Front Differential Bushing Replacement - the Easy way!

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Will heat help at all?

Unlikely. Threads on the bolts are probably rusted/corroded to some degree, basically causing a corrosion weld.

'Break Away' torque can be hundreds of ft. lbs to get the bolts moving/broken away. You'll literally hear a cracking sound when they break loose.

3/4" breaker bar won't flex on you like a 1/2" one will and also won't break possibly causing you injury. But that doesn't mean you might not still need a cheater pipe (at first). Finding a good place to put your feet against the frame/tire/whatever is key to getting enough pressure on the bar as you have already discovered.

Best of luck and let us know if you prevail. 👍
 
Are these all the part numbers required?
I'll risk taking the heat and say if you're trying to save some $ and step through more methodically, I would suggest starting with the cushion (#2 on your list). From all the research I did many people thought that was the main culprit. When I did mine I replaced the stoppers just because you have them out anyway, but my original ones were still in good shape. I've seen others note the same experience. The cushion (that's the main lower one you have to hammer out of the front support) definitely was spent, and that one carries a lot of force when shifting. I did not replace the housing support. My experience is not totally scientific because I also replaced the front spline hubs at the same time, but between that and the front bushing it 100% eliminated my clunk. Mileage may vary of course and there are probably many others who did the same and will tell you it wasn't enough. If you're made of money replace all of the parts :hillbilly:
 
I used all the tricks from this thread on the front bushing this weekend (drilling out the core, air chisel, etc) and it was still a PITA. My small pancake air compressor probably isn't sufficient for pneumatic tools. I also spaced and forgot to align the dots/marks, oops.

Probably random chance, but the bushing finally started to move after I applied some PB Blaster.

1717970372667.png


I also used this tool from CruiserPatch with the ball joint press, which got slightly bent in the process.

1717970587415.png
 
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I used all the tricks from this thread on the front bushing this weekend (drilling out the core, air chisel, etc) and it was still a PITA. My small pancake air compressor probably isn't sufficient for pneumatic tools. I also spaced and forgot to align the dots/marks, oops.

Probably random chance, but the bushing finally started to move after I applied some PB Blaster.

View attachment 3651110

I also used this tool from CruiserPatch with the ball joint press, which got slightly bent in the process. Not planning on doing this again, so I'd happily pass this along to a mudder for the cost of shipping.

View attachment 3651112
Ooo, that looks like that would be handy when I go to install the new front bushing for my diff! I'll PM ya.
 
I'd love a source for this information.


@OTRAMM @OGBeno
Do either of you recall seeing this info or is it across the board "two dots in front, one in back"? /sort of sounds dirty now that I type it.

A respected member on the forum that has done a LOT of these was first to notice the orientation. It is not readily understood the reason for it....or if it makes any difference. Only that it IS. So just do it.
 
I wonder if I am the only one who went through all the same trouble to replace these bushings to find out they weren't causing the clunk and not really that worn out in the first place.
I am in the middle of this and really hoping thats not the case..
 
Best I can say is check your front axles for play at the hub first, that was what my problem ultimately was.... 2001lc has a great video for a quick check . Ill post here once im back on my computer
 
For the bushing in the front diff I have the bolt but not the big washer. It is causing play in my mount even when I have replaced the entire cover. I need to source the big washer that slides on the bolt screen in this photo. Anyone have a part number?
front diff bushing hardware 100 series - Google Search.webp
 
Best place I found over a decade ago and still is today, for diagrams and parts numbers: www.partsouq.com Make sure to, input your VIN#
 
Just a follow up for anyone in my situation and doesn’t have the lower washer. Your diff bushings will not get tight and will have play without it. Picture of the lower washer and bolt part numbers is attached. Mine was replaced previously by a shop and the washer was not put back. This is why my bushing has worn out twice since. You need this lower washer, don’t install your diff bushing without it!

IMG_0347.webp
 
my car is clunking like hell when i put it into drive. and when i go from coasting to on the gas on the highway. Is there any downside to just leaving the clunk?
 
"The easy way".....A therapeutic cringe photo for my OCD friends.

Leave old bushing contraption in with worn and destroyed rubber missing from the bottom, raise differential and attach a brilliant wire-in-hose bushing. Seems to work very well absorbing diff movement for several years now. I have done it the hard way and this easy way. Can't tell any difference in designed performance.

Although a rare occurrence, I think the Japanese may have over thunk this one.
(Said in jest, hope I'm never arrogant enough to think I know more than LC designers or LC mudders)

IMG_2831.webp
 
"The easy way".....A therapeutic cringe photo for my OCD friends.

Leave old bushing contraption in with worn and destroyed rubber missing from the bottom, raise differential and attach a brilliant wire-in-hose bushing. Seems to work very well absorbing diff movement for several years now. I have done it the hard way and this easy way. Can't tell any difference in designed performance.

Although a rare occurrence, I think the Japanese may have over thunk this one.
(Said in jest, hope I'm never arrogant enough to think I know more than LC designers or LC mudders)

View attachment 4020246

my car is clunking like hell when i put it into drive. and when i go from coasting to on the gas on the highway. Is there any downside to just leaving the clunk?
It sucks. I would tell you to start with this bushing. Simple visual inspection will tell you what you need. I would tell you replacing the bushing is very short term. Once you replace it will just wear out faster. Buy the entire diff cover with a new bushing. I got mine from partsorq for about $220 shipped.
 
I would tell you replacing the bushing is very short term. Once you replace it will just wear out faster.
Maybe not if you fill with gasket material.

IMG_2839.webp
 
It sucks. I would tell you to start with this bushing. Simple visual inspection will tell you what you need. I would tell you replacing the bushing is very short term. Once you replace it will just wear out faster. Buy the entire diff cover with a new bushing. I got mine from partsorq for about $220 shipped.
This doesn't make any sense - replacing the bushing (assuming you're using quality OEM & aligning it correctly) has the same effect as swapping the entire front cover. It also probably shouldn't be done just by itself - you should probably swap the other two bushing at the same time.
 
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