Correction: Took it for a larger spin, and the clunk is still 70% there
Well. Not the best investment ($600) 
Well. Not the best investment ($600) 
Front diff bushing replacement?
- Thread starter Utahfj62
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Have you done the rear diff support and the driver diff tube support?
Yes, did them
So, hub flanges next, then?
I already have them on the shelf, but not sure if it's worth to replace them without swapping out the CV's as well.. But those cost crazy money, so I'm kinda trying to postpone it...
I don't blame you. How are your CVs as of now?
I'm thinking I'll be doing an entire front end refresh by the Spring. It'll include CVs, hub flanges, all the LCA bushings/BJ, and steering rack/TREs.
Needless to say, I'll be stocking up on parts a little at a time.
I'm thinking I'll be doing an entire front end refresh by the Spring. It'll include CVs, hub flanges, all the LCA bushings/BJ, and steering rack/TREs.
Needless to say, I'll be stocking up on parts a little at a time.
You can inspect the CV/hub flange play with the vehicle on the ground. Set a camera on the ground under the vehicle, pointing up at the inside of the hub flange. Start the car, hold the foot brake firm, shift from D to R to D. Watch the footage. If you have play, you'll see the CV rotate while the wheel stays still. If the CV doesn't move, but you still hear the clunk, don't bother with the hub or CV. The clunk is coming from somewhere else.
@2001LC has some awesome video examples of this that he's posted all over (probably in this thread already).
I can rotate the CV with my hands and feel and ser the huge amount of play in the flange, it’s that bad
It’s just that i’d be surprised if the splines on the CV’s are fine and only the flange splines were worn
I can rotate the CV with my hands and feel and ser the huge amount of play in the flange, it’s that bad
Oh, haha. Well at least you know what you need! My advice is to not replace just the hubs. If you have that much play, the CV splines are probably worn and replacing only the hubs won't fix the problem and you'll start wearing down the brand new flanges.
Time to start saving for CVs!
Guys, I have a strange thing going on. Ever since doing the bushing replacement, the diff is leaning to the drivers side. I don’t understand how this is possible?
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Do you have a diff drop?
No, but I did remove the diff supporting cross-member during the bushing replacement.
Asked because maybe the spacers were left out.
Ensure that all the rubber spacers were installed on top of the two passenger supports?
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
In an '06 with ~65k mi and a Trail Tailor Tough Dog 2.5" lift, diff drop, etc, should we expect that the front differential bushing that is "falling off" is just worn out because of the age of the vehicle, or is there possibly some suspension-related issue that is causing the problem? I'm hoping to get some pics soon. Thanks, guys!
I got a pic, it was taken from passenger side of the diff from the back of the vehicle
Interesting installation, should look like this:
edit: or is that with the bolt & bottom washer & top washer (or whatever it's called) removed already for the picture (but then why is the skidplate still on)?
edit: or is that with the bolt & bottom washer & top washer (or whatever it's called) removed already for the picture (but then why is the skidplate still on)?
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Thanks for the pic, do you have a lift (2.5?) and diff drop?
They haven't touched it yet AFAIK.
It seems like I need a spacer because of the lift, but I was wondering if anyone else had come across this.
If that hasn’t been touched yet, then I’m afraid the bolt that holds the assy fell out. (And a couple other parts as well)
The picture is from the slee diff drop installation manual
I'm pretty sure the bolt is there, it's just coated black so it is hard to see. I'm not sure why it's head is recessed unlike the Slee pic.
