Front diff bushing replacement? (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Hub flange "Snap ring gap" post # 215.
You may like to start reading on post #187 "frt. diff. bushings. Post # 194 for "frt driveshaft" install.

Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Grease is for things that need to move... Bolts need to move...LOL The grease you see me using today is Red-N-Tacky. I use marine grease (MG) also, but the MG stuff I've been getting lately has been to thin. This Red is designed to hold in place without breaking down, doesn't wash out and has...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Pucker5]

Old thread bump!

I was under my 100 last night doing a little freshening up and found this bushing was completely blown out. I am assuming this is where my drive line vibration is coming from. Can anybody give me some input on whether this is the issue?

Sorry to bring this old thread up but I’m going to buy this whole arm and bushing assembly. Can I just unbolt this and replace it or is there anything i I will need to do as far as removal, disengaging, jacks, etc

 

[l3n0x]

Is there a point on only replacing the flange (and not the axles as well) to win a little time (and money) - if the CV's have quite some play on the wheel side? And also some up/down play on the diff side? Or will it just chew up the new flange in a matter of miles?

 

[Greenbean]

I too would like to hear something about this, how hard are each metal parts?
If I had to guess the axles would be the "hardest" between the two but it makes for a great question.

I mean how much could it hurt to purchase some flanges, gaskets, 12 new cone washers, and a set of the snap rings in the different thicknesses. I am pretty sure you would tell a difference if it helped or not and possibly could buy some time until you could replace the axles and the flanges.

 

[2001LC]

First, in the video showing a supposed bad "bushing" arm, using a crow bar on the diff DS side tube bushing arm. That bushing looks and sound good to me. Where I once thought that a sign of worn out bushing, I now know they are designed to move like that.

~ 50% of the bushing connects inner to outer area. ~50% is void. In this one the rubber is starting to crack, but really not to bad. New is stiffer, but not that much improvement will be gain by replace this ~$100 bushing.
At 200K miles and 13 years not too bad.

I'm really getting a little off topic of "Front diff bushing".

Yes, both diff bushing and Wheel hub & axle will produce a clunk. But we'll chases the clunk forever, if hub flange and axle not addressed first. For my money, I go after hub and axle first.

I replace a lot of Hub Flanges & Cone Washers, if they look worn at all. It does help reduce the D-N-R clunk. It also helps extend life of axle, IMHO. By this I mean, if splines/teeth of hub flange are worn down. They will add to play on axle, and wear down axle teeth faster due to movement/play. But if axle teeth are visibly worn, it's a band-aid. The axle will chew on the hub flange.

My absolute favorite is swapping out FDS (AKA CV"s), Hub Flange and Cone washers all at the same time. I don't put in new FDS without new Hub flange.

New Hub Flange

Worn

Damage face where snap ring rides.

 

[2001LC]

If wheel bearings loose and snap ring (reused) and gap to wide, axle and hub flange will fail. Properly serviced wheel bearings protect the very costly FDS (Front Drive Shafts). No reason for axle and hub flange to ever fail.
Here's a bad axle of FDS. See how worn the splines/teeth are:

Good axle

The most expensive result of not properly service wheel bearing is FDS.
Preliminary inspection of health of hub flange and axle.
Worn axle and hub flange yield D-N-R clunk.


New

 

[Greenbean]

Absolutely FANTASTIC videos brother!!!

That details a lot, thank you, thank you, thank you!

I’m about to dive in and do both front axles with new flanges, cone washers and related seals and gaskets. Just compiling my parts list now to make the purchase.

 

[2001LC]

Absolutely FANTASTIC videos brother!!!

That details a lot, thank you, thank you, thank you!

I’m about to dive in and do both front axles with new flanges, cone washers and related seals and gaskets. Just compiling my parts list now to make the purchase.

You're welcome!

You may like to review the wheel bearing links within first link of signature line. Look in index, under Wheel bearings & Knuckle of OP.

 

[l3n0x]

Fantastic! So if my FDS & Flanges are worn I should also replace the bearings?

 

[2001LC]

No.

Bearings need servicing properly ever 30K miles. Tight bearings, meaning pre-load properly set, along with tight snap ring with gap of lees than 0.20 mm will help keep drive shaft axle splines/teeth in great shape. The wheel bearings & races are incredibly tough and rarely need replacing.

Here is examples of a bearing, claw washer, snap ring and cone washers that would need replacing.

This bearing did have 570K Kilometers on them, but were not properly serviced. Had they been, they'd likely still be good and not looking like this.

Here the first axle needle bearing and brass bushing I've replace. They still had factory grease at 570K KM. The inner cage was black from excessive heat as was race of wheel bearing above. Had they been grease every 30K miles they likely be fine.

