Man, just take the whole truck by your local drive line shop and let them make you a shaft with the proper mating flanges..... but they are gonna get rid of one of those cardan joints for sure.... then you can deal with the pinion angle.....::
front axle rebuild went wrong!
- Thread starter badass
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Grant is right as well as the others who posted it up.
Fix your front drive shaft and get rid of the DC at the pinion.
Fix your front drive shaft and get rid of the DC at the pinion.
You can use the old shaft with one cardan and get a stock flange. But if you can find a older fj60 shaft with a cardan it should bolt up with no fab work. If you give me the length from flange to flange I can find out if a 60 drive shaft will work.
and a 2.5" shackle nets 1.25" of lift. So you are running 5.25" of lift. You can put a 7 degree shim in and get that angle close enough for now. Post a pic of the shim at the bottom of the spring pack. I am wondering if the previous owner of the truck put it in backwards.. If it is backwards, it will be REALLY sending your angle in the wrong direction.
For $20 I would be finding an fj60 shaft from a boneyard to try first. You could always sell it here if it does not work.
For $20 I would be finding an fj60 shaft from a boneyard to try first. You could always sell it here if it does not work.
Hahahaheeehooahaa - awe fawke - what a cluster fawke this thread is! No matter what you need to just plain fix the drive shaft. As to shims, if you do go that route I'd suggest doing a search for "steel shims" and having a set custom made by that guy to the degree you spec - aluminum ones can crush over time. You're going to need to spend a little money at this point - no sense fragging it more than it already is...
Just like a previous poster stated - a dog chasing it's tail
.
Just like a previous poster stated - a dog chasing it's tail
.
Hahahaheeehooahaa - awe fawke - what a cluster fawke this thread is! No matter what you need to just plain fix the drive shaft. As to shims, if you do go that route I'd suggest doing a search for "steel shims" and having a set custom made by that guy to the degree you spec - aluminum ones can crush over time. You're going to need to spend a little money at this point - no sense fragging it more than it already is...
Just like a previous poster stated - a dog chasing it's tail
Back Off, Dip Stick,
I like reading the trials and trivia of badass
Back Off, Dip Stick,
Ha! Fair enough - I kinda agree hence I wouldn't have checked this thread 3 times waiting to see if he posts a pic of the double double carden shaft
Back to your regularly scheduled entertainment...
dgangle
total rice
I have seen this truck. I do not recall specifically what, if any degree shims he has or if he has them what position they are in. Judging by the pinion angle, i would guestimate 4 degrees put in with the thick part to the front (as to increase caster but negatively affect the pinion angle). I will have to see it up close to be certain. He has about 6" of SUA lift total: 4" springs, longer shackels and a spring reversal kit.
To correclty fix this truck he needs a cut and turn with an early FJ60 front driveshaft (double cardan on one end and and a standard U-joint on the other). The DC needs to be at the TC and the pinion must be pointed up. The likelyhood of a standard-length driveshaft just bolting up, while possible, is not probable. I'll bet a 6-pack it's lentgh is going to need altered. And WTF can you find a 60's DC shaft for $20? Maybe I've been getting hosed but the going rate here on MUD is $75-100. I know because I have bought 4 of them in the last couple years. I'll take every $20 one you got. An FJ60" DC shaft is NOT going to work with the pinion angle he presently has, period. There is a reason the PO put that double double cardan shaft on. It had to be to avoid a C&T.
In Sean's defense, he is a college kid working a crappy job after school and on the weekends. This is his daily driver. That means whatever he takes apart must be back together by bedtime so he can get to school in the morning. I've been there. His excitement of all things mechanical is intoxicating and he isn't afraid to jump in on anything. Yes, his threads go all over the place and back but cut him some slack. We can all spend his money for him...I'd suggest buying a Civic as a daily driver and wrench on the LC for fun but that may not be an option.
Sean, call me, come over or tell when when to meet you at work. I will look at what you got very closely, measure your caster and tell you what your options are. You decide what to do if anything. You are welcome to come over to my house again and crawl under mine. I have been in the same situation and have sucessfully resolved all of the issues you have (suspension, not carb!!).
To correclty fix this truck he needs a cut and turn with an early FJ60 front driveshaft (double cardan on one end and and a standard U-joint on the other). The DC needs to be at the TC and the pinion must be pointed up. The likelyhood of a standard-length driveshaft just bolting up, while possible, is not probable. I'll bet a 6-pack it's lentgh is going to need altered. And WTF can you find a 60's DC shaft for $20? Maybe I've been getting hosed but the going rate here on MUD is $75-100. I know because I have bought 4 of them in the last couple years. I'll take every $20 one you got. An FJ60" DC shaft is NOT going to work with the pinion angle he presently has, period. There is a reason the PO put that double double cardan shaft on. It had to be to avoid a C&T.
