Front Drive Shaft grrrrrrrrr findings so far. .

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OK, so i yanked on my shaft :flipoff2: and i couldn't get it to wiggle. Even with it on the bench there doesn't seem to be any play. I only got just the slightest amount of play when i took it off after driving down the highway for 40 minutes.

I took pics of the flanges. So, if i can grab the flange and try in any direction to move it, there should not be any movement, correct? Because i aint got none. So i guess that's a good thing.
output flanges 001 (Small).webp
output flanges 002 (Small).webp
 
I hope you guys don't think i'm dumb about this. What really threw me off was the stinking tie rod hitting the control arms. See, what has me a bit puzzled is it seems that i have some axle movement. I'm sure some is normal, but i seem to have a good half inch.

I noticed the tie rod hitting the control arms when i first installed the castor plates. So, i added a Mr. Gasket spacer which changed the ride height, thus the pinion angle just enough to get the tie rod off the arms. I figured problem solved. Well, now it appears that the tie rod is touching again. I have crawled under the truck on many occasions over the past couple of days. What i have found is that some times the tie rod is a good half inch away from touching. Then next time i crawl under, it's touching. Now a slight confession, i have not welded the plates yet. I kept thinking i was going to get the slee 6 inch lift some time soon, which hasn't happened and i didnt want to have to cut the plates off and make a job out of it. Do you think that the plates are causing that much movement?
 
A spring spacer will not affect tie rod to leading arm relationship. As the steering wheel is turned the tie rod clearance will very.
 
Tools R Us said:
A spring spacer will not affect tie rod to leading arm relationship. As the steering wheel is turned the tie rod clearance will very.
Click to expand...


I will look at this. Interesting point. I just assumed that the plane would remain constant or proportional just not sure which ;p . I thought that where the tie rod mounts on the back of the knuckle would always be an equal distance during it's range of movement during articulation, given that the axle doesn't bow. I understand their movement inward and outward, but not up and down.
 
As the steering arms turn the tie rod moves closer to the axle, with the steering centered the tie rod will be closest to the leading arms.
 
Ok.....

Yes, its late, it dark....i think im crazy but i just strapped 100 lbs. onto the very front of the ARB, i think ow is the best time to go drive around, not mayn people on the road so less chance of any problems. Lets hope i live to tell ab out it afterwards.
Question though, lets say i drive for a little, let it warm up still no grr at all..none. What does this mean, obvious its the lift causing the problem but does it "for sure" mean i need a double cardan?

I'll be back in a few...
 
Alright,

I just got back, 90 lbs on the front and the grr is 99% gone. Teh truck rides alot quiter now.....so, as i asked above, what does this mean? time for a double cardan or should i use the 400 for a slee shaft and put it towards a warn 12k, some huge lightforces, and heavy recovery shackles to hang on the front to weigh it down.....
 
Yes i do have the standard medium OME lift. My ride height measures 23.5 inches bottom of flare to center of hub in the front and right at 24 inches in the rear.
 
I have an OME 2.5 lift with all heavy springs, i have caster correction bushings in the front. ARB bumper on the front with no winch, stock on the rear.
 
I thought it was my front drive shaft for a long time and it turned out to be my rear shaft. Actually, it was both because the front shaft had a bad U joint
 
romer,

concrete and i both have just put new U-joints in for the front and rear driveshafts with no change at all.
 
Also part of my problem was the slider had moved up and was in contact with the pinch weld. That made some noise as well.
 
concretejungle said:
I hope you guys don't think i'm dumb about this. What really threw me off was the stinking tie rod hitting the control arms. See, what has me a bit puzzled is it seems that i have some axle movement. I'm sure some is normal, but i seem to have a good half inch.

I noticed the tie rod hitting the control arms when i first installed the castor plates. So, i added a Mr. Gasket spacer which changed the ride height, thus the pinion angle just enough to get the tie rod off the arms. I figured problem solved. Well, now it appears that the tie rod is touching again. I have crawled under the truck on many occasions over the past couple of days. What i have found is that some times the tie rod is a good half inch away from touching. Then next time i crawl under, it's touching. Now a slight confession, i have not welded the plates yet. I kept thinking i was going to get the slee 6 inch lift some time soon, which hasn't happened and i didnt want to have to cut the plates off and make a job out of it. Do you think that the plates are causing that much movement?
Click to expand...


This thread is getting hard to follow! Questions... Did you do the castor correction plates and lift at the same time???? Have you tried just removing the plates and remounting to stock holes???? This will move your pinion angle more direct to he trnsfr output.

just a thought. makes a bit of sense as when the truck was lowered the trnsr output lowered toward the pinion flange (In the vertical plane here). I am suspect that the castor plates have put you pretty far into positive castor with your lift height.
 
concretejungle said:
OK, so i yanked on my shaft :flipoff2: and i couldn't get it to wiggle. Even with it on the bench there doesn't seem to be any play. I only got just the slightest amount of play when i took it off after driving down the highway for 40 minutes.

I took pics of the flanges. So, if i can grab the flange and try in any direction to move it, there should not be any movement, correct? Because i aint got none. So i guess that's a good thing.
Click to expand...

So did you drive w/o the shaft installed? Did it still grrrrr? Maybe I missed that part, but seems that might help eliminate the tie rod/control arm ar the culprit.


Cruiserhead05 said:
I have an OME 2.5 lift with all heavy springs, i have caster correction bushings in the front. ARB bumper on the front with no winch, stock on the rear.
Click to expand...

I have the identical setup; grrrr included. Myself and six passengers got rid of the grrrr completely. I think we may need to contribute to Christo's Christmas fund soon.
 
Six passengers...rear driveshaft is the culprit maybe?
 
Pretty sure it's coming from the front. When I removed it, the noise went away. It's a nice day... I'll go drive around and double check.
 
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