Full flat cargo plate - anyone make one?

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CharlieS

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I'm looking for a flat platform that spans from behind the front row seats all the way back to the rear gate (I do not have second or third row seats).

I know there are multiple vendors that sell plates for the cargo area alone. I haven't run across any that go full length.

I often sleep in the 80, since it is convenient when I go solo. Tons less camp set up and breakdown.

The downside is that the floor isn't flat. There are formed ribs that make it more uncomfortable than it needs to be, even with a good sleeping pad.

Full disclosure, I'm cheap and won't spend thousands on a glorified piece of plywood. That being said, if someone already makes a full plate that I can just buy and install, I'd probably pay for the convenience if the price was comfortable.

With all the high tech laser scanners and cnc cutting equipment, it seems like it would be easy enough for someone to bang one out. Then again, it is a super limited addressable market...

I suspect I need to buy some plywood, make cardboard templates, and make something at home. Just thought I'd ask first.
 
Full disclosure, I'm cheap and won't spend thousands on a glorified piece of plywood. That being said, if someone already makes a full plate that I can just buy and install, I'd probably pay for the convenience if the price was comfortable.

I guessing Goose Gear makes one but won't satisfy above
 
Interested to see response too

I've toyed with this idea too, but haven't come up with an easy solution.

One challenge is doing the rear part in a single piece of ply. It finding s at tu join sheets at the edge and keep them flat and flush
 
I'd DIY over a weekend and save a lot of dough. If you can use a router to round the edges, even better. Then grab some carpet and a staple gun. 👍🏽
 
I am not 100 percent sure this is what you are looking for, but GXbasecamp sells plans for one made from 80/20 and plywood. I have one, and it is pretty cool, but I do find myself wanting drawers sometimes.

GX Basecamp Plans

Jared
 
Thanks, Goose Gear has an option, with hatches and all, but it is more than I can justify spending. Thanks for the tip.

I'd like this for 75% off please. :) lol

Thanks for the GXBasecamp link. I'm looking for a flat floor level platform, not raised. I have a set of Reef drawers, and a set of ADGU drawers that used to go in my 200 that I could repurpose if I wanted a platform/drawers. I want to keep the increased headroom. I find it more comfortable.

I have the woodworking tools (circular saw, jigsaw, orbital sander, router) but am not the greatest finish carpenter, so the results are always not quite as nice as I'd hope. I'm more a rough/framing skill level, if you know what I mean.

Lots of ways to join panels, but the one that works best for me is to make a wide scarf joint. I learned this from boatbuilding guys. It makes for a strong, flat, seamless joint. Can do it with a circular saw or a power planer. If you make a jig it is almost easy. Scarf joint

But I'd also note that the Goose Gear setup linked above doesn't have the pieces joined, so maybe keeping the front and rear sections separate is also a viable choice?

My loose idea is to add airline track running around the perimeter (I have a bunch from a project that never got off the ground) and use adhesive foam decking like used on boat floors for an extra layer of padding under the air mattress.

If I end up making something, I'll post up what I do.

Thanks for the replies!
 
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Thanks, Goose Gear has an option, with hatches and all, but it is more than I can justify spending. Thanks for the tip.

I'd like this for 75% off please. :) lol

Thanks for the GXBasecamp link. I'm looking for a flat floor level platform, not raised. I have a set of Reef drawers, and a set of ADGU drawers that used to go in my 200 that I could repurpose if I wanted a platform/drawers. I want to keep the increased headroom. I find it more comfortable.

I have the woodworking tools (circular saw, jigsaw, orbital sander, router) but am not the greatest finish carpenter, so the results are always not quite as nice as I'd hope. I'm more a rough/framing skill level, if you know what I mean.

Lots of ways to join panels, but the one that works best for me is to make a wide scarf joint. I learned this from boatbuilding guys. It makes for a strong, flat, seamless joint. Can do it with a circular saw or a power planer. If you make a jig it is almost easy. Scarf joint

But I'd also note that the Goose Gear setup linked above doesn't have the pieces joined, so maybe keeping the front and rear sections separate is also a viable choice?

My loose idea is to add airline track running around the perimeter (I have a bunch from a project that never got off the ground) and use adhesive foam decking like used on boat floors for an extra layer of padding under the air mattress.

If I end up making something, I'll post up what I do.

Thanks for the replies!
Sounds like a great plan! Curious, can't this plate be made out of a single sheet of plywood? You're building something that'll be spanning across the entire length of the 80, yes?
 
I did some gross measurements and I only have access to 4x8' sheets of ply. If I remember correctly, the 8' can be cut down to fit the fore/aft dimension, but 4' doesn't span from door panel to door panel.

It looks like Goose Gear are possibly running the shorter dimension (4') fore/aft, so they end up with a joint to cover the 6' or so spanning over where the second row seats were to the back of the front seats.

They also seem to be making the two second row replacements separately so they can be installed/removed individually. This split design is handy (my Trekbox second row delete on the 200 are like this, and it opens up the possibility of keeping one second row seat in place if you want) - and also allows them to make it from smaller pieces of sheet goods. Clever from a manufacturing and shipping point of view.

