Front Main Seal Swap - P/Ns, Tools, and WIINThere...? (1 Viewer)

jaymar

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Time to deal with that oil leak. Will also be replacing radiator. Things to do while I'm in there? P/Ns if you have them? Unusual tools needed? (I'm guessing most of these parts haven't been touched since 1995.) Thanks!

PARTS

There's @NLXTACY's

80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit that comes with:

• OEM Oil Pump Cover o-ring (15188-66020)
• Distributor o-ring (90099-14118)
• Front engine seal (90311-52022)
• (7) M6-1.0 x 12mm Stainless Steel Screws
• Sil-Glyde grease (to keep the o-ring in place)
VESSEL 3-bit Kit (to remove the old screws)
• 1/4" 4mm hex bit (for new screws)
• Oil level sensor gasket (90430-27001)
• 2" PVC pipe cap to install crank seal

Beno says the timing cover (any good reason to mess with that?) is fixed to the block with FIPG, 2 rubber o-rings and a rectangular ring:

00295-00103
11328-66020
96721-24022
96761-24042

Radiator will be anodized, would like to do the same with supports. Anyone have P/N's on the radiator supports and the rubber washers/isolators?

One of the big rad hoses has different diameter ends; anyone know which one that is with P/N? Already replaced all with Gates GS, but that one is a b*tch and I don't wanna do that again.

TOOLS
I believe it's a 30mm impact socket needed for the crank bolt? (No extensions b/c slippage? What about deep socket?)
Three Harbor Freight 3/4-inch breaker bars (in case one or two break).
Rope to tie breaker bar to frame.
Then there's that 305-ft-lb torque wrench to tighten the bolt back up.

Any resident physicists have specs on the drop-height of a 230-pound guy on a breaker bar of x length to achieve 305 ft-lb torque?

What is advisability of standing on the thing to tighten to roughly 250, then driving to shop for more precise tightening? Don't wanna be renting torque wrench for days if the job drags out...
 
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The hose is the lower radiator hose (number 3 hose), P/N 16573-66010. The large end is the radiator connection; the engine side is the same as the upper radiator hose. I would suggest replacing the clamps too: 90466-41008 (x3), 90467-43002 (x1)

I would also recommend replacing the fan nuts; someone always manages to put a breaker bar on them and round off the flats: 90179-08040 (BTW, these are listed as EGR nut OR XMSN control cable nut, and there are about a bajillion of them on the truck; they also retain the thermostat housing). Buy a dozen; you can thank me later.

Short of a really fantastic impact wrench, the only way I know of to get the crank bolt off is to drop the truck on the breaker bar. I guarantee it'll work, and if you do it slowly, it won't even break the bar. I would suggest 1-inch bar, if you can find one. Use your neighbor's if you can't.

As far as generating the torque, rent a torque multiplier.
 

jaymar

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The hose is the lower radiator hose (number 3 hose), P/N 16573-66010. The large end is the radiator connection; the engine side is the same as the upper radiator hose. I would suggest replacing the clamps too: 90466-41008 (x3), 90467-43002 (x1)

I would also recommend replacing the fan nuts; someone always manages to put a breaker bar on them and round off the flats: 90179-08040 (BTW, these are listed as EGR nut OR XMSN control cable nut, and there are about a bajillion of them on the truck; they also retain the thermostat housing). Buy a dozen; you can thank me later.

Short of a really fantastic impact wrench, the only way I know of to get the crank bolt off is to drop the truck on the breaker bar. I guarantee it'll work, and if you do it slowly, it won't even break the bar. I would suggest 1-inch bar, if you can find one. Use your neighbor's if you can't.

As far as generating the torque, rent a torque multiplier.
Torque multiplier? Google, here I come.

As to loosening the bolt, was thinking to put a breaker bar on it and tap the starter. Wonder if dropping truck on it would exert unwanted side-force...
 
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Starter bump worked for me to loosen the crank bolt. TexasKnowHow has a great video on YouTube on the oil pump cover, and I think he covers the front main seal. I think you'll want an offset seal puller to pull the front main seal out. Google that or look on Amazon, widely available.
 
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I have had good luck with using a electric 1/2 inch impact gun from snap on. No extensions on it just socket, hold the pulley with leather glove on your hand. on last one I did it took it a sec then zipped it right off. Have also done starter bump. To reinstall I have used impact socket jammed into the fly wheel with big torque wrench.
Also don’t lose the little key that is in the crank make sure it stays in its home or remove and reinstall when your ready to put pulley back on.
 
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Torque multiplier? Google, here I come.

As to loosening the bolt, was thinking to put a breaker bar on it and tap the starter. Wonder if dropping truck on it would exert unwanted side-force...
No, you're only trying to overcome about 120-130% of the installation torque as break-away torque. The worst damage will be to the floor, if you don't pad the end of the bar. That's my professional engineering opinion and I come by it honestly.
 

Nframe

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Impact socket (deepwell 14 mm if I remember right) through the flywheel cover works fine for loosening, without all the drama.
 

MoJ

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Impact socket (deepwell 14 mm if I remember right) through the flywheel cover works fine for loosening, without all the drama.
Just don’t forget to remove it before restart. It’s been done.
 
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A Makita 1/2 cordless impact will remove the bolt, and torque it right up to 300 ft lbs. I know the HF torque wrench I bought hardly turned the bolt after the Makita ran it in. Didn't think I went that crazy on it either.

BTW, I have the Makita XWT11Z, only supposed to do 210 ft lbs. It punches above its weight class for sure.
 

davidp14

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3 hf 3/4" breaker bars is 2 too many. I've used mine once for this job and its sat in my tool cabinet ever since. Same for the 30mm 3/4 socket.
Still a fraction of the cost of paying someone to do it.

Starter bump works (that's what I did) but a safer way would be @OTRAMM 's. Crank holding tool.

Also 12pt socket will slip on the flywheel bolt. Make sure you use a 6pt.

Only Other advice; don't guess on the torque for cs bolt reinstall. I rented a 500lb torque wrench for $16 for half a day. Well worth the peace of mind IMO.
 

jaymar

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3 hf 3/4" breaker bars is 2 too many. I've used mine once for this job and its sat in my tool cabinet ever since. Same for the 30mm 3/4 socket.
Still a fraction of the cost of paying someone to do it.

Starter bump works (that's what I did) but a safer way would be @OTRAMM 's. Crank holding tool.

Also 12pt socket will slip on the flywheel bolt. Make sure you use a 6pt.

Only Other advice; don't guess on the torque for cs bolt reinstall. I rented a 500lb torque wrench for $16 for half a day. Well worth the peace of mind IMO.
Guy who's done a lot of these told me he's snapped multiple HF breaker bars and to have more than one on hand, just in case. (I'm guessing it's the joint that breaks.) Will look into OTRAMM tool as well. Thanks!
 
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