Front DC drive shaft vibration:

[ShottsUZJ100]

And then let me know what your caster is at. Pretty sure it is going to be close to 0 or negative. I can not believe it handles ok with that setup.

The 10-minute freeway and street ride seemed OK. It'll take more seat time. A tweaked ride would be the only other reason I'd remove those spacers.

In any event, it is my dedicated trail rig. I rarely make it out of Arizona and when I do hit Moab I'm sure the ride will be "acceptable".

I do want to thank YOU for ALL of your patience through this multi-month learning project. Your cooperation on phone calls, parts and returns is greatly appreciated and is a factor on why I keep coming back. THANKS!

When I get my 2nd 100, LOOK OUT!

 

[sleeoffroad]

The only problem with bad caster is when you need to make an emergency move. Go on the highway and try some fast lane changes and see if you like it.

A dedicated trail rig is normally trailered to the trail head, so then it might be ok.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

A dedicated trail rig is normally trailered to the trail head, so then it might be ok.

Loan me your diesel.

 

[landtank]

I do want to thank YOU for ALL of your patience through this multi-month learning project.

It's been pointed out numerous times that a lifted truck with NO caster correction and the stock shaft will be Vib free.

I don't see where you learned anything, this is not a solution to your vib problem, you just gave up.

Just be careful driving that thing with gusty crosswinds.

 

[Tools R Us]

And then let me know what your caster is at. Pretty sure it is going to be close to 0 or negative. I can not believe it handles ok with that setup.

This thread isn't long enough, so I think we should have a pool! I'm in at -2.2!

Good to hear it's working for you John.

 

[landtank]

This thread isn't long enough, so I think we should have a pool! I'm in at -2.2!

Good to hear it's working for you John.

I'm in on the pool but with his constant fingering of his setup I want to know the final abortion that's going up on the machine.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

It's been pointed out numerous times that a lifted truck with NO caster correction and the stock shaft will be Vib free.

I don't see where you learned anything, this is not a solution to your vib problem, you just gave up.

Just be careful driving that thing with gusty crosswinds.

I've got OME CC.

If it drive horrible then I'll re-think. It seemed OK on my 10-minute ride. Obviously these things do differ some. My buddy with J's and plates worked fine. Mine did not. Too much correction. With OME CC's I might be close. ??

 

[landtank]

Good to hear you have something in there, I must have missed that part. You'll probably be close to zero then, not the worst case scenario I'm sure.

 

[FJBen]

I've got OME CC.

If it drive horrible then I'll re-think. It seemed OK on my 10-minute ride. Obviously these things do differ some. My buddy with J's and plates worked fine. Mine did not. Too much correction. With OME CC's I might be close. ??

Did you get that measured to show that it was too much correction??? At 5" of lift you should have "real world" losses of 5 degree's. Figure your rig is on the decent side of caster, you are at -2....like me.

The Caster plates correct less than the arms, and with the arms I'm at 4.4. It will be interesting to see.

My pool vote...

0 and -5

 

[landtank]

FJBen your truck is an anomoly I think.

The trig equation for calculating caster need by lift in inches shows 1.75*/in

Christo drew the thing out in autocad and came to the same solution

My truck before, during and after my lift also followed the 1.75*/in

I have no idea why your mesurements didn't follow as well.

 

[FJBen]

FJBen your truck is an anomoly I think.

The trig equation for calculating caster need by lift in inches shows 1.75*/in

Christo drew the thing out in autocad and came to the same solution

My truck before, during and after my lift also followed the 1.75*/in

I have no idea why your mesurements didn't follow as well.

Thats what I thought, and thats what I got in Cad when we did the exact same thing here at work. On Slee's site and talking with him, they get the same results rought 1" of lift = 1 degree of caster change.

My thoughts are (head hurting after messing with the numbers all day) is that the difference is in the way it is actually measured. On paper it's linear....makes sense...BUT...when they measure it, they aren't using those three attaching points to measure from because they can't...they measure/calculate using camber/toe measurents and equations...

Did you get your's alligned at a shop Rick?? just wondering if that's how your got you numbers.

 

[clarkrw3]

Man i have slee control arms and I am at 1.6 and 2.1 caster....I can't so I would say unless you were VERY luck with stock caster you are at 0 to negative. But if you are happy that is all that counts!!!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

But if you are happy that is all that counts!!!

THANKS....and that's true....BUT...I'll want to be safe. I'll be driving it all over tonight after he finishes TANKS seat move-back mod. Wow....a double whammy today. Smooth LX and a combfy seat. I might prefer this to my 100. NOT!

 

[FJBen]

Man i have slee control arms and I am at 1.6 and 2.1 caster....I can't so I would say unless you were VERY luck with stock caster you are at 0 to negative. But if you are happy that is all that counts!!!

interesting again...do you know how much actual lift you got??? I got around 5 1/4" of lift from the 4" springs. Would be interesting to see what yours really turned out to be.

My stock caster was 3.0

 

[landtank]

Did you get your's alligned at a shop Rick??

Yes, it was the same dealership in the town next door. I didn't get before lift measurements, I should have said before correction measurements. With Slee's original 4" springs and all my weight I got about 3" in the front and I was 5* (it calculates to 5.25*) short of ideal caster. I then added a 1" spacer (later his revised springs) and adjusted my caster another 2*.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Well, Landtank's seat mod works great. He knows his trucks. (Well, now he needs a 100 )

More driving done.

On highway....feels about the same. Seriously. It leans a tad from those J's, but in quick steering manuevers it seems to track just fine.

I only get the grr off the gas and it sounds like it's from the T-case back.

The '93's front shaft has 175K on it. I'll order and slap the new shaft on the LX and give the old one back to my son's '93.

The rear flanges look fair centered (parallel). Any idea which way the rear pumpkin should get adjusted? Angled upward or downward? (Grrr sound on coast only)

 

[Tools R Us]

The rear flanges look fair centered (parallel). Any idea which way the rear pumpkin should get adjusted? Angled upward or downward? (Grrr sound on coast only)

Try moving the pinion up slightly. Is it worse at full engine braking or at true coast?

 

[clarkrw3]

interesting again...do you know how much actual lift you got??? I got around 5 1/4" of lift from the 4" springs. Would be interesting to see what yours really turned out to be.

My stock caster was 3.0

Not sure exactly, but it seemed I was about an inch to 1 1/2 inches higher center to fender flare than what people have posted for the 4".

 

[landtank]

we really should move our measuring from the "hub center to flare" to something more reliable like the "spring perch to bumpstop" or something similar that can yield better results. Measuring to the flare can have some error if you measure around the tire and not horizontal to the hub.

 

[T Y L E R]

Wrong poll ..

I'd start a poll on the length of the test drive.


I'm in at 1.7 minutes .. ;p



TY