Full Skid plate Recommendations

[Rednexus]

Rust really shouldn't be an issue for you in LA. Stainless steel can actually be weaker and more brittle than carbon steel, so for actual rock impacts I'd personally prefer carbon steel, which will is more ductile and will bend before it breaks (case in point: my ARB skids are dented and mangled but still work just fine for actual damage prevention). And, if you do damage a carbon steel skid, it's drastically to either beat it back into shape, or have any shop that can weld repair it, as opposed to repairing stainless, which requires either TIG welding or welding using special gas and stainless wire.

If the carbon steel skids get beat up of in the future, I'd just pull them off and have them blasted and powder-coated again. I'm getting my sliders blasted and coated in a few weeks as they look kind of crappy after 4 years and 4 winters on the rig. This will probably cost me around $100, but I'm getting it done as part of a big batch of other powder coating.

BUT if you really do like the SS, I'd get it raw as opposed to coating it. If you get it powder coated, it will flake off the first time you hit the skids, leaving you with black skids with silver streaks on them.

 

[BigSwede]

If the carbon steel skids get beat up of in the future, I'd just pull them off and have them blasted and powder-coated again, which (at least around here) is not inexpensive if you have relationships with a good shop. I'm getting my sliders blasted and coated in a few weeks as they look kind of crappy after 4 years and 4 winters on the rig.

I hit my skids, sliders, and bumpers once or twice a year with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Works really well, bonds with rust if any. Quick and easy. Powdercoating stuff that grinds on rocks is a losing game.

 

[Rednexus]

I hit my skids, sliders, and bumpers once or twice a year with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Works really well, bonds with rust if any. Quick and easy. Powdercoating stuff that grinds on rocks is a losing game.

I have a cousin who owns a sandblasting business and a great local powder coater who is also cheap . Blasting and coating these only cost me $235 and it was ~12 feet of railing. I'm working on another ~65 feet of them at the moment for outside. If my sliders last 4 years in powder like the rattle can job did, it's definitely worth it for me just for the time savings in prep work and paint.

 

[khalid7412002]

BudBuilt doesn't really play those games, you might be waiting a long time.

I see a couple of promo codes online and see that now and again they have sales around BF.

I wish they would do another group buy like they did back in 2020, which was for 200/201 series Cruisers.

 

[khalid7412002]

Rust really shouldn't be an issue for you in LA. Stainless steel can actually be weaker and more brittle than carbon steel, so for actual rock impacts I'd personally prefer carbon steel, which will is more ductile and will bend before it breaks (case in point: my ARB skids are dented and mangled but still work just fine for actual damage prevention). And, if you do damage a carbon steel skid, it's drastically to either beat it back into shape, or have any shop that can weld repair it, as opposed to repairing stainless, which requires either TIG welding or welding using special gas and stainless wire.

If the carbon steel skids get beat up of in the future, I'd just pull them off and have them blasted and powder-coated again. I'm getting my sliders blasted and coated in a few weeks as they look kind of crappy after 4 years and 4 winters on the rig. This will probably cost me around $100, but I'm getting it done as part of a big batch of other powder coating.

BUT if you really do like the SS, I'd get it raw as opposed to coating it. If you get it powder coated, it will flake off the first time you hit the skids, leaving you with black skids with silver streaks on them.

This is great feedback on a topic I have no knowledge in. My main focus is protection so if SS might be weaker when hitting a rock hard, then carbon steel is more desirable for what I am looking for.

 

[khalid7412002]

You can powder coat them if you want, but if you actually grind them on a rock it will strip the powder coat right off. I would just paint them, so you can touch them up with a rattle can if you scratch them.

so you're saying instead of powdercoating, I should get them painted instead, and then touch as needed, and use Rustoleum Rust Reformer as needed?

So if I get just regular steel not powerdercoating, I would need to get them painted right to prevent rust?

 

[r2m]

I have a cousin who owns a sandblasting business and a great local powder coater who is also cheap . Blasting and coating these only cost me $235 and it was ~12 feet of railing. I'm working on another ~65 feet of them at the moment for outside. If my sliders last 4 years in powder like the rattle can job did, it's definitely worth it for me just for the time savings in prep work and paint.
View attachment 3868873

Personally, I hate painting...
I hate the prep work and the spraying Since I don't have a good large open area (inside or outside) to spray without getting over spray on my own and/or neighbors vehicles and whatnot.

 

[Rednexus]

so you're saying instead of powdercoating, I should get them painted instead, and then touch as needed, and use Rustoleum Rust Reformer as needed?

So if I get just regular steel not powerdercoating, I would need to get them painted right to prevent rust?

You definitely need to coat them with something. BigSwede is right that rocks will destroy powdercoat....but they'll also destroy paint. I prefer power coating as I have low-cost local shops that can do it, and it's easier to just bring them a rusty part and get something back that's perfectly powder coated and ready to use.

