Front Wheel Binding, Front Driveshaft Removed (1 Viewer)

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While you're in there check the spindle for wear near the end (where the outer bearing rides). If the outer bearing was loose for awhile that can form
a step (depression) in the tube that shouldn't be there (from the hub rocking in and out). IME it's found running between 3 and 9 O'clock along the underside of the spindle tube in line with the outer bearing.

You probably already know this but FWIW if your running larger tires people go higher with the preload than the FSM specifies.

Point is, if your spindles have a significant wear step the bearing preload won't hold no matter which method you use (IME).
 
How much grease was in the hub around the locking nuts? Those locking nuts hold the wheel bearings. This should be a fairly greasy mess. If it was clean, the bearing could be bad however my guess is there's a problem with the birfield since the problem only happens when turning. A bad bearing would cause problems going straight. A bad birfield could have problems turning or going straight.
Hi @lumbee1 there was plenty of grease. I lifted the front this am and spun the wheels in all positions. There was no sudden binding or grinding. I have a set of front bearings (i think). Maybe I'll take the others out and check them. I would think that any binding would occur consistently, but maybe truck has to be under load and under way for it to happen. I still have to check the rear, but am 99% sure it's coming from the front. It also seemed to be both sides yesterday before I removed the front driveshaft. I wonder if I damaged my front t-case. 🧐 It has plenty of gear oil in it.

Is it possible to cause this kind of damage by overfilling the grease in the balls?

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Hi @lumbee1 there was plenty of grease. I lifted the front this am and spun the wheels in all positions. There was no sudden binding or grinding. I have a set of front bearings (i think). Maybe I'll take the others out and check them. I would think that any binding would occur consistently, but maybe truck has to be under load and under way for it to happen. I still have to check the rear, but am 99% sure it's coming from the front. It also seemed to be both sides yesterday before I removed the front driveshaft. I wonder if I damaged my front t-case. 🧐 It has plenty of gear oil in it.

Is it possible to cause this kind of damage by overfilling the grease in the balls?

View attachment 3984851
Is it possible to cause this kind of damage by overfilling the grease in the balls?

No, the extra grease will come out in the wipers.

You might have some big chunks bouncing around the front differential. That could cause binding but it would occur with both wheels at the same time. If it's occurring with only one wheel, I would disassemble that wheel first and examine wheel bearings and birfield.

Another test to try is lift the front of the Cruiser and spin the wheels as fast as possible by hand to see if binding occurs.
 
Try to relax a little bit.
You’re working yourself into a panic.
You’ll figure it out; most likely not going to be the catastrophe you’re envisioning.
 
If you are using the trail gear lock system which it sounds like, you have to change out the two set screws, I posted about this in like 2017, do a search and posted pic of the set screws to use that you can get from hardware store for 30 cents. The ones that came with the kit are rubbing the drive flange, I believe they clear if you are running locking unlocking hubs
 
Oooooookay. If anyone is reading this in the future, saying, that's what's happening to me! What was the answer? I think I have my answer. At least, I have one pretty significant answer. I'll be putting the front drive shaft back on this week, then we'll find out if I have all the answers.

Question: what makes you think it's your front wheels that are binding?
Answer: well, because it happens when I turn the wheels.
<bad buzzer sounds> incorrect.

The rear differential on my truck had black fluid in it. I know it was fresh back in July. What happened? Well, I pulled the cap off the breather tube because I saw somewhere someone said on some forum that you don't need them. I guess you do need them. The sky rained in my rear differential, for about two months, while I was driving it.

I drained it. Filled it. And I'm currently driving it again, and the wheels are not binding. So, it might not have been the front wheels at all. We'll see when I put that driveshaft back in. Right now she drives like an old Cadillac or a Lincoln.
 
Oooooookay. If anyone is reading this in the future, saying, that's what's happening to me! What was the answer? I think I have my answer. At least, I have one pretty significant answer. I'll be putting the front drive shaft back on this week, then we'll find out if I have all the answers.

Question: what makes you think it's your front wheels that are binding?
Answer: well, because it happens when I turn the wheels.
<bad buzzer sounds> incorrect.

The rear differential on my truck had black fluid in it. I know it was fresh back in July. What happened? Well, I pulled the cap off the breather tube because I saw somewhere someone said on some forum that you don't need them. I guess you do need them. The sky rained in my rear differential, for about two months, while I was driving it.

I drained it. Filled it. And I'm currently driving it again, and the wheels are not binding. So, it might not have been the front wheels at all. We'll see when I put that driveshaft back in. Right now she drives like an old Cadillac or a Lincoln.

I'm glad you found something, but i don't think that's it!! Wheels binding and rear differential operation aren't mutually inclusive, but only time will tell !!
 

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