Here's a scored claw washer. Which scoring is from loose wheel bearings chatter on it. Once they start scoring, bearing loosen faster and chatter get worst. It's a vicious cycle.

Trashed snap ring which are not reusable, and score cone washer that needs replacing.

If wheel bearings properly service, those parts would look like new and be reusable time and time again. I'll bet 1 millions miles or forever. I've found wheel bearing actually get better with use, if properly services,

 

[l3n0x]

Awesome and thank you very much! The only issue is that I don't know what their condition is, how well were they've been maintained, as I've just bought the car. But the CV's have a huge amount of play, and there is a humming sound comming from the front right. So I have to replace the axle and flange for sure, and was considering doing the bearings and seals and what not if already in there, as I assume they're probably in bad condition (and not just loose). The tricky part is that I have to order parts in advance as they take a good 2 weeks to deliver.

 

[2001LC]

You could do a more thorough inspection. Even pull off the caliper and hang to the side. Then pull grease cap, snap ring and hub flange and take a peak at bearings, hub flange and axle. Then place your order.

This was the most difficult hub flange I ever pulled off. Turns out they used FPIG (seen a few times now) on hub flange gasket (wrong) and the FIPG got in cone washers. Usually not so tough.

 

[l3n0x]

You could do a more thorough inspection. Even pull off the caliper and hang to the side. Then pull grease cap, snap ring and hub flange and take a peak at bearings, hub flange and axle. Then place your order.

This was the most difficult hub flange I ever pulled off. Turns out they used FPIG (seen a few times now) on hub flange gasket (wrong) and the FIPG got in cone washers. Usually not so tough.

I can’t thank you enough!

 

[SierraWheeler]

Had the R-N-D clunk on mine, 2001 with 126k miles. Observed that it was coming from the forward front diff bushing like most others here. I ordered up replacements for the top and bottom cushion and prepared to get in there with the hammer and chisel like everyone else.

When I got the new bushings and started comparing them to the old bushings, I found that the bottom bushing was actually in great shape and the same thickness as the new one. However, the top bushing had been flattened by several millimeters and allowed just enough slop to cause the clunk. Thank my lucky stars I was able to leave the bottom bushing alone and just pop in a new top bushing.

Easy 10 minute job and my clunk is gone! Thanks for the tips!

 

[brownfox]

You're welcome!

You may like to review the wheel bearing links within first link of signature line. Look in index, under Wheel bearings & Knuckle of OP.

I just browsed the FAQ and your FDS to hub flange explanation isn’t in there. I think you’ve posted it a few times. You need your own section in the FAQ so you can just paste links in these threads. Well, maybe you’re already just pasting, but still.

 

[2001LC]

Look in first link of my signture: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.
Not well organized (work in progress).

 

[Greenbean]

Had the R-N-D clunk on mine, 2001 with 126k miles. Observed that it was coming from the forward front diff bushing like most others here. I ordered up replacements for the top and bottom cushion and prepared to get in there with the hammer and chisel like everyone else.

When I got the new bushings and started comparing them to the old bushings, I found that the bottom bushing was actually in great shape and the same thickness as the new one. However, the top bushing had been flattened by several millimeters and allowed just enough slop to cause the clunk. Thank my lucky stars I was able to leave the bottom bushing alone and just pop in a new top bushing.

Easy 10 minute job and my clunk is gone! Thanks for the tips!

Mind sharing the part number for that upper bushing piece,

Sounds like you really did a great job!

 

[SierraWheeler]

Mind sharing the part number for that upper bushing piece,

Sounds like you really did a great job!

Honestly, I may just have gotten lucky.

Picked all the part #'s thanks to @Ayune. The forward upper bushing is part # 41653-60020 - that tightened it up and fixed my clunk. I had ordered the forward lower bushing (part # 41651-60010) at the same time and will be returning it.

P/N	Toyota Description	Notes
52380-60040	SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL	Rear DS arm & bushing
52380-60030	SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL	Rear PS arm & bushing
41651-60010	CUSHION, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, NO.1	Front lower bushing, removed & pressed into diff cover
41653-60010	STOPPER, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER	Flat bushing that goes above 52380-60030
41653-60020	STOPPER, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPER	Flat bushing that goes above 41651-60010

 

[2001LC]

Not just lucky. Those bushing (front and rear pucks) do wear (or flatten) more than others.

 

[l3n0x]

Just wanted to say a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have contributed to this thread, inculding the guy who snapped his mount accidentally and preventing me from possibly doing the same thing! My horrible P-R-N-D and off/on throttle clunk is completely gone after replacing all the front diff bushings, even though my CV's have quite some play at the flange. It was not an easy task to do (at least for me) I've got to admit, but the result is worth the time & effort