Fuel Filter Replacement? Yes? No? (3 Viewers)

[super90]

Yes, change it ! Don't be so lazy folks.

In the OPs case at 160k, the original filter would have had to have seen over 10,000 gallons of fuel. No way that little filter wouldn't need to be changed by then.

It's easy ( this isn't an 80-series !!) , and it's cheap, and like any filter it need to be changed periodically.

 

[DirtDawg]

I know this is an older post but I have a fuel filter question. I am changing mine this weekend. What sort of pressure is built up in there? I am planning on having a larger sized hose to drain any run off into a fuel can. Other than that is it just bolt off the old and bolt on the new? Any nuances to look out for?
Thanks!

Shouldn't be much pressure, just a little. Probably won't be able to use a hose, not that much gas leaks out. I just used some paper towels stuffed around it when I swapped mine. Very easy filter change, bolt off the old one, put new one off and drive.

 

[jbuswim]

Ok sweet, thank you very much!

 

[hoser]

Old filter was R&R'd some time ago from the 100, drying out. So I decided to cut it open. 140k of mostly CA fuel...

 

[flintknapper]

I've seen a few picture in mud of the tops cut off. But they didn't show much other than paper & metal from sawing.

Anyone have some picture they care to share here, that would be cool to see?

Edited:
I just did a search and found some picture in this thread that sold me: IN HERE

Here ya go. From my LX470 with 186k

My advice to everyone : CHANGE THE DAMN THING!

I don't care what they look like on the OUTSIDE, mine looked like this:

Another shot of the 'inside'!

Now, from my 80 series:

The amount of contaminants your filter has/will trap is indeed dependent upon the quality of the fuel (and the vessels holding it) that you get it from. But its not hard to get a tank of 'bad' fuel especially if you fill up while the tanker truck is right there dumping fuel. That is when sediment in the underground tanks is most likely to be stirred up and suspended in the fuel. There are filters at the pumps, a filter sock on your fuel pump and of course your in-line fuel filter, yet fine particles still manage to get in the system. It doesn't take but one event, if bad enough.

It can't hurt (every few years) to simply replace it. Those who say 'its a waste of money'.....give new meaning to the term 'cheapskate'! Cut yours open...and IF you are satisfied it was not necessary then (and only then) determine what replacement time table is appropriate for YOU. But for folks to make blanket statements like (its a lifetime filter, I have XXX miles on mine its fine, its a waste of money, etc) is just crazy IMO. It doesn't reflect everyone's situation.

A saturated fuel filter will have an effect on fuel delivery. Why would anyone 'wait' until your fuel pump is 'whining' against the restriction?

 

[abuck99]

I've read the FSM and it says to disconnect the line back by the tank to reduce the system pressure. Is this necessary? Seems over complicated.

Would you mind posting up the few steps you took to swap out and in the filter.

Thx

 

[RootMeanSqr]

I have replaced mine twice, and honestly didn't follow any procedure. Didn't even relieve pressure in the line. That being said, I don't think I replaced it right after driving it either.

If you really want to, you can relieve fuel pressure by disconnecting fuel pump connector underneath vehicle near rear driver door, and running engine until it runs out of fuel and dies. Otherwise you'll just get some fuel spillage when disconnecting lines.

Fuel filter is located in engine bay, on driver side wheel well, direct access, no other parts in the way. Just remove the clip and hose, then use box wrench (or adjustable/crescent wrench) and remove the high pressure line from the other end, then unbolt from the wheel well (2 bolts). Install is reverse order.

Seriously 10 min job. Maybe 15 if you've never done it before. No other parts in the way.

 

[abuck99]

Cheers thanks

 

[flintknapper]

I've read the FSM and it says to disconnect the line back by the tank to reduce the system pressure. Is this necessary? Seems over complicated.

Would you mind posting up the few steps you took to swap out and in the filter.

Thx

Yes, un-necessary and over complicated.

I held a rag over the quick disconnect on the filter and caught the little bit of fuel that came out. There wasn't much pressure at all, certainly nothing to be worried about. IF you disconnect the line anywhere below the point of the fuel filter itself, then any fuel remaining in the line (from the filter back) is going to drain out.

It doesn't make sense to disconnect the line anywhere except at the highest point.

