Fuel Gauge Accuracy (1 Viewer)

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How typical is it for the fuel gauge to be inaccurate on the 80 Series when everything "looks" to be in good condition? Trying to determine if I am chasing results that are not realistic before doing the FSM procedure to test everything.

My gauge often says there is less fuel than I really have. At empty on the gauge, I still have 8.6 gallons left based on my last test. That was a 170 mile range after the last fill up and 16.6 gallons to get the tank back to full.

I have not re-tested to wait for the fuel light to come on, although that worked in the past.

I removed the pump this weekend and everything is surprisingly clean. No rusty or deteriorated rubber. Although, it's possible the pump had slipped out of the rubber cushion at the bottom but it's hard to tell if that happened on removal. The float rotates fine and the wiring looks good.

fuel_pump1.jpeg
fuel_pump2.jpeg
 
How typical is it for the fuel gauge to be inaccurate on the 80 Series when everything "looks" to be in good condition? Trying to determine if I am chasing results that are not realistic before doing the FSM procedure to test everything.

My gauge often says there is less fuel than I really have. At empty on the gauge, I still have 8.6 gallons left based on my last test. That was a 170 mile range after the last fill up and 16.6 gallons to get the tank back to full.

I have not re-tested to wait for the fuel light to come on, although that worked in the past.

I removed the pump this weekend and everything is surprisingly clean. No rusty or deteriorated rubber. Although, it's possible the pump had slipped out of the rubber cushion at the bottom but it's hard to tell if that happened on removal. The float rotates fine and the wiring looks good.

View attachment 3382415View attachment 3382416
Slide that little capacitor-looking thing down the rod a little and the light won't come on as quickly. Slide it up and will come on sooner.

You can do the same on the fuel level by bending the float rod. Maybe when someone was in there before, they bent it and messed it up......
 
Slide that little capacitor-looking thing down the rod a little and the light won't come on as quickly. Slide it up and will come on sooner.

You can do the same on the fuel level by bending the float rod. Maybe when someone was in there before, they bent it and messed it up......

Ah, I didn’t think about the rod being bent. I might have to actually test the resistance at the various levels to get this right.
 
Something to think about... the 80 series Fuel Level gauge is setup to have the warning light illuminate when you have 5 gallons left, in the tank, usable. That 5 gallons will get you about 50-60 miles to the next gas station once you've trained your brain not to freak out when the light comes on!

This is designed to get the driver to take note of fuel remaining BEFORE it becomes a problem, and is really very useful once you get used to it. Case in point, I KNOW the tank holds 25.5gal (*US) usable - and I KNOW that the light comes on when I have 5 gallons remaining. A few weeks back, I drove on the fuel illumination warning light for 45 miles, figuring 10-12mpg would leave me with a few gallons left in the tank when I hit my local station where I can redeem fuel points for $0.30/gal discount - on 23+ gallons! I made it without fanfare.

My point is, knowing exactly How much fuel you have left in the tank when the light comes on can be very useful - especially when you're out in the boonies, and about 50-60 miles from civilization in the form of a gas station.

Not saying it's a good idea to run your tank dry (*as the fuel pump is cooled by the volume of gasoline surrounding it acting as a heat sink...), but if you get in the habit of observing when the warning light comes on, measuring How much fuel you have left during refill, etc. - then you're much better prepped with data when you need to estimate range.

tl;dr - it's a feature, not a bug!
 
Something to think about... the 80 series Fuel Level gauge is setup to have the warning light illuminate when you have 5 gallons left, in the tank, usable. That 5 gallons will get you about 50-60 miles to the next gas station once you've trained your brain not to freak out when the light comes on!

Good point. Since I was right on the E mark for about 15 miles, I never actually waited for the light to come on. I guess I had another 9 gallons left at that point. For the next test, I am going to drive farther to test until the light comes on to verify it still works.

Doing the math for the first time after driving the 80 on a regular basis, I guess I am surprised I am going to be filling up every 175-200 miles.
 
I average 11.5 MPG for the last 3 years and approx 55K miles.

My E needle is well below the E when the light comes on.

I try to make a note of my odometer when the light comes on. Since I swapped my tank (due to the dreaded crack), the float and sensor only come on when I have 3 gallons left in my tank (used to be 5). I know this and I still push my limits.

Yes, I have literally rolled into a gas station, dead, at least 5 times. I have found that after the first time it dies, I can make it about another 1.5 miles by immediately bumping it into neutral, coasting as far as I can, restart, hammer it, then shut it off, lather, rinse, repeat. (unless I'm going uphill)

Yeah, go ahead and bag on me about how I hate my fuel pump...... with 348K miles on it.......
 
@BILT4ME - man, that's an impressive fuel pump. I sure hope mine is whatever Toyota installed to get that kind of longevity.

Sounds like I am going to be thankful the sender works at all and call this somewhat normal behavior. If that needle will go below E and the light works, there's my extra/hidden 8-9 gallons.

Thanks for the help figuring this out.
 
Same here; needle well below "E" when the light comes on. The dance starts when you see the light first start to glow, then grow dimmer, then go out. A few miles later, it starts whispering to you again.

When the light is on steady, I start counting miles. I have 5 gallons = 50 miles at 10mpg (*worst possible, uphill, against the wind, A/C full blast, me driving like a drunken teenager) before I'm gliding to the right shoulder.

Let the game begin, Toyota... Your move,...
 
I always avoid (where possible) letting the fuel get low enough to trigger that light as its no good for the fuel pump if it starves, costs a hell of a lot to fill :( and pushing these things should you run out is not that easy....
 
I always avoid (where possible) letting the fuel get low enough to trigger that light as its no good for the fuel pump if it starves, costs a hell of a lot to fill :( and pushing these things should you run out is not that easy....
Where's the excitement in THAT?

It will cost you the same, whether you fill it up or only put in 5 gallons.

I am optimizing my filling times........

They roll surprisingly easily......
 
factor in payload because my reserve goes quick!- full rack, armor , tire carrier, awning, big ass duffel of tools, 37" tires... I carry a jerry can specifically bc I don't know how much life I have at the E light...I'd love to see 12mpg!!!
 
Typical Toyota fuel gauge be like

1st quarter = 200 miles
Middle two quartes = 50 miles
E = Errrrrrrrrm, we're good for another 50 miles :meh:
Red-light = another 30 miles or Oh shìt! depending on how your day is already playing out :lol:
and if you only drive steep uphills they show a little more fuel in the tank :)
 
and if you only drive steep uphills they show a little more fuel in the tank :)

Or, if it's like the digital read out in my Ford work hack, then 40km range = 40km if it's downhill only. If it's uphill to the servo, you're shìt outta luck! and doing the walk of shame :rolleyes: :bang:
 

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