Front Hub Bearing Tips and Tricks? (1 Viewer)

[srgould41]

I found a little play in a front wheel bearing again so I am going to check both sides this weekend. In the past I have struggled with keeping the inner nut from turning when I torque the outer nut. This also results in the tab on the locking washer shearing off. Are there any tips or tricks to get the inner nut to stay in place while torquing the outer nut?

 

[duncanrm]

If the inner nut is turning when you tighten the outer nut then it was too loose to begin with.

 

[srgould41]

Got new nuts and lock rings as well as a fish scale to use that method on the inner nut. I am surprised at how much tighter the inner nuts were to get the resistance I was looking for. I went with 12 to 14 lbs. There are so many bad articles, posts, and videos with methods from hand tightening the inner nut to torquing to a specific amount. Some of those methods might be OK for a purely street driven rig, but not one that sees serious loads at all angles. I'll see how it looks next winter when I do my annual repack.

 

[65swb45]

I’ve said this a hundred times: The FSM is not the Bible: YMMV.

I am currently in the same boat as you. Put new WBs in my 45 last month before I went to Death Valley. Rig got me there and back without issue. Hop on the fwy a few days later and I’ve got ye old death wobble. Pull off and check the wheel bearings. Bingo, they’re loose. So, under the category of YMMV, I got 550.

 

[srgould41]

I agree the FSM is not a bible. It gives good advice, though.

My worst experience was coming back from a snow wheeling trip a couple years ago and my 40 started to jerk to one side. It was icy out so I figured it was the driving conditions. It got steadily worse so I pulled over. The left front wheel hub was smoking hot. I jacked it up and the wheel moved in and out at the top about 4 inches. Called for a tow. The bearings were powder so the wheel was riding on the bearing shells. I'm now hyper sensitive and test the play every other trip. That's how I caught a slight click in one side two weeks ago. I may need to buy some new spindles in the near future to be safe.

I’ve said this a hundred times: The FSM is not the Bible: YMMV.

I am currently in the same boat as you. Put new WBs in my 45 last month before I went to Death Valley. Rig got me there and back without issue. Hop on the fwy a few days later and I’ve got ye old death wobble. Pull off and check the wheel bearings. Bingo, they’re loose. So, under the category of YMMV, I got 550.

 

[SteveH]

I found a little play in a front wheel bearing again so I am going to check both sides this weekend. In the past I have struggled with keeping the inner nut from turning when I torque the outer nut. This also results in the tab on the locking washer shearing off.

I can hardly imagine the tab on the washer between the inner and outer wheel bearing nuts shearing off when tightening the outer nut. Was it old/tired? You might just need a new lock washer. They are cheap. You shouldn't need to torque the heck out of the lock nut, either, since both it, and the adjusting nut, are retained by the tabs bent over each way (inward and outward).

I would still follow the FSM adjusting procedures on this. My FJ40 (and many other Toyotas) have ridden on the original wheel bearings for hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[Tancruiser]

I just want to know what ymmv means maybe I’m old and dumb but what language is that.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

your mileage may vary

 

[Indestructible 47]

How do the experienced guys here tiggten these nuts? As in how tight? I have the fsm and will be doing a knuckle job next week and saw this thread....

 

[srgould41]

I was not talking about the big tabs. The tab I was referring to is the little finger on the inside diameter of the lock ring that aligns with the spindle groove and helps keep it in place.

I found a little play in a front wheel bearing again so I am going to check both sides this weekend. In the past I have struggled with keeping the inner nut from turning when I torque the outer nut. This also results in the tab on the locking washer shearing off.

I can hardly imagine the tab on the washer between the inner and outer wheel bearing nuts shearing off when tightening the outer nut. Was it old/tired? You might just need a new lock washer. They are cheap. You shouldn't need to torque the heck out of the lock nut, either, since both it, and the adjusting nut, are retained by the tabs bent over each way (inward and outward).

I would still follow the FSM adjusting procedures on this. My FJ40 (and many other Toyotas) have ridden on the original wheel bearings for hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[srgould41]

There are quite a few threads with a variety of methods. Here are three worth reading.

Wheel Bearing; FSM Torque to Light or just Right.

Tip: Three most important or overlooked procedures when doing wheel bearing. Set preload to 9.5 to 15 lbf on fish scale. Use care on direction of travel and angle of scale of/to wheel hub. Check snap ring gap and use new snap ring of proper thickness to achieve gap.

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Inner Nut Torque Front Wheel Bearing Preload?

I have read anywhere from 10 ft/lbs to 25+ ft/lbs for the preload of front inner wheel bearing nut. Is there a correct setting or are people just doing different torque setting for personal preferences?

forum.ih8mud.com

How do the experienced guys here tiggten these nuts? As in how tight? I have the fsm and will be doing a knuckle job next week and saw this thread....