There is nothing wrong with paint either and it's much easier for touch-ups than powder coat, but it does require a lot of laborious prep work to get it perfect and you really need to wear a respirator if you are DIY'ing it (even with spray cans, it's pretty noxious and definitely affects me without a half-face on).

I painted my sliders 4 years ago and never bothered touching them up - so I'm going to powdercoating in the future for everything.

 

[r2m]

You definitely need to coat them with something. BigSwede is right that rocks will destroy powdercoat....but they'll also destroy paint. I prefer power coating as I have low-cost local shops that can do it, and it's easier to just bring them a rusty part and get something back that's perfectly powder coated and ready to use.

There is nothing wrong with paint either and it's much easier for touch-ups than powder coat, but it does require a lot of laborious prep work to get it perfect and you really need to wear a respirator if you are DIY'ing it (even with spray cans, it's pretty noxious and definitely affects me without a half-face on).

I painted my sliders 4 years ago and never bothered touching them up - so I'm going to powdercoating in the future for everything.

You could also hard anodize. Provides a harder, better, non-peel coating. Albeit, it will cost more.

 

[BigSwede]

There is nothing wrong with paint either and it's much easier for touch-ups than powder coat, but it does require a lot of laborious prep work to get it perfect

That's why I use Rust Reformer. Very little prep needed, just a quick wire brush to get off any loose scale, then hit it. But I'm not going for perfect because I know it is going to get scratched up again. And again.

Project Farm tested rust coatings and Rust Reformer did very well, and was definitely the best bang for your buck.

 

[Cold Iron]

If I was going with aftermarket skids personally I'd go with BudBuilt steel. With my other rigs I've just stayed with OEM (TRD) and buy replacement take offs as needed. They are cheap and common, well until the GX came along. But still I'm not willing to add anymore weight than I need to but I don't target rock gardens. But do cross them several times annually.

I had my Taco armor powder coated by a commercial place in town even though I was a small order they showed me around the plant and treated me like I was spending thousands instead of $200.

Sliders got sandblasted from gravel roads daily everything exposed to Mn. winter salt for 11 years. About 6 years in hit rusting areas with a wire wheel and then Rust oleum Rust Reformer. After a couple of weeks curing hit them with black matte pebble finish rust oleum rattle cans.

Over 11 years it held up pretty well IMO, when I took pictures to sell it

Well crap have another dent in the same place on the GX already. Damn trees....

I'd do it all over again the same way and if the powder coating on my sliders on the GX starts to peel or rust will do the same. Or take them off if the bolts aren't rusted in place and take them to the same powder coat place in town. Odds are if the PC starts to peel the bolts are rust welded in place by then. Flooring paper with blue painters masking tape works well for masking off the rest of the vehicle from overspray.

 

[Cold Iron]

As an addendum to painting, I hate painting. For the first 10 years in the Navy I painted so much will likely never recover from it. Machinery gray on main engines and reduction gears, pumps and turbines. White on lagging pads. High heat silver on valves and steam lines. Red oxide in the bilges. Even red barber pole stripes on the propeller shafts.

After posting here about my experience with powder coating I went to FB and apparently AI followed me there LOL.

Pretty close but the cigars I smoke are just a bit longer and bigger ring size.

 

[Roody]

This wasn't listed on that page with all the various companies and products. But I just looked at their package for 3/16" steel black powdercoated and added the gas thank and it comes out to roughly $1,250 shipped which is pretty great deal.

Do you have any issues with doing oil changes? I don't do my own and am wondering who easy it will be for shops to do oil changes and other work. They say there is access but wondering about any direct feedback.


I plan to keep this car forever and might do cross country trips or even move somewhere else. I'd like to buy stainless just to not worry about doing touchups and things like that, my energy for doing things myself is completely gone while dealing with health issues.

Do you have any experience with Talon's Garage skids? While not stainless steel, the overall package is at a great price point for full coverage skids

I have only had oil changes done at the dealer since installing them, but they have not notified me of any issues.

 

[Banandalorian]

A few things:

