what axles? rear disks?
from where....
sorry, hijack over.
from where....
sorry, hijack over.
Front Disk Brake Upgrades?
- Thread starter DirtyLittleSecret
- Start date
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I just got ahold of a rear FJ62 axle with disk conversion. It's GM stuff (TSM.) They took old GM brakes and bored out the center to fit onto our axles. It can be done. Pics are in my SOA prep thread right now.
ntsqd
technerd
I understand that desire, but I've seen posts on going to various larger bore m/c's w/o rear discs.
IME going to larger bore to satisfy the needs of the brakes that do maybe 20% of the high speed work is going at things the wrong way. Make the fronts work the way you want (pedal feel & travel distance), then chose and adjust the choice of the rear parts to work without changing the front set-up. Because of the inter-relatedness of the front & rear systems I realize that it isn't as easy I as I make it sound, but it is the correct priority sequence - it just may take several iterations to get there. Toyota doesn't hit it spot-on the first time, every time with a new vehicle. They will have to try different combo's in the prototype stage. No reason to think that we will get it right first time out of the box.
It's local brake/suspension parts warehouse that also sells retail. Your local non-chain retail parts places get some or most of their stock from local to semi-local warehouses, could be they're listed in the yellows. They may or may not want to sell to you, but they might be willing to pull parts for you to look at.
FWIW the GM 14BFF drum brakes are the same way about being in adjustment. Can't believe how good those brakes can get when they're adjusted correctly. And contrary to the parts installed, they really do not self-adjust.
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I installed a 1" bore Minitruck MC when I did the 4Runner caliper upgrade, and it was fantastic as far as pedal travel and feel. I still had the stock drums, which I had broke down and inspected to make sure they were still well within limits as far as wear, and properly adjusted.
Then when I upgraded to rear discs, the pedal feel was still okay, but travel was more than I cared for. This was with Eldorado calipers (with the built in ebrake). I'm now using Monte Carlo calipers, which appear to have a larger bore than the Eldo calipers, which increased pedal travel even more. Unfortunately, I don't believe there is a larger bore Toyota MC available that will bolt onto our boosters.
While rooting around the intertubes, I saw that Sky Manufacturing sells a Toyota/GM adapter that allows you to install a GM MC from a hydroboosted vehicle onto the Toyota vacuum booster (I'm figuring that the pushrod length is what's dictating the need for a hydroboost MC as opposed to one from a vacuum boosted vehicle. Anyhow, I looked at the different GM MCs available that should be compatible with the adapter, and found one for an '86 1-ton that has a 34mm bore. It sounds large, but there are smaller (and yes, even larger) bores available, so I figured since that's about middle of the road, I'd use that as a starting point. I'm going to try the adapter with the 34mm bore MC and eee how well it works. Like you said initially, the key is to finding the right MC for the front brakes, and then going from there. For gradual, low speed stops I'm not concerned about front/rear brake proportioning, but for situations where I'll have to dynamite my brakes, I'll leave my Wilwood proportioning valve installed on the rear line so that I don't get rear wheel lockup before the front even engage.
It'll be a trial-and-error process, but I'm hoping the end result will be the best brakes you can end up with on a 60 series, properly proportioned and everything.
Is an LSPV used when you have rear disks? Something I haven't considered.
I could be wrong, but I thought that the T-100 MC was a bolt on deal and was even larger than the 4Runner.
That being said, I put the 4Runner calipers in the front, rebuilt the rear drums, and am using the stock MC. Works just fine on my 33s.
That being said, I put the 4Runner calipers in the front, rebuilt the rear drums, and am using the stock MC. Works just fine on my 33s.
ntsqd
technerd
The key is when you get the front brakes working the way that you want, and it'll potentially be somewhat masked by the rears falling down on the job, to then find a rear caliper with a piston size that puts the hydraulic balance of the system pretty close. You can tune a too-large rear caliper down with a p-valve, but you'll be giving up some flexibility on the system. If you tune it to work well at trail speeds it'll be too much rear brake at highway speeds. I believe that the better the hydraulic match of the rear caliper, the less proportioning needed. There will probably almost always need to be some, but the best is to use as little as possible. That means that the fluid volume needed is as low as possible resulting as short of a pedal travel as the maximum hydraulic leverage can offer.
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most of these vehicles are 20 yo PLUS, double check your rubber hoses, I found all of mine to be cracking and one to be disentigrating internally,
I put 4 runner calipers on 6 months ago, it was an ok upgrade,, my axel oil seals started leaking and then my calipers locked up,,,bad MC, I said F it, and decided to replace all of it at the same time so I would know it was done right at the same time,,,
new calipers
new pads
new ss lines
new rotors
I decided that that meant I should replace the ss lines too,,,
I replaced them all with ss lines, 92 4 runner calipers upfront, wagner top of the line pads, ( I bought the shoes but just needed adjusting) and even though I bled them properly I can still stop my 33's from 70mph VERY fast,,, a WHOLE lot faster than new LC calipers, I did not replace the cylinders, but did replace some springs in the rear that were either missing or disintigrated
my op check the rubber lines first then second replace the calipers for 4 runner calipers
I put 4 runner calipers on 6 months ago, it was an ok upgrade,, my axel oil seals started leaking and then my calipers locked up,,,bad MC, I said F it, and decided to replace all of it at the same time so I would know it was done right at the same time,,,
new calipers
new pads
new ss lines
new rotors
I decided that that meant I should replace the ss lines too,,,
I replaced them all with ss lines, 92 4 runner calipers upfront, wagner top of the line pads, ( I bought the shoes but just needed adjusting) and even though I bled them properly I can still stop my 33's from 70mph VERY fast,,, a WHOLE lot faster than new LC calipers, I did not replace the cylinders, but did replace some springs in the rear that were either missing or disintigrated
my op check the rubber lines first then second replace the calipers for 4 runner calipers
We just got an 86 HJ60 lately, I put new calipers and pads on the front and redone the rear brakes. Now she stops on a dime.
I have ran toy calipers in the rear of my fj40 and an 89 Toy truck. I hate the rear brake setup on those toy trucks where the adjusters are at the bottom and doing the 60 rear brakes for the first time, IMO , thats a lot better setup.The auto adjusting is a lot better. But one should check adjustment every few months.
I am still considering putting discs in the rear while keeping the e-brake setup on the 60 .
I have been looking for the supra calipers that will work with the existing e-brake cables to do a rear dics conversion on a friend's toy truck.
I can't seem to get them through the parts suppliers around here. They show pics, but they can't get them.
Once I get my hands on those supra calipers , the 60 will have discs in the rear.
If someone can shed some light on those supra calipers, please do so.
I believe 79-81 surpa calipers are the best candidates for what I am trying to do.
Thnks in advance for any help or insight.
Vic
I have ran toy calipers in the rear of my fj40 and an 89 Toy truck. I hate the rear brake setup on those toy trucks where the adjusters are at the bottom and doing the 60 rear brakes for the first time, IMO , thats a lot better setup.The auto adjusting is a lot better. But one should check adjustment every few months.
I am still considering putting discs in the rear while keeping the e-brake setup on the 60 .
I have been looking for the supra calipers that will work with the existing e-brake cables to do a rear dics conversion on a friend's toy truck.
I can't seem to get them through the parts suppliers around here. They show pics, but they can't get them.
Once I get my hands on those supra calipers , the 60 will have discs in the rear.
If someone can shed some light on those supra calipers, please do so.
I believe 79-81 surpa calipers are the best candidates for what I am trying to do.
Thnks in advance for any help or insight.
Vic
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We're getting pretty far from Dirty's original question which has been answered repeatedly. I'm going to start another thread on the prototype TSM brackets for 60/62 calipers for my FF but haven't made any progress lately (typical). Still looking for smaller calipers with the same mounting specs so I don't have to run a prop valve.
Vic -
You'll prolly have to go through the pull-down menu here but RockAuto has several brands: RockAuto Parts Catalog
Can't tell from the limited pix how the ebrake cable attaches. Note, however, that they're single-piston, floating-frame calipers just like the Eldos & Montes.
Spook50 confided to me in an email that he thinks maybe his ebrake cable setup was the cause of his TSM rear disc park brake failure. Bums me out 'cause I put him onto the Lokar cables he used. Told him Madison Power Systems can make up "simple" brake cables (nowhere as complicated as a 60/62 or late 40).
You'll prolly have to go through the pull-down menu here but RockAuto has several brands: RockAuto Parts Catalog
Can't tell from the limited pix how the ebrake cable attaches. Note, however, that they're single-piston, floating-frame calipers just like the Eldos & Montes.
Spook50 confided to me in an email that he thinks maybe his ebrake cable setup was the cause of his TSM rear disc park brake failure. Bums me out 'cause I put him onto the Lokar cables he used. Told him Madison Power Systems can make up "simple" brake cables (nowhere as complicated as a 60/62 or late 40).
Moby
GOLD Star
FWIW I'm running TLC4x4's Monster Calipers (they are made by SSBC). I bought these before I knew about the 4runner/mini swap. My rear brakes are well adjusted, the system is well bleed (with Super Blue fluid), and I've compensated the LSPV (fj62) for my lift. Stock MC. The Monster calipers still made a noticeable improvement - panic stops now have much less panic involved. Are they worth it over the 4runner/mini calipers? Probably not, but I've not driven those so I can't say for sure.
As a side note the Monsters actually look like they have more wheel clearance than stock. Fit perfectly fine with the cheap-o wheels I was running when I first got them and plenty of room with my current Stockton Explorer 72s in 16x8 with 3.25BS.
As a side note the Monsters actually look like they have more wheel clearance than stock. Fit perfectly fine with the cheap-o wheels I was running when I first got them and plenty of room with my current Stockton Explorer 72s in 16x8 with 3.25BS.
