OK so the removal of the filler neck from the donor is complete. I must say that it was easy but time consuming. If you go into the job understanding this, it makes the job much easier to accomplish. Here is a list of a few things that might help you should you have to do this job away from your shop or shop area. Many have nothing to do with this job but all jobs.
1. Make sure you have many options to remove bolts including penetrating oil.
I took 3/8s drive short / mid / deep 6 point and 1/2 deep 6 point sockets, standard length and extra long wrenches, and extensions.
2. Be prepared to remove various brackets in order to get to the fastener heads.
I had to remove a bracket in order to get a clear path to the filler connector boot clamp. I had to take the last exhaust hanger by the resonator loose.
3. I can't think of an eloquent or proper way to say it but every time you put a socket or wrench on a rusty bot hit it with a hammer, seat that S.O.B. the sound that the strike makes will change once the socket is fully seated.
4. I have seen videos of people struggling with the rubber hose connector to the tank. This is a wholly unnecessary source of frustration. Make sure that you get to the parts store and purchase a hose pick. Take the hose pick and channel lock pliers with every hose job you do. Run the pick around the hose and use the pliers to spine it back and forth until loose.
4a. Take the to bolts off of the pipe to body bracket.
5. Just go ahead and accept that you are going to loosen the body bolts. I used a half inch breaker bar on top, it wasn't needed for torque strength but easy reach from bottom.(in my case.) I can imagine that you may break a bolt and would need the strength of the breaker bar in that scenario.
6. I jacked the body up with a floor jack and a beam across the back of the body at the rear. As this was a parts truck I did not have to worry about body flex or any type of crushing but there was none at all. Once the body was up I inserted ruff cut blocks of oak between the body and the cross member of the frame in the area that the pipe hangs up on. Keeping in mind that the pipe had already been pulled away from the rubber hoses ( do this before even touching the body bolts,) I simply went to the drivers side rear wheel and pulled the pipe out through the wheel well. At no time where my hands or any tools in between the body and frame or in any location in which they could have become crushed, pined, or cut off.
Standard disclaimer
Protect your eyes.
Protect your ears. In my case I chose to use a impact wrench and had to be under the vehicle for rear body mounts. This is dangerously loud.
Do not cut any metal with any method. IF you are in that scenario you have made a mistake. If you must cut metal drain tank, remove sending unit, let vent for a week and still don't do it.
Do not put any body parts between body and frame.
If in a junk yard do not proceed to the body lift step alone.
Don't try and rush. This removal took me 3 hours with no rushing but I had a head start as the seats and carpet were not in the vehicle.
To be continued when the pipe is homed to
@cc72red s LC.
Shout out to
@lukefj80 for providing the donor vehicle, advice, time, and more than fair price.
Jeremy
