed the tabs down. One outward, one inward on flat sections of the hub nuts. I used a screwdriver first, then a punch to get these tight to the nuts. When I put the wheel back on I rocked it side to side and up and down. tight!

this stuff...

.

 

[g-man]

camping pic at pine grove PA campground during CMCC

 

[g-man]

mostly just documenting my progress. installed oem front door window regulators/new crank handles and escutcheons. After 6 months the aftermarket regulators just suck. While the door cards were out I cleaned them up. The 12 year old sony speakers were shot. I installed infinity 6.5 inch here:

6 1/2 inch speaker install

Then I installed IPF H4 headlamps, Hella h4 80/100w bulbs, and the ARB/IPf m002 loom.

Here are the links to Amazon if you want to price this plug and play headlight upgrade. All said it was about $200 USD. MUCH brighter than the stock set up. Click on the three links posted below to check prices and availibility.

Amazon product ASIN B004LQHHIW
Amazon product ASIN B004LQGE18
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&tag=ihco-20&th=1

 

[g-man]

drivers seat back from upholstery shop. 125.00 for new vinyl, seat bottom foam and tightening the seat back up too. Not bad.

 

[g-man]

installed a 62 rear hatch lock cylinder and actuator today. I now have keyless entry or remote lock/unlock of ALL locks. Only negative is you can't visually check to see the rear is locked as the cylinder doesn't turn the (edit) "key slot" sideways like the 60 cylinder. Thanks to @4wheelfever for figuring this out. Here' is link and its page 4, post #65. The Riggs Dream Machine

Here is my post outlining installing remote keyless entry system in a 60. You'll need 62 lock actuators and 62 lock mechanisms and linkage (both are bolt-in application in the 60 doors)

wiring up a keyless remote on a 60