Front diff bushing replacement? (3 Viewers)

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Correction: Took it for a larger spin, and the clunk is still 70% there:( Well. Not the best investment ($600) :D
 
So, hub flanges next, then?

I already have them on the shelf, but not sure if it's worth to replace them without swapping out the CV's as well.. But those cost crazy money, so I'm kinda trying to postpone it...
 
I don't blame you. How are your CVs as of now?

I'm thinking I'll be doing an entire front end refresh by the Spring. It'll include CVs, hub flanges, all the LCA bushings/BJ, and steering rack/TREs.

Needless to say, I'll be stocking up on parts a little at a time.
 
I already have them on the shelf, but not sure if it's worth to replace them without swapping out the CV's as well.. But those cost crazy money, so I'm kinda trying to postpone it...

You can inspect the CV/hub flange play with the vehicle on the ground. Set a camera on the ground under the vehicle, pointing up at the inside of the hub flange. Start the car, hold the foot brake firm, shift from D to R to D. Watch the footage. If you have play, you'll see the CV rotate while the wheel stays still. If the CV doesn't move, but you still hear the clunk, don't bother with the hub or CV. The clunk is coming from somewhere else.

@2001LC has some awesome video examples of this that he's posted all over (probably in this thread already).
 
You can inspect the CV/hub flange play with the vehicle on the ground. Set a camera on the ground under the vehicle, pointing up at the inside of the hub flange. Start the car, hold the foot brake firm, shift from D to R to D. Watch the footage. If you have play, you'll see the CV rotate while the wheel stays still. If the CV doesn't move, but you still hear the clunk, don't bother with the hub or CV. The clunk is coming from somewhere else.

@2001LC has some awesome video examples of this that he's posted all over (probably in this thread already).

I can rotate the CV with my hands and feel and ser the huge amount of play in the flange, it’s that bad:D It’s just that i’d be surprised if the splines on the CV’s are fine and only the flange splines were worn
 
I can rotate the CV with my hands and feel and ser the huge amount of play in the flange, it’s that bad:D It’s just that i’d be surprised if the splines on the CV’s are fine and only the flange splines were worn

Oh, haha. Well at least you know what you need! My advice is to not replace just the hubs. If you have that much play, the CV splines are probably worn and replacing only the hubs won't fix the problem and you'll start wearing down the brand new flanges.

Time to start saving for CVs!
 
Guys, I have a strange thing going on. Ever since doing the bushing replacement, the diff is leaning to the drivers side. I don’t understand how this is possible?
 
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Guys, I have a strange thing going on. Ever since doing the bushing replacement, the diff is leaning to the drivers side. I don’t understand how this is possible?
Do you have a diff drop?
 
I replaced all front diff bushings last week. I bought all OEM parts including the arms:
P/NToyota DescriptionNotes
52380-60040 SUPPORT ASSY, DIFFERENTIALRear DS arm & bushing
52380-60030 SUPPORT ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIALRear PS arm & bushing
41651-60010 CUSHION, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, NO.1Front lower bushing, removed & pressed into diff cover
41653-60010 STOPPER, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPERFlat bushing that goes above 52380-60030
41653-60020 STOPPER, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT, UPPERFlat bushing that goes above 41651-60010
To remove the front bushing, begin with a small hand chisel to just get the bushing flange bent downward enough to allow a larger air chisel. Then work around and it'll drop out soon enough.

View attachment 1993552

Old bushings & arms:
View attachment 1993553

I used a Harbor Freight ball joint tool to install the new front bushing. TIP: The bushing WILL get misaligned when you begin pressing but you DON'T need to loosen the tool and start again - simply grab the threaded rod and yank the tool/bushing into alignment, then turn the rod until it begins to go crooked again. Then grab the threaded rod and yank it again into position. Repeat the crank-yank-crank-yank until the bushing can guide itself straight in.
View attachment 1993554

Here's a fast-motion video showing the D-N-R movement of the new front bushing. No more banging into the diff cover (see post above)!



Do these come in a "kit" from any of the Site partners?
 
In an '06 with ~65k mi and a Trail Tailor Tough Dog 2.5" lift, diff drop, etc, should we expect that the front differential bushing that is "falling off" is just worn out because of the age of the vehicle, or is there possibly some suspension-related issue that is causing the problem? I'm hoping to get some pics soon. Thanks, guys!
 
I got a pic, it was taken from passenger side of the diff from the back of the vehicle
thumbnail.jpg
 
Interesting installation, should look like this:

edit: or is that with the bolt & bottom washer & top washer (or whatever it's called) removed already for the picture (but then why is the skidplate still on)?

1575060758274.png
 
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Interesting installation, should look like this:

edit: or is that with the bolt & bottom washer & top washer (or whatever it's called) removed already for the picture (but then why is the skidplate still on)?

View attachment 2145279

Thanks for the pic, do you have a lift (2.5?) and diff drop?

They haven't touched it yet AFAIK.

It seems like I need a spacer because of the lift, but I was wondering if anyone else had come across this.
 
Thanks for the pic, do you have a lift (2.5?) and diff drop?

They haven't touched it yet AFAIK.

It seems like I need a spacer because of the lift, but I was wondering if anyone else had come across this.
If that hasn’t been touched yet, then I’m afraid the bolt that holds the assy fell out. (And a couple other parts as well)
The picture is from the slee diff drop installation manual
 
I'm pretty sure the bolt is there, it's just coated black so it is hard to see. I'm not sure why it's head is recessed unlike the Slee pic.
 

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