Front panhard?

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Joined
Apr 20, 2020
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Location
Washington
Quick search didn’t seem to bring up much relevant. How do you know when you need a front adjustable panhard rod? I’m running about a 4” lift with Slee arms and the Delta rear panhard bracket. No real handling quirks that I can point to just drives like a lifted wagon on 37s. What are people’s real world experiences?


Mike
 
Is your front axle centered? I am on a 4" lift and needed adjustable panhard to center the front axle.
Nothing more to it.
 
I have Slee 4” heavies up FR - my lift needed the adj panhard esp because I was binding the coils of the spring on 1 side against the flared cup of the bumpstop.

Even having cut the metal flare off, you could still hear a light rub of the inner coil to the cup IIRC & the panhard shoved the axle so now at full flex nothing rubs.

But I also swapped to @landtank ‘s Plates from Slee - the whole handling on-pavement thing was back to full neutral rotating the axle on the centerline when you’re in the 4+” lift zone.
 
With a Dobinson 3.5" lift (really 5" lift) it was pretty clear I needed a front panhard bar. The driver's side wheel was at least 1" further out compared to the passenger side I purchased a Whiteline adjustable panhard and installed to fix it.

Toyota provides a tool to install and fine tune the adjustable panhard length.
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With a Dobinson 3.5" lift (really 5" lift) it was pretty clear I needed a front panhard bar. The driver's side wheel was at least 1" further out compared to the passenger side I purchased a Whiteline adjustable panhard and installed to fix it.

Toyota provides a tool to install and fine tune the adjustable panhard length.
View attachment 2968732
That is a great idea!!!
 
With a Dobinson 3.5" lift (really 5" lift) it was pretty clear I needed a front panhard bar. The driver's side wheel was at least 1" further out compared to the passenger side I purchased a Whiteline adjustable panhard and installed to fix it.

Toyota provides a tool to install and fine tune the adjustable panhard length.
View attachment 2968732
How has that Whiteline bar held up?
 
How has that Whiteline bar held up?
This is the Whiteline front adjustable panhard bar and it has been fantastic. I've got their heavy duty rear swaybar as well. I built my own rear panhard bar for about $30 many years ago.
 
I'm installing the ome suspension since I'm doin the ls swap. I wonder if you really need the front and rear adjustable panhards. Curious, will you have any driving issues if you don't use them? Anyway, I will probably get the panhard rods below. Also, what is the purpose of the front coil spacers?
Screenshot 2024-03-28 at 10.02.50 PM.png
Screenshot 2024-03-28 at 10.06.18 PM.png
 
I'm installing the ome suspension since I'm doin the ls swap. I wonder if you really need the front and rear adjustable panhards. Curious, will you have any driving issues if you don't use them? Anyway, I will probably get the panhard rods below. Also, what is the purpose of the front coil spacers? View attachment 3593210View attachment 3593211Checking update on panhard on Amazon. Did you see a difference in driving?
 
Front coil spacers just add extra lift without changing springs.
Like stated before adjustable panhard recenter axle after I left.
Probably drive fine without it.
But some like me are bothered with one tire, sticking out and one tire sticking in the fenderwells
 
I have a problem with adjustable links that keep axles under the truck.
If you're prototyping a suspension system, then that's a good idea. If you're not, then either weld it in place after adjusting, or have custom bars made.
Just my opinion, but I've seen adjustable links come apart on the trail, and it makes a mess.
Fwiw, I run OEM panhards with a 4" lift. It's a non issue.
Also keep in mind that the axles are constantly moving left and right as the suspension flexes during normal driving.
 
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Keep in mind the that a lifted 80 with a stock panhard bar will have the axles pulled away from center in opposite directions at ride height.
As the suspension cycles (drops out) it gets worse possibly Pulling the bushing past there intended misalignment and causing them to wear out faster.
With a adjustable panhard Adjusted correctly, the control arms will be centered at ride height and bushings will be in a neutral position.

six figure ultra4 cars run adjustable links without issue. Just like everything else, they need to be torqued to spec and checked on occasion to make sure they don’t come loose.
Personally, I’ve been running adjustable panhards front and rear for nearly 10 years without issue.
I check them regularly just like the knuckle bolts and other critical hardware on my 80.
 
