front tow hooks (1 Viewer)

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Teckis, you’re an engineer type so you may be able to answer my question? You mentioned bridling the tow hooks to spread the load but I’m assuming too short a bridle would cause increased forces of its own? What would be the minimum length of a bridle to remove significant “side shear” forces?
 
Teckis, you’re an engineer type so you may be able to answer my question? You mentioned bridling the tow hooks to spread the load but I’m assuming too short a bridle would cause increased forces of its own? What would be the minimum length of a bridle to remove significant “side shear” forces?

 
The real question is what spray paint should I get to paint my OEM hooks…..

Are there hooks/tie points on the rear as well? I haven’t even looked.
There should be a hook and tie down similar to the front on the passenger side rear near the trailer wire hookup. Only on that side.

The loop is shaped differently than the front ones, angled down, likely to help a recovery rope/strap clear the bumper skin. As a result, in terms of pure strength I'd say this single loop isn't as strong as the front ones.. but we have no real idea how much force even those can withstand, nor truly how much force is involved in different recovery scenarios.

Either way, even if it is strong enough, it isn't centered. Given the availability and low cost of trailer-hitch recovery adapters, I'd go with one of those, personally.

I even sought out one that has the hitch pin hole drilled both the usual horizontal as well as vertically so it can be turned sideways if needed for a side pull/anchor and still keep the shackle in the correct loading orientation.

Now personally if I were doing a side anchor, I'd consider running my lifting sling through a wheel and avoid putting the forces on my panhard rod.. but maybe we shouldn't open the recovery techniques can of worms here.
 
You can add another factory hook to the driver side rear, it will bolt right up. 51095-60020
 
Just double checked mine.. definitely not as strong as the front. The rear loop doesn't have the thick metal L shaped bracket that increases the strength of the front loop attachment points by clamping the base plate against the frame and distributing the force over a larger area.

I'll stick with my hitch adapter, personally.
 
Just double checked mine.. definitely not as strong as the front. The rear loop doesn't have the thick metal L shaped bracket that increases the strength of the front loop attachment points by clamping the base plate against the frame and distributing the force over a larger area.

I'll stick with my hitch adapter, personally.
you can add the L tie down bracket too. 5196860020
 
There should be a hook and tie down similar to the front on the passenger side rear near the trailer wire hookup. Only on that side.

The loop is shaped differently than the front ones, angled down, likely to help a recovery rope/strap clear the bumper skin. As a result, in terms of pure strength I'd say this single loop isn't as strong as the front ones.. but we have no real idea how much force even those can withstand, nor truly how much force is involved in different recovery scenarios.

Either way, even if it is strong enough, it isn't centered. Given the availability and low cost of trailer-hitch recovery adapters, I'd go with one of those, personally.

I even sought out one that has the hitch pin hole drilled both the usual horizontal as well as vertically so it can be turned sideways if needed for a side pull/anchor and still keep the shackle in the correct loading orientation.

Now personally if I were doing a side anchor, I'd consider running my lifting sling through a wheel and avoid putting the forces on my panhard rod.. but maybe we shouldn't open the recovery techniques can of worms here.
Not sure if these ever became publicly available, but Safe X-Tract has a pretty cool soft shackle friendly receiver recovery point:
1666117753392.png
 
If that Safe X-Tract isn't, Factor 55 has the HitchLink Pro made for use with soft shackles and drilled to be used both vertically and horizontally


HitchLink_Pro2.0.jpg
 
Teckis, you’re an engineer type so you may be able to answer my question? You mentioned bridling the tow hooks to spread the load but I’m assuming too short a bridle would cause increased forces of its own? What would be the minimum length of a bridle to remove significant “side shear” forces?

Agree on too short of bridles and @bloc 's linked vid covers it well. To my earlier post, most aftermarket recovery points seem to project the recovery loop further forward of the bolts than stock. And when there's off axis pulls, whether a bridal or other recovery scenario, or even pulls from further up or down of the recovery point, invites more moment forces.
 
I'll add my $.02 here. Brennan Metcalf makes a great soft shackle hitch receiver. I have one of his earlier models and they are awesome if you are looking to save a little weight. Work of art actually.


 
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I'll add my $.02 here, Brannon Metcalf makes a great soft shackle hitch receiver. I have one of his earlier models and that are awesome if you are looking to save a little weight. Work of art actually.


That is a beautifully designed and machined part.. I may jump on that simply to support the artist.
 
Purchased, because it looks to be a fine piece of work.
 
Purchased, because it looks to be a fine piece of work.
Same, just realized it comes with a 7/16" sleeved soft shackle too!
 
Looks like a clever design, but if I am seeing it right, it only fits in the receiver in one orientation, which can be a hassle if your tackle isn't aligned right, requiring additional items in the system to rotate it. I've seen this when using a snatch block off the receiver anchor in a spanish burton recovery.
 
Looks like a clever design, but if I am seeing it right, it only fits in the receiver in one orientation, which can be a hassle if your tackle isn't aligned right, requiring additional items in the system to rotate it. I've seen this when using a snatch block off the receiver anchor in a spanish burton recovery.
Talking about the Brennan part? The top and sides are radiused so the soft shackle can pull any direction without damage. I haven’t looked at snatch blocks in ages but the older ones would need a bow shackle to prevent damage to a soft shackle..
 
Yes, the Brennan part.

The axis of the anchor works best if on the same axis as the snatch block. Without being aligned in the same axis, you need to introduce additional tackle to align them. At least the way I was taught (by a I4WDTA instructor).

Not sure what others use, but I have soft shackle specific snatch blocks from AEV.

With the anchors that have vertical and horizontal pin holes, you can rotate 90 degrees to suit the recovery scenario.
 
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Hey all. I have ironman bumper and factory points are blocked by the bumpe mount.Any sugestion whst yo buy?
 
Hey all. I have ironman bumper and factory points are blocked by the bumpe mount.Any sugestion whst yo buy?
I think @afgman786 had the same situation and went with the low profile ones made by @turbo8

 
I think @afgman786 had the same situation and went with the low profile ones made by @turbo8

He's right @Lexmar that's the route I went
 

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