 

[Spike555]

Remove fuel pump fuse while engine is running, engine stalls, turn off ignition, put fuse back, replace filter, no fuel pressure at all, just drips from fuel being in the filter and fuel lines.
I bought my fuel filter off Amazon, it is a WIX, it was $18 shipped.
I changed it at 155,change, I will change it again at 200,change.
I use only Top Tier fuel.

 

[landylover21]

I change mine every spring, OEM is reasonably priced and it's easy to access. Right now I have a NAPA Gold (Wix) on there that I got at a discount. I figure it's cheap insurance so it's worth it.

 

[hankinid]

I change mine every spring, OEM is reasonably priced and it's easy to access. Right now I have a NAPA Gold (Wix) on there that I got at a discount. I figure it's cheap insurance so it's worth it.

Same here. All filters get replaced, as do fluids. NAPA here has half-off on filters twice a year...$20-ish if iirc. Stupid simple to replace.

Yes, change it ! Don't be so lazy folks.

In the OPs case at 160k, the original filter would have had to have seen over 10,000 gallons of fuel. No way that little filter wouldn't need to be changed by then.

It's easy ( this isn't an 80-series !!) , and it's cheap, and like any filter it need to be changed periodically.

I'm used to wrenching on light aircraft. Filter changes are required and not skipped. Reason is simple...see the flintknappers pics below. If I were working on a plane with a fuel filter that looked like that, I'd automatically start blowing / flushing / or replacing lines and hose, pulling the tank and dumping and flushing and re-sloshing the tank...or simply find a new one. Owner would be having chest pains as I explain the estimate. Scheduled replacement doesn't guarantee zero corrosion, but it helps by giving you a small preview of beginning corrosion. Not to mention that in-flight engine failures are way too stressful. ')

Here ya go. From my LX470 with 186k

My advice to everyone : CHANGE THE DAMN THING!


Another shot of the 'inside'!

 

[bctlex]

I change mine every spring, OEM is reasonably priced and it's easy to access. Right now I have a NAPA Gold (Wix) on there that I got at a discount. I figure it's cheap insurance so it's worth it.

Have you ever cut the filter open and see what the inside look like? I am curious how dirty it gets since you replace them every year. I think mine has about 30K now (have to dig the receipt from previous owner to be sure).

 

[landylover21]

Have you ever cut the filter open and see what the inside look like? I am curious how dirty it gets since you replace them every year. I think mine has about 30K now (have to dig the receipt from previous owner to be sure).

No, but I will next time I change it just to see!

 

[PADDO]

Any side by side comparisons between, say WIX 33875, and OE? I've stuck with OE because I know they fit, their filtration efficiency and characteristics are known and they are good for a long long time. Curious to hear from others who've changed to non OE.

 

[abuck99]

I've had that filter sitting on my bench for 2 months & finally installed it today. I don't think there is any need to pull the FP relay. When I pulled the quick disconnect off (I was ready for a spray) and there wasn't even a drip. Unscrewed the input line and just a little dribble of back flow from the filter itself. Much easier than I expected.

The Toyota part I ordered 23300-50090 came as an assembly; bracket & filter. Does the filter come separately from Toyota or always sold as an assembly?

 

[Spike555]

Any side by side comparisons between, say WIX 33875, and OE? I've stuck with OE because I know they fit, their filtration efficiency and characteristics are known and they are good for a long long time. Curious to hear from others who've changed to non OE.

As long as you use a name brand you'll be fine.
Remember that Toyota does not make their own filters, fuel or otherwise, they are made by the lowest bidder.
Same with fluids, yes everything is made to meet their specs and min quality, but just because it says Toyota means nothing.

 

[hoser]

Unless I have concrete evidence that brand-x performs better than Toyota, I shy away. That part about Toyota and the filters being made to their specs and minimum quality is exactly why I choose them . Fram oil filters is a big name brand. I would not recommend to anybody.

 

[sean2202]

Interesting that the fuel filter is so easily accessible and yet Toyota calls it a lifetime part. ....
@hoser I hope that Fram doesn't make our Toyota filters.! I have heard chit chat about rebranding fram as other Japanese OEM filters

 

[flintknapper]

Interesting that the fuel filter is so easily accessible and yet Toyota calls it a lifetime part. ....
@hoser I hope that Fram doesn't make our Toyota filters.! I have heard chit chat about rebranding fram as other Japanese OEM filters

I guess someone will have to show me where Toyota calls it a "lifetime" part?