front tow hooks (1 Viewer)

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Yes, the difference with the stock units is that they've actually been tested to failure. As a system. So if things were to go south, it fails in progressive fashion. The fuse analogy is a great one.

There's an old post by a Nasa engineer about the front tow hooks. The OEM 200-series unit is stronger than the Tundra unit to both tow and tie down forces. For reasons of stacked thickness at the critical bolt junction between the tow hook and tie down flanges. More compact dimensions resulting in less leverage. Also more off-roading clearance.

Time and again, as parts are critically compared to between the Tundra and 200-series, it's generally the 200-series that has been engineered to a higher degree with more strength and durability where it counts. Physical beef can be misleading as there's more to strength than just size.
 
They are adequate for what they were designed for. Tie downs or pulling someone out of ditch is fine.

Are you saying they are adequate to pull the vehicle out of a mud hole with both axels buried? They have a limit.
Yes. They are great recovery point. You can do a heavy snatch in mud or sand bogged down from these points. More stress than a winch.

They are designed as a recovery point. They are cheap to replace if you hit one. The loop is for recovery. Not to tie it down to a ship or truck during delivery. The plate on top of the recovery loop with the hole is the tie down point for shipping. That is not for recovery.

I have one in stock just in case. Rather replace something that bends and breaks over an aftermarket product that is so strong if it takes a good hit it causes damage to the mounting area. Now you have some serious issues. Especially if you have a front bumper that uses the OE recovery points as an anchor point.

The recovery points are in the owners manual. And the tie down points for transportation.
 
Yes, the difference with the stock units is that they've actually been tested to failure. As a system. So if things were to go south, it fails in progressive fashion. The fuse analogy is a great one.

There's an old post by a Nasa engineer about the front tow hooks. The OEM 200-series unit is stronger than the Tundra unit to both tow and tie down forces. For reasons of stacked thickness at the critical bolt junction between the tow hook and tie down flanges. More compact dimensions resulting in less leverage. Also more off-roading clearance.

Time and again, as parts are critically compared to between the Tundra and 200-series, it's generally the 200-series that has been engineered to a higher degree with more strength and durability where it counts. Physical beef can be misleading as there's more to strength than just size.
So you're saying the salesperson that sold me the red set and the chrome ones was less than truthful? :rofl:
 
Just for anyone observing, obviously what was done here worked, but if possible it is better to pull in drive than reverse. Keeps the diffs using the stronger sides of the gear teeth.

This isn’t always possible, but something to strive for if you have time/room.
 
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Toyota autobody (factory rally team) seems to have a slightly different approach.
 
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View attachment 2808087Toyota autobody (factory rally team) seems to have a slightly different approach.
They likely don’t have the crash bar in there.. not sure if they are allowed to modify the frame but those hooks seem to line up pretty well with the horns that the crash bar and most bull bars mount from.

Off the top of my head I imagine the stock hooks may not work well when the front is buried in sand at the bottom of the steep side of a dune, for example.

I wonder what Monica is running? @cruiseroutfit ?

This reminds me of the thread where we were looking for close up pics of the Dakar trucks.
 
I guess my supposition is that the factory parts work perfectly for what they were designed for which (I can only guess) doesn't include offroad recovery. Fit for a purpose, but maybe(?) not designed for the one some of us use them for. Otherwise, why not just use them on the race trucks?
 
I guess my supposition is that the factory parts work perfectly for what they were designed for which (I can only guess) doesn't include offroad recovery. Fit for a purpose, but maybe(?) not designed for the one some of us use them for. Otherwise, why not just use them on the race trucks?
Like I said they are mounted quite low, and this just might not work for the range of recovery situations the Dakar trucks find themselves in.

Plus it’s possible there are regulations on things like recovery points.

Even if toyota wanted to put these hooks on the consumer vehicle they probably can’t due to crash structures and likely pedestrian safety regulations.
 
Yeah the rear one works for that too.


That is not stuck in deep mud, just some one who drove out on a wet dry lake.

People like that tear up the dry lake creating deep ruts where other going out and have fun during the dry season hit these ruts and wipe out.
That is not cool.
 
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Not really a dry lake yet, was right on the shore of lake mead. He was stuck up to the frame.

I had to do 5 or 6 pulls before I got him out.
 
Thanks @gajin

Do you happen to have a part number for the tundra tow hooks?

Also, the holes for the bolts look smaller. Or is that just an illusion?

thx!

Grumvee

Hey @Grumvee here's the part number for that tow hooks -

Toyota 51960-0C011 Hook, Front


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Hey @Grumvee here's the part number for that tow hooks -

Toyota 51960-0C011 Hook, Front


View attachment 2916051
I have a pair that I’ll sell. Blasted and powder coated black, I then too coated with red paint prior to install. Later took off and installed Kaon hooks.
 
WHY ignore the owner's manual which says to ONLY use the factory hooks for basic short distance, flat towing????? As tbisascs said and even pointed to the owner's manual, above. Ignoring very good advice from a very good source (Toyota) when safety is an issue is not prudent at all, it's a very poor choice and not smart. Folks get killed and maimed recovering improperly.
 
*Thanks* for whoever pointed to the KAON (from Australia) site. GREAT tow hooks, with rounded edges, plus they have many other off roading "doodads", all great quality it appears. Solved several issues for my 200, again thanks.
 
Do the front tow hooks on a 200 Series really need to be upgraded ? I see the ARB ones are available.

I know better to have and not use than need to use and not have.

Thanks
No, they do not. The ARB ones look great and may be useful if your vehicle weight is significantly higher than standard but the stock ones work.
 
WHY ignore the owner's manual which says to ONLY use the factory hooks for basic short distance, flat towing????? As tbisascs said and even pointed to the owner's manual, above. Ignoring very good advice from a very good source (Toyota) when safety is an issue is not prudent at all, it's a very poor choice and not smart. Folks get killed and maimed recovering improperly.
Do not confuse recovery points with tie down points. The factory recovery points work. The tie down points don’t for anything but tie downs.

In the US we also have risk managers and tort lawyers. Toyota USA would recommend that Land Cruisers are only to be used for on pavement mall crawling if they could.
 
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WHY ignore the owner's manual which says to ONLY use the factory hooks for basic short distance, flat towing????? As tbisascs said and even pointed to the owner's manual, above. Ignoring very good advice from a very good source (Toyota) when safety is an issue is not prudent at all, it's a very poor choice and not smart. Folks get killed and maimed recovering improperly.
Toyota has very good lawyers, and smart lawyers assume the general public are complete ****ing idiots. They aren’t completely wrong.

These hooks have a proven track record of surviving recovery use, and, were designed by engineers to attach to the frame of the vehicle in a way that assumes certain forces would be applied.

WHY ignore the force levels the engineers designed the frame attachment points to handle????? Or are we assuming they designed the points to have aftermarket hooks attached to them?
 
I do use the arb ones, but I have yet to see anyone pop off the factory OEM ones when recovering a vehicle.

Has anyone see an example of the OEM ones coming apart or off?
 
IMO, the factory recovery points are full performance. Arguably, IMO, they're more thoroughly designed. For tie down, recovery, low profile, rounded edges, etc.

If the forces are going to be seriously high, than a bridle to engage both recovery points should be used.
 

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