Time to deal with that oil leak. Will also be replacing radiator. Things to do while I'm in there? P/Ns if you have them? Unusual tools needed? (I'm guessing most of these parts haven't been touched since 1995.) Thanks!
PARTS
There's @NLXTACY's
80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit that comes with:
• OEM Oil Pump Cover o-ring (15188-66020)
• Distributor o-ring (90099-14118)
• Front engine seal (90311-52022)
• (7) M6-1.0 x 12mm Stainless Steel Screws
• Sil-Glyde grease (to keep the o-ring in place)
• VESSEL 3-bit Kit (to remove the old screws)
• 1/4" 4mm hex bit (for new screws)
• Oil level sensor gasket (90430-27001)
• 2" PVC pipe cap to install crank seal
Beno says the timing cover (any good reason to mess with that?) is fixed to the block with FIPG, 2 rubber o-rings and a rectangular ring:
00295-00103
11328-66020
96721-24022
96761-24042
Radiator will be anodized, would like to do the same with supports. Anyone have P/N's on the radiator supports and the rubber washers/isolators?
One of the big rad hoses has different diameter ends; anyone know which one that is with P/N? Already replaced all with Gates GS, but that one is a b*tch and I don't wanna do that again.
TOOLS
I believe it's a 30mm impact socket needed for the crank bolt? (No extensions b/c slippage? What about deep socket?)
Three Harbor Freight 3/4-inch breaker bars (in case one or two break).
Rope to tie breaker bar to frame.
Then there's that 305-ft-lb torque wrench to tighten the bolt back up.
Any resident physicists have specs on the drop-height of a 230-pound guy on a breaker bar of x length to achieve 305 ft-lb torque?
What is advisability of standing on the thing to tighten to roughly 250, then driving to shop for more precise tightening? Don't wanna be renting torque wrench for days if the job drags out...
PARTS
There's @NLXTACY's
80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit that comes with:
• OEM Oil Pump Cover o-ring (15188-66020)
• Distributor o-ring (90099-14118)
• Front engine seal (90311-52022)
• (7) M6-1.0 x 12mm Stainless Steel Screws
• Sil-Glyde grease (to keep the o-ring in place)
• VESSEL 3-bit Kit (to remove the old screws)
• 1/4" 4mm hex bit (for new screws)
• Oil level sensor gasket (90430-27001)
• 2" PVC pipe cap to install crank seal
Beno says the timing cover (any good reason to mess with that?) is fixed to the block with FIPG, 2 rubber o-rings and a rectangular ring:
00295-00103
11328-66020
96721-24022
96761-24042
Radiator will be anodized, would like to do the same with supports. Anyone have P/N's on the radiator supports and the rubber washers/isolators?
One of the big rad hoses has different diameter ends; anyone know which one that is with P/N? Already replaced all with Gates GS, but that one is a b*tch and I don't wanna do that again.
TOOLS
I believe it's a 30mm impact socket needed for the crank bolt? (No extensions b/c slippage? What about deep socket?)
Three Harbor Freight 3/4-inch breaker bars (in case one or two break).
Rope to tie breaker bar to frame.
Then there's that 305-ft-lb torque wrench to tighten the bolt back up.
Any resident physicists have specs on the drop-height of a 230-pound guy on a breaker bar of x length to achieve 305 ft-lb torque?
What is advisability of standing on the thing to tighten to roughly 250, then driving to shop for more precise tightening? Don't wanna be renting torque wrench for days if the job drags out...
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