I will never need second row seats - I'd just take another rig if more than one other person comes along. So... I'd prefer a full solid platform, without all the extra joints, hence the scarf discussion to join things together to make larger sheet goods. But... it has me thinking about making two sections - a rear cargo section and a forward second row section. It would make building them easier, and make any maneuvering easy enough (say I need to get to the fuel pump, for example).
 
Thanks, Goose Gear has an option, with hatches and all, but it is more than I can justify spending. Thanks for the tip.

I'd like this for 75% off please. :) lol

Thanks for the GXBasecamp link. I'm looking for a flat floor level platform, not raised. I have a set of Reef drawers, and a set of ADGU drawers that used to go in my 200 that I could repurpose if I wanted a platform/drawers. I want to keep the increased headroom. I find it more comfortable.

I have the woodworking tools (circular saw, jigsaw, orbital sander, router) but am not the greatest finish carpenter, so the results are always not quite as nice as I'd hope. I'm more a rough/framing skill level, if you know what I mean.

Lots of ways to join panels, but the one that works best for me is to make a wide scarf joint. I learned this from boatbuilding guys. It makes for a strong, flat, seamless joint. Can do it with a circular saw or a power planer. If you make a jig it is almost easy. Scarf joint

But I'd also note that the Goose Gear setup linked above doesn't have the pieces joined, so maybe keeping the front and rear sections separate is also a viable choice?

My loose idea is to add airline track running around the perimeter (I have a bunch from a project that never got off the ground) and use adhesive foam decking like used on boat floors for an extra layer of padding under the air mattress.

If I end up making something, I'll post up what I do.

Thanks for the replies!
I put a drawer height sleeping platform in my LC.

One thing that will really take the finished look of your platform up a level is putting outdoor carpet on top of your plywood, it adds both functionality, and a nice finished look. My platform is just raw 2x4s and a plywood stop with outdoor carpet on it.

You could also explore using aluminum extrusions (8020) and making everything modular on the platform.
 
The downside is that the floor isn't flat. There are formed ribs that make it more uncomfortable than it needs to be, even with a good sleeping pad.
I also sleep on the floor of the cargo area. While I was doing some sound insulation, I laid in some new thicker than stock jute under the OEM carpet. This takes care of things and is almost plush. I have a nice self-inflating sleeping pad, sleeping bag with a snuggly pillow and I'm good to go. Sleep like a baby.

On a different note, about 100 years ago @LandCruiserPhil was selling screens that slip over the rear doors. I have been using these for years and they're great. Of course this was before rare earth magnets were readily available.
I also have a small USB powered fan that clips to the grab handle above the rear door and keeps air moving very nicely.
 
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I've also been thinking about this and my first plan is to buy a cot in the right size that will hopefully just do the trick and not require a project. Plan B is a platform with the rear part resting on the factory 3rd row seat rails.
 
To save $$ i went with Aiden James Customs plates. Took longer to receive but price was in my range.

Screenshot_20240605-202147(1).png
 
I did some gross measurements and I only have access to 4x8' sheets of ply. If I remember correctly, the 8' can be cut down to fit the fore/aft dimension, but 4' doesn't span from door panel to door panel.
If you're going for an easy/affordable DIY build, I'd just run the sheet straight up the guts of the cruiser with bolt on (or just lay in place) wings on the sides. I've toyed with this idea a lot, I can draw you my thoughts but I can't really put them into words.

For support behind the front seats/under wings a simple frame built from this is cheap, lightweight, quick & plenty strong.


As for fuel pump, could you just jigsaw out a removable access panel and use a router to cut a lip for locating it? Something like you see on the right.

floor.jpg
 
If you're going for an easy/affordable DIY build, I'd just run the sheet straight up the guts of the cruiser with bolt on (or just lay in place) wings on the sides. I've toyed with this idea a lot, I can draw you my thoughts but I can't really put them into words.

For support behind the front seats/under wings a simple frame built from this is cheap, lightweight, quick & plenty strong.


As for fuel pump, could you just jigsaw out a removable access panel and use a router to cut a lip for locating it? Something like you see on the right.

View attachment 3648440
This is genius, I'm going to go this route. Thanks for posting it!
 
This is genius, I'm going to go this route. Thanks for posting it!
Good stuff, keen to see how it goes.

Keep the carpet in to avoid rattles.

Buy some alu flat bar. Again, cheap, lightweight & only 1 - 3mm thick. Drill holes through to align with the factory seat mounting points. 6 points, 12 bolts I think.

Attach main sheet to the bar with a few screws.

Drill out an oversized hole through the sheet to fit bolt + socket.

Should give you a flush finish that can be removed in under 60 seconds with an impact driver.

Basic drawing with section below. Not to scale, but gets the idea across.

FLOOR2.jpg
 
Not sure if this will come through in pictures, but you may be able to see the surface variation. There is one tall rib and the indentation for the seat latch that are most conspicuous. I removed all bolts, studs, and seat mount hardware previously.

IMG_6752.jpeg
IMG_6751.jpeg
 
Not sure if this will come through in pictures, but you may be able to see the surface variation. There is one tall rib and the indentation for the seat latch that are most conspicuous. I removed all bolts, studs, and seat mount hardware previously.
Does that taller rib sit proud above the rest?

There are better options, but quick fix sounds like some thin rubber floor matting either side of that rib to pack it out flush.
 

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