• If you are keeping the stock suspension, it will be noticeably lower after adding steel skids and sliders.
  • If you want to save some weight and aren't intentionally bashing your underbody off rocks, aluminum skids are about the same price as stainless steel. Aluminum is softer and "stickier" sliding over rocks compared with either steel. For incidental stuff it will be fine but if you want to play in the rocks, steel is better.
  • Mild steel is cheaper than stainless or aluminum but you will have to keep up with paint maintenance. You'll have to occasionally crawl underneath and/or drop the skids to get them cleaned off and hit with fresh paint to prevent rust. I do this a couple times per year.
  • You can skip the powdercoat and paint yourself to save delivery time and money.
• Budbuilts are expensive but they have some additional stuff while the others are just 4Runner skids that fit. I've been running the full Budbuilt set since 2022 and it has paid for itself many times by smashing the skids instead of smashing something expensive.
  • Budbuilt has GX specific maintenance hatches. You don't have to drop whole plates for oil changes and stuff.
  • Budbuilt's front skid keeps the ability to use the skid as a jack point the same way the OEM can. Not every aftermarket skid does this.
  • You can get the "overland" protection in steel to save a little weight. The front skid is 3/16th steel but the rest of them are thinner 1/8th inch steel. This is what I have and it works great. Full 3/16th steel is overkill unless you are really bashing yourself into rocks. I know this because I am stupid and have really bashed myself into rocks without any issues from the thinner plates.
  • You don't need a diff skid unless you are doing really dumb stuff. Budbuilt's diff skid is a superior design to the other options if you want to get one so everyone can see how hard you are trying (I have one because the stainless looks cool on the rear diff and I am stupid). Other designs can interfere with the fuel tank skid/fuel tank when flexed out. The Budbuilt design doesn't have this problem and also fits super tight to the diff so you lose very little ground clearance there. It still works as a jacking point for the entire rear of the car.

 

[Jim_Chow]

Hey yalls, recently took my 2023 Luxury with off-road package, so have some factory plates, on a trail and they got a little beat up so looking a complete skid plate system. I don't plan to lift or maybe a modest lift in the future but for now no plans so I am looking for stainless steel for extra protection. I am also planning to get rock sliders at the same time.

I'm looking to buy around black friday later this year for some deals or at least free shipping.

I see a package 5 piece package from Budbuilt for Stainless Steel 3/16" (4.76mm) thick painted black that comes out to $3,000 shipped.

• BudBuilt Rock Armor Stage 2 (5 pc)
• Front, Mid, Transmission, Crossmember and Fuel Tank (however, does not come with Differential Skid Plate, additional $600 with shipping so $3,600 for everything stainless steel colored black
• If I get the same package but NOT in stainless steel, just regular steel powdercoated black, total comes out to $2,700 shipped.

I see RCI has individual skid plates in 3/16" Steel - Black Powdercoat (however, not stainless steel like budbuilt so not sure if rust will be an issue as the powerdercoat wears off)

• Piecing together the same package as budbuilt 6 piece package, (Engine, Transmission, Transfer-Case, Fuel Tank, Rear Differential) total comes out to $1,533 shipped

I see Victory 4x4 has some steel plates for a 3 piece that comes out to $1200 shipping. I don't see a gas nor a rear diff plate.
I see CBI package for $1400 shipped, but I think it only has two piece, from and rear skids. No gas or rear diff, transfer case.


Is there any value to buying Budbuilt in either stainless steel coated black or regular steel coated black over RCI plates when it's more than $1,000 more and A LOT more for the stainless option?

Are these any location shops in Los Angeles that sell RCI or other plate system that I can get locally?

I just bought the fuel tank plate and full bottom plates (front, engine, transmission+cats, transfer case) in aluminum on sale at Talons Garage (4 plate set was under $1K, shipping was $70 cross country, no tax). Haven't installed them yet (waiting for some aluminum coating treatment to arrive), also ordered all 316 stainless hex fasteners online instead of the zinc. I looked at all those options you mentioned. Talons Garage front plate gives wider coverage than RCI, and gas tank plate gives some front protection vs. none for RCI.

 

[Acrad]

@Banandalorian ”

• Budbuilt's front skid keeps the ability to use the skid as a jack point the same way the OEM can. Not every aftermarket skid does this.”

I think Budbuilt is the only one doing this and offers significant strength if vehicle ends up resting on this area as it is actually a load bearing area

 

[llm]

I just bought the fuel tank plate and full bottom plates (front, engine, transmission+cats, transfer case) in aluminum on sale at Talons Garage (4 plate set was under $1K, shipping was $70 cross country, no tax). Haven't installed them yet (waiting for some aluminum coating treatment to arrive), also ordered all 316 stainless hex fasteners online instead of the zinc. I looked at all those options you mentioned. Talons Garage front plate gives wider coverage than RCI, and gas tank plate gives some front protection vs. none for RCI.

I have the Talon trans skid plate. It is also wider than the RCI version, but the extra width makes it more flexible. it's is bent up 90 degrees on the sides, but it will show noticeable flex when weight is on it. I have had the entire weight of the GX on it and it has held up, but is bent near the mounting points, which makes install/uninstall more of a pain.

 

[Banandalorian]

@Banandalorian ”

• Budbuilt's front skid keeps the ability to use the skid as a jack point the same way the OEM can. Not every aftermarket skid does this.”

I think Budbuilt is the only one doing this and offers significant strength if vehicle ends up resting on this area as it is actually a load bearing area

I have repeatedly crashed my Budbuilt front skid into the Earth and can confirm the skid plate is stronger than the Earth.