I have a problem with adjustable links that keep axles under the truck.
If you're prototyping a suspension system, then that's a good idea. If you're not, then either weld it in place after adjusting, or have custom bars made.
Just my opinion, but I've seen adjustable links come apart on the trail, and it makes a mess.
Fwiw, I run OEM panhards with a 4" lift. It's a non issue.
Also keep in mind that the axles are constantly moving left and right as the suspension flexes during normal driving.
I agree. I run a bracket on the back and I sleeved/welded the front bar.
 
Keep in mind the that a lifted 80 with a stock panhard bar will have the axles pulled away from center in opposite directions at ride height.
As the suspension cycles (drops out) it gets worse possibly Pulling the bushing past there intended misalignment and causing them to wear out faster.
With a adjustable panhard Adjusted correctly, the control arms will be centered at ride height and bushings will be in a neutral position.

six figure ultra4 cars run adjustable links without issue. Just like everything else, they need to be torqued to spec and checked on occasion to make sure they don’t come loose.
Personally, I’ve been running adjustable panhards front and rear for nearly 10 years without issue.
I check them regularly just like the knuckle bolts and other critical hardware on my 80.
Oh no. You mean the bushings that are designed to flex are flexing slightly out of range in certain temporary circumstances? I might have to replace them in another 10 years. Whatever shall I do?

And I'll hazard a guess that the 6 figure ultra4 cars are not using off the shelf products like IronMan or Slee. They also disassembled and inspected after every run.

And yes I'm being a d*ck and yes I understand your comments and yes they are valid, but to a point.
I don't like the idea of threaded adjustable links for suspension components. It makes me very uncomfortable and gives me a painful itchy rash.
 
Oh no. You mean the bushings that are designed to flex are flexing slightly out of range in certain temporary circumstances? I might have to replace them in another 10 years. Whatever shall I do?

And I'll hazard a guess that the 6 figure ultra4 cars are not using off the shelf products like IronMan or Slee. They also disassembled and inspected after every run.

And yes I'm being a d*ck and yes I understand your comments and yes they are valid, but to a point.
I don't like the idea of threaded adjustable links for suspension components. It makes me very uncomfortable and gives me a painful itchy rash.
We have been down this road before.
I will say it again your very knowledgeable and very helpful on the board and I respect that.
at the same time this is a forum and we’re all entitled to our opinions!
A threaded sleeve is a threaded sleeve.
I also understand that some of the people that come here are looking for knowledge and don’t possess the same knowledge that you and I do.
In my opinion, if you have a 4 inch lift and you leave your axles out of center and they drop down another 4 inches. They pass their design parameters.
I’m only running a 2 inch lift and I’m already on my second set of bushings. I have also seen what those bushings look like, when the axle drops out it’s not pretty and it’s definitely wearing them out faster.
So go ahead and be DI*K and I will do my best to help people with knowledgeable information.
Cheers😎
 
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While I would never run threaded LCAs or UCAs I do sell threaded joints for the panhards and use them myself. The only threaded panhard that I can remember failing is a complete assembly and it failed at the weld at the eye to rod.

The bushings in the panhard are aligned with the flex travel so the bushings take all the strain as it does in stock form.
 
Since I am too lazy to start another thread right now, it looks like I have got a good knowledge pool already watching and arguing in this one and it is already drifting a little bit... I have an adjustable panhard bar on hand here that needs new bushings. The bushings are NOT OEM Toyota. A factory unit is smaller by enough that it will simply fall through with barely a rattle when you turn it vertically.

(I am also too lazy to walk back to the shop and measure it if I do't have too) :bah:

Just trying to save a bit of searching and phone calls. Anyone happen to run across these?

This is an older bar. Purchased new at least 20-25 years ago. IIRC, the last time I checked with Slee, their bars used OEM bushing and I *thought* that OME did too. Haven't looked into anyone else's products yet.

Edit: In case my rambling was not clear. I am trying to figure out who made this so I can order some of their (apparently proprietary) bushings. :(


Mark...
 
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