Front Differential Bushing Replacement - the Easy way! (2 Viewers)

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Will heat help at all?

Unlikely. Threads on the bolts are probably rusted/corroded to some degree, basically causing a corrosion weld.

'Break Away' torque can be hundreds of ft. lbs to get the bolts moving/broken away. You'll literally hear a cracking sound when they break loose.

3/4" breaker bar won't flex on you like a 1/2" one will and also won't break possibly causing you injury. But that doesn't mean you might not still need a cheater pipe (at first). Finding a good place to put your feet against the frame/tire/whatever is key to getting enough pressure on the bar as you have already discovered.

Best of luck and let us know if you prevail. 👍
 
Are these all the part numbers required?
What do you plan to achieve? to eliminate the clunk as much as possible? if "yes" then yes!
 
Are these all the part numbers required?
I'll risk taking the heat and say if you're trying to save some $ and step through more methodically, I would suggest starting with the cushion (#2 on your list). From all the research I did many people thought that was the main culprit. When I did mine I replaced the stoppers just because you have them out anyway, but my original ones were still in good shape. I've seen others note the same experience. The cushion (that's the main lower one you have to hammer out of the front support) definitely was spent, and that one carries a lot of force when shifting. I did not replace the housing support. My experience is not totally scientific because I also replaced the front spline hubs at the same time, but between that and the front bushing it 100% eliminated my clunk. Mileage may vary of course and there are probably many others who did the same and will tell you it wasn't enough. If you're made of money replace all of the parts :hillbilly:
 

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