Builds g-man's land cruiser story (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter g-man
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g-man
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- #43
Spent last week in hatteras surf fishing. Weather was rough, fishing was slow. 2 days after returning home, my buddy texts me and informs me of an epic day on the point. Many red drum caught, most were citation fish. Each of them had caught about 10 giant red drum. My best fish for the week this barely legal flounder.
g-man
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- #44
Not much new. Adjusted my valves the other day. Hard to see the thin line on the flywheel that is tdc. I took the dust cover off the bottom of the bellhousing and used a sharpie to mark the line also added a couple of arrows pointing to it from each side so I could easily see it when it came close. I removed all the spark plugs and was able to move the flywheel around by hand. I used this image from another post. Colored in yellow are the adjustments done when the rotor is pointed toward the motor between the 3rd and 4th plug holes and the straight line on the flywheel on the pointer. Colored in pink are the adjustments when the #6 piston is tdc ..or when the mark on the flywheel comes around again and the rotor points away from the block. Do the "a"s first, then "b's, then move the flywheel and do the "c"s and then the "d"s.
g-man
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I did come up with a "work around" for the heater CB blowing(In Sept/2018) If you have a working a/c turned on and blower on high many have experienced the tripping heater circuit breaker. Here was my work on this. In a nutshell I figured the breaker was tripping way before the 30 amps and if you jump to post 66 in the thread below you'll see my short answer to this: a 30amp inline fuse. This held thoughout the summer and and on some long trips.
A/C blower motor wiring by-pass.
A/C blower motor wiring by-pass.
g-man
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- #46
Also contributed to this thread about replacing the turn signal/headlight/hazard switch.
Turn Signal Fix using parts from a 1983 Toyota Pickup
If you use the ultra power tw35 switch I bought at rockauto the harness is long enough to reach. The pins on the turn signal return donut dont line up so you have to drill holes in the back of the steering wheel to accomodate.
the green wire that attaches to the horn pin on the back side is soldered which is a weak point and failed on me. Replace the solder with the originals wire terminal. Solder pictured here circled in red.
and I have to say I found if the hazard switch is positioned between off and on it WILL back feed current to the ignition and the truck will not turn off even though the key is turned off. When this happened to me I had to pull the wire off the coil to kill the truck until I found the culprit. Since then I just keep and eye on it and it hasn't been a problem.
Turn Signal Fix using parts from a 1983 Toyota Pickup
If you use the ultra power tw35 switch I bought at rockauto the harness is long enough to reach. The pins on the turn signal return donut dont line up so you have to drill holes in the back of the steering wheel to accomodate.
the green wire that attaches to the horn pin on the back side is soldered which is a weak point and failed on me. Replace the solder with the originals wire terminal. Solder pictured here circled in red.
and I have to say I found if the hazard switch is positioned between off and on it WILL back feed current to the ignition and the truck will not turn off even though the key is turned off. When this happened to me I had to pull the wire off the coil to kill the truck until I found the culprit. Since then I just keep and eye on it and it hasn't been a problem.
g-man
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Still need to tidy up these wires a bit. Is it a good idea or bad idea to put conduit over the fusible links? I'm thinking about turning the fusible link connection at the battery terminal and facing it forward then looping it back over and down the middle of the battery and maybe wire tie to that piece of conduit holding the pos cable for the winch.
g-man
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- #56
And figured out how easy it is to get the heater control panel light. Just push in on the pass side of the black rectangular panel that protrudes and it unclips from that side, swing it out and the other side comes out. Then pull the white bulb cover off and there is the 3022 bulb. Thinking about trying a LED here.
g-man
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Pulled the head today. Slight head gasket leak been going on for a while. I have to say that lift hook on the back of the head is a pain to work around. If I don't reinstall it will that screw up the depth of those two head bolts? Makes it hard to get the back driver's side head bolt and hard to get that last air injector loose.
I found out why my truck runs cold. When I removed the thermostat housing from the head I looked inside and saw the top gasket had been blown out of position. I assume from exhaust pressure from the head gasket leak. Luckily I bought another thermostat and gaskets.
Tomorrow I will take my head to a head shop. The FSM says to make several passes while removing the head bolts. What do you think is meant by "several"? I probably went 4 times before the head bolts were finger loose. I do plan on doing the galley plug fix while it's out.
I found out why my truck runs cold. When I removed the thermostat housing from the head I looked inside and saw the top gasket had been blown out of position. I assume from exhaust pressure from the head gasket leak. Luckily I bought another thermostat and gaskets.
Tomorrow I will take my head to a head shop. The FSM says to make several passes while removing the head bolts. What do you think is meant by "several"? I probably went 4 times before the head bolts were finger loose. I do plan on doing the galley plug fix while it's out.
No biggie if you don’t install the rear hook. All of the head bolts are the same length.
