front royal corrosion control?

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stinkytevas

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anyone on here own the 100 on the front royal corrosion control's site?
was just looking at their site and it seems like it may have been posted to their FB in august.
just looking to see if it was a good experience etc.
seems like it may be worth doing if you, like me, are not the type to stand under your rig for hours with airtools
 
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stinkytevas said:
anyone on here own the 100 on the front royal corrosion control's site?
was just looking at their site and it seems like it may have been posted to their FB in august.
just looking to see if it was a good experience etc.
seems like it may be worth doing if you, like me, are not the type to stand under your rig for hours with airtools
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No experience with Front Royal corrosion control, but if it's an undercoating service I've had better luck with self-applied fluid film/woolwax/PB than Ziebart at a much lower cost. I have been doing it on our cars since 2019 and don't mask anything or take particular care, but try not to spray exhaust, boots, or brakes. I did our 4runner when we brought it home in Feb '22 and is does not have any rust at all including the weld seams and cast parts left in the white from the factory.

An undercoating gun and 30 minutes is plenty of time if you've got a compressor that is sufficient so that you're not constantly waiting for it to catch up. It'll take a bit longer if you're pulling fasteners to get into the quarter panels, etc. All the lanolin vapor sucks, though.
 
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They apply a proprietary mix of something similar to woolwax/lanolin on vehicles. The OP mentioned that they aren’t the type to DIY

I bought a lift from the guy. Thinking about opening up something similar in Harrisonburg
 
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bkfj40 said:
They apply a proprietary mix of something similar to woolwax/lanolin on vehicles. The OP mentioned that they aren’t the type to DIY

I bought a lift from the guy. Thinking about opening up something similar in Harrisonburg
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Fair, I did not read it that close.

I will double down on the wax based coatings over hard coat. Having used PB Surface Shield, Woolwax, and Fluid Film, I would rank them in that order.

PB has a good combination of properties- flow best on application, OK smell, and adheres very well when dry. Woolwax adheres well, but flows poorly unless hot, and the smell is least offensive of the three. Fluid film flows very well but washes off the easiest and smells terrible for days.
 
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mgrs said:
Fair, I did not read it that close.

I will double down on the wax based coatings over hard coat. Having used PB Surface Shield, Woolwax, and Fluid Film, I would rank them in that order.

PB has a good combination of properties- flow best on application, OK smell, and adheres very well when dry. Woolwax adheres well, but flows poorly unless hot, and the smell is least offensive of the three. Fluid film flows very well but washes off the easiest and smells terrible for days.
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Sounds like good first hand knowledge. Thanks.
 
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I sent an inquiry in for a quote to do a Tundra. Will report back.

I've applied woolwax myself with a spray gun and compressor. It's a messy job so I'd be curious to know the cost and extent of detail a commercial shop would charge.
 
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Im here today truck is on their lift as I type this reply. They quoted me $600 as the truck is rust free from Georgia and didn’t need any descaling done, there was however a lot of mud up under neath it. They quoted me an extra hour of labor to bring the truck outside put it up on ramps and pressure wash every nook and cranny clean. They then brought it in, blew all the water out of all the crevices, did an anti salt wash to neutralize anything that may be in there hiding and are coating is now. They do the entire undercarriage, wheel wells, fill the rockers and cab corners, frame inside and out, are going inside of my aftermarket bumpers etc. they don’t do the engine trans, or transfer cases or exhaust. They say it last about 5 years on a daily driver and this is a weekend warrior so probably much longer.

For reference when I was shopping for 100’s I looked at a nova truck that had been coated he said 2.5 years ago and it still looked immaculate underneath which is how I heard about them. Also they are now Edinburg corrosion control as they closed their front royal location. They are right near Peter’s mill for reference. I have them taking before and after photos and will post them here once the truck is done.
 
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nautiquelover said:
So $600 is the basic amount for very little prep work? I’m curious to see how it turns out.
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Sounds like that is their base price, which to me personally, not have to roll around on my back in my drive way for who’s knows how many hours, pressure washing, cleaning and attempting to coat every little nook and the cranny of the truck myself is worth the money and peace of mind knowing I’m protecting my vehicle from looking like all these other northern trucks. But that’s just me
 
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Extremely happy with the results and the guys that own/operate the place. 10/10 would recommend and for me the money spent is worth the peace of mind, headaches saved and time I would have spent doing his myself.
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@kouki wow! you had considerable latent mud and grime stuck to that underside in the before photos...that's pretty cool that they are able to use that starting point and finish like that. Did you get to see it after the cleaning? After photos look impressive. :)
 
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kevin in okinawa said:
@kouki wow! you had considerable latent mud and grime stuck to that underside in the before photos...that's pretty cool that they are able to use that starting point and finish like that. Did you get to see it after the cleaning? After photos look impressive. :)
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They did a really good job. Unfortunately I wasn’t allowed in the shop under the lift for insurance reasons so they guy doing the work took these for me and text them too me.

prharper said:
Looks amazing.
Did you find out what product they used? Lanolin based w black tint?
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It is a lanolin based product that can be clear or tinted black, your choice.
 
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Cruiserhead05 said:
Seems like money well spent, even if it only lasts 2-3 years. Protecting the vehicles resale value alone seems like a good "investment" to me.

Just try and knock out all the undercarriage work you've got planned beforehand though. Wrenching on that immediately afterwards would not be fun.
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Exactly my thought process, and thankfully I did just that, recently rebuilt the front end completely, driveline maintenance up to date, says it’s cures fully in 30-60 days. He also said on a daily driver it lasts about 5 years so as a weekend warrior I’m hoping for a lot longer
 
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