Full dash removal - tips/tricks ? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Threads
277
Messages
1,602
Location
Toronto, NSW, Australia
I'm guessing there isn't much difference between LHD and RHD in terms of process for fully removing the dash, but curious about tips/tricks?

Sometime in 2023 I want to get the dash out so I can finally replace the broken air box assembly, but I know it's a really big job.

I expect to find plenty of decayed 'stuff' in the process. Is there anything that should be renewed/replaced out of course when doing anything like a total dash out?

I'll need to be very careful with wiring, etc. since it's my dd vehicle and not a wreck.
 
Biggest difficulty with the dash is keeping track of the hardware. Use the Cardboard and sketch method. Sketch the dash on a large piece of cardboard, then tape or screw the hardware into the cardboard. Helps keep track of everything.

Being that it's a DD, plan on a day for disassembly, and another day to reassemble. You can do it quicker, however, the dash is something you want to take your time on. Most of the plastic is becoming difficult or expensive to replace.

When I pulled both of the dashes I've done, they only take a few hours, however, I worked very slow to make sure I didn't break anything.

Take lots of pictures of the process. Have an organization system that works for you.

There's plenty of while-you're-in-there tasks. Gauge bulbs, checking wiring harness for any rubbing/degradation, dust/grime cleaning, etc. Since you're already replacing the air box, just make sure to clean the vents and ducting well.
If your dash pad is cracked, it would be an excellent time to fix it- the padded dash pad is held on with metal tabs you fold down. Once you bend them to remove the pad, you really risk breaking them.

Maybe consider adding a cabin air filter, depending on what you find.
 
Last edited:
If I was pulling the dash on my rig I would either replace the heater core or remove it and clean it well.
 
I pulled a dash from a scrap yard 80 a couple years ago and sold it to another kind mud member. Not being an 80 guy at the time, I do recall it being tricky. I doubt highly I could put one back in without some good instructions. There were lots of hidden bolts and tabs/clip and some things definitely need to be done in sequence. Coming out is one thing, but as mentioned above, going back in, be detailed, probably take pictures... lots of pictures and label things as they come out. probably not being a stoned idiot would help too... or is that just me?
 
You may want to replace the expansion valve as well if you weren't already planning on it
 
Good suggestions above.

Maybe plan on doing it when you have more than two days if it's your DD and only vehicle.
If you're gonna do a bunch of 'while your in there', that stuff takes time.

Also, if you get the dash back in with no spare hardware left over, you definitely did something wrong! :lol:

Any time I've taken a dash out, there'll be loads of fine dust and fibre accumulated on the top surface of everything. Have a shop vac handy, and consider a dust mask
 
X2 as heater core refresh/replacement
The airbox assy has a heater core in it. Used though. New ones are NLA as genuine.
 
The airbox assy has a heater core in it. Used though. New ones are NLA as genuine.
Pull the core in it and have it cleaned and pressure tested before you install it.
 
Trim removal tools, like this or similar, are invaluable. One of the best tool purchases I've made in the past years.

1671290868637.png


The job isn't hard, or even time consuming, but I would recommend using the printed pages of the dash removal section in the FSM while you're working. You'll need to go back and forth between the two fastener ID pages and the page for the section you're removing.
 
I pulled my dash a few years ago to fix a leaking heater core, back when you can still get them. There is one stud on the firewall where the A/C evaporator box and the box that holds the heater core overlap, and the heater core box is the one against the firewall at the stud. The manual says to discharge the A/C so the evaporator can be removed. I found everything for a bit but was able to get the heater core box assembly out without having to remove the evaporator. Wasn't fun through.
I do recall having maybe two screws left over. Just be careful because a lot of the dash parts are getting old and brittle.
I think I used the logic of just pulling gently and finding the next screw that had to come out.

While I had the instrument cluster out I took the time to replace the bulbs and also polish the plastic on the front. I used 3M Lens Polish and Protector

Attached a photo showing the one spot where the air box and the A/C evaporator box overlap.
cruiser1.jpg


Cluster before and after
Cruiser5.jpg

Cruiser6.jpg
 
I pulled my dash a few years ago to fix a leaking heater core, back when you can still get them. There is one stud on the firewall where the A/C evaporator box and the box that holds the heater core overlap, and the heater core box is the one against the firewall at the stud. The manual says to discharge the A/C so the evaporator can be removed. I found everything for a bit but was able to get the heater core box assembly out without having to remove the evaporator. Wasn't fun through.
I do recall having maybe two screws left over. Just be careful because a lot of the dash parts are getting old and brittle.
I think I used the logic of just pulling gently and finding the next screw that had to come out.

While I had the instrument cluster out I took the time to replace the bulbs and also polish the plastic on the front. I used 3M Lens Polish and Protector

Attached a photo showing the one spot where the air box and the A/C evaporator box overlap.
View attachment 3195996

Cluster before and after
View attachment 3195999
View attachment 3196000

Wow, that cluster came up mint!
 
What they said. Heater core (I was able to get mine re-cored relatively locally, but sourcing one is a problem in the US, not sure about there where they are a lot more popular) lose the o-ring and solder the joint, AC evaporator is readily available and not bad, every bulb in the thing. Any switches you want and don't have, factory or aftermarket ? Good time to wire in modern conveniences like USB power or for stereo, wire a backup camera, etc. Also if your truck has been wet or damp inside, a good time to clean up all the surface rust on the uncoated bits under there.. I'm slow and lazy, but I would be scared having my daily down for a while, long holiday weekend ? Oh, PartSouq diagrams help with identifying fasters.

Jason
 
Got a part number for the o-ring? I have a brand new (aussie made) genuine AC evap assy and a used but excellent cond air box assy. AC has never worked in the 12 years I've owned the 80 but if I can sort out the internals that means I can do the externals (engine bay stuff of the AC) later.

For anyone who's pulled the dash, did you find rust/damage/decay anywhere that was otherwise not visible before pulling out the dash? How did you treat it? Did you deal with it yourself?
 
It's this one, not sure there is a part number for it separately. Shop that did my recore looked right at the pipe and said "we'll solder that together" before I remembered to ask them to...

HeaterCoreoRing.png


Jason
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom