Front Differential Bushing Replacement - the Easy way! (1 Viewer)

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Will heat help at all?

Unlikely. Threads on the bolts are probably rusted/corroded to some degree, basically causing a corrosion weld.

'Break Away' torque can be hundreds of ft. lbs to get the bolts moving/broken away. You'll literally hear a cracking sound when they break loose.

3/4" breaker bar won't flex on you like a 1/2" one will and also won't break possibly causing you injury. But that doesn't mean you might not still need a cheater pipe (at first). Finding a good place to put your feet against the frame/tire/whatever is key to getting enough pressure on the bar as you have already discovered.

Best of luck and let us know if you prevail. 👍
 
Are these all the part numbers required?
What do you plan to achieve? to eliminate the clunk as much as possible? if "yes" then yes!
 
Are these all the part numbers required?
I'll risk taking the heat and say if you're trying to save some $ and step through more methodically, I would suggest starting with the cushion (#2 on your list). From all the research I did many people thought that was the main culprit. When I did mine I replaced the stoppers just because you have them out anyway, but my original ones were still in good shape. I've seen others note the same experience. The cushion (that's the main lower one you have to hammer out of the front support) definitely was spent, and that one carries a lot of force when shifting. I did not replace the housing support. My experience is not totally scientific because I also replaced the front spline hubs at the same time, but between that and the front bushing it 100% eliminated my clunk. Mileage may vary of course and there are probably many others who did the same and will tell you it wasn't enough. If you're made of money replace all of the parts :hillbilly:
 
I used all the tricks from this thread on the front bushing this weekend (drilling out the core, air chisel, etc) and it was still a PITA. My small pancake air compressor probably isn't sufficient for pneumatic tools. I also spaced and forgot to align the dots/marks, oops.

Probably random chance, but the bushing finally started to move after I applied some PB Blaster.

1717970372667.png


I also used this tool from CruiserPatch with the ball joint press, which got slightly bent in the process.

1717970587415.png
 
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I used all the tricks from this thread on the front bushing this weekend (drilling out the core, air chisel, etc) and it was still a PITA. My small pancake air compressor probably isn't sufficient for pneumatic tools. I also spaced and forgot to align the dots/marks, oops.

Probably random chance, but the bushing finally started to move after I applied some PB Blaster.

View attachment 3651110

I also used this tool from CruiserPatch with the ball joint press, which got slightly bent in the process. Not planning on doing this again, so I'd happily pass this along to a mudder for the cost of shipping.

View attachment 3651112
Ooo, that looks like that would be handy when I go to install the new front bushing for my diff! I'll PM ya.
 
I'd love a source for this information.


@OTRAMM @OGBeno
Do either of you recall seeing this info or is it across the board "two dots in front, one in back"? /sort of sounds dirty now that I type it.

A respected member on the forum that has done a LOT of these was first to notice the orientation. It is not readily understood the reason for it....or if it makes any difference. Only that it IS. So just do it.
 
I wonder if I am the only one who went through all the same trouble to replace these bushings to find out they weren't causing the clunk and not really that worn out in the first place.
I am in the middle of this and really hoping thats not the case..
 
Best I can say is check your front axles for play at the hub first, that was what my problem ultimately was.... 2001lc has a great video for a quick check . Ill post here once im back on my computer
 

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