In Sean's defense, he is a college kid working a crappy job after school and on the weekends. This is his daily driver. That means whatever he takes apart must be back together by bedtime so he can get to school in the morning. I've been there. His excitement of all things mechanical is intoxicating and he isn't afraid to jump in on anything. Yes, his threads go all over the place and back but cut him some slack. We can all spend his money for him...I'd suggest buying a Civic as a daily driver and wrench on the LC for fun but that may not be an option.
Sean, call me, come over or tell when when to meet you at work. I will look at what you got very closely, measure your caster and tell you what your options are. You decide what to do if anything. You are welcome to come over to my house again and crawl under mine. I have been in the same situation and have sucessfully resolved all of the issues you have (suspension, not carb!!).
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You need to live in an area where salt is a killer. Whole fj60's at boneyards are $250, at least the last one offered to me by the local yard was. Power steering setups, complete are $100. Driveshafts are usually $20-30 a piece. The last one I helped scrap I do not even think we took it out.
I should go snag the one at the boneyard we just took the power steering, 4 chrome stock wheels, and a bunch of other goodies off of for $125.
Hey Badass,
You said it only makes the noise in 4WD. I looked at the video and heard the noise. I had the exact same sound. I'll bet the driveshaft is touching the skid pan. Lift kits will cause that. Get under there and see how much space there is between the drive shaft and skid pan. I used a crowbar to pull the pan down about 1/4 inch and the banging went away. Good Luck.
You said it only makes the noise in 4WD. I looked at the video and heard the noise. I had the exact same sound. I'll bet the driveshaft is touching the skid pan. Lift kits will cause that. Get under there and see how much space there is between the drive shaft and skid pan. I used a crowbar to pull the pan down about 1/4 inch and the banging went away. Good Luck.
dgangle
total rice
I guess one man's junk is another man's treasure. The one's I have purchased from fellow Mud members have come from NH, PA, WI & OH. Let's make some money. I'll take every single early FJ60 DS with DC for $40/each you can find, even if they need rebuilt. You'll make $20/each from me. Let me know where to mail a check/paypal and when I can expect my first dozen.
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I wish I could get a dozen, I would. They had three (2 60s and a 62) at the local yard, we pulled the hubs and steering, they crushed two, one left. I may go down next week to pull the shaft, but I think I will keep it. Apparently they are getting expensive!
I don't think anyone was seriously giving him a hard time - just a little friendly ribbing.
From what you just described - the interim solution may be to just test and see how bad (read safely) the vehicle drives without the needed caster adjustment - but really don't see that working either.
I've got a front SUA housing if you want it as a spare to do a cut and turn so it's ready for a one day swap out - that's the best way to go and not an overly complicated project - 4 hours or so. Shipping usually kills that though...
From what you just described - the interim solution may be to just test and see how bad (read safely) the vehicle drives without the needed caster adjustment - but really don't see that working either.
I've got a front SUA housing if you want it as a spare to do a cut and turn so it's ready for a one day swap out - that's the best way to go and not an overly complicated project - 4 hours or so. Shipping usually kills that though...
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks David, i've been lucky lately with hitching rides with friends and all, but i'm trying fix all the major problems to a point where it will just be regular maintanance.(like that's gonna happen
) Anyway, i want to come down to your house soon but that's kinda hard to do currently cause even though i finally got the carb fixed, i'm now focusing on the overheating problem which has been going on since the last 2 months, turns out bad thermostat, so this afternoon i will be pickin up a new one from advance. I will give you a call if i can come by this weekend, MAYBE tomorrow. I've been getting home after dark lately so taking pics of stuff really hasn't been an option. Thanks, later, Sean.- Thread starter
- #78
I don't think anyone was seriously giving him a hard time - just a little friendly ribbing.
From what you just described - the interim solution may be to just test and see how bad (read safely) the vehicle drives without the needed caster adjustment - but really don't see that working either.
I've got a front SUA housing if you want it as a spare to do a cut and turn so it's ready for a one day swap out - that's the best way to go and not an overly complicated project - 4 hours or so. Shipping usually kills that though...
Thanks for the offer bro, but i just got done rebuilding the knuckles and really want to try and get by without the cut'n'turn if i can. Appreciate it though.
cv joints dont have the angle that regular joints do maybey the joints are maxed out and under stress and are rubbing .unless its a winter ride i dont know why cv joints are needed in the front .i have an soa with spring reversal no c and t and a stock d shaft and its been that way for 34 years plus its a winter ride .hopefully its simple and an easy fix good luck
Sean funny this is I have been in your shoes. I bought my first cruiser while in college. Traded in a good reliable vehicle for a vehicle that broke down on me twice just getting it the two miles back to the house. A lot of people come here and see your threads and just say here we go again. Heck I'm one of them. Having a 30 yr old vehicle that has been taken offroad as your only form of transportation is not a wise move. But who said you or I (when I was in college) were wise. I spent lots of weekends fixing that cruiser myself, lots of money from my part time job went into that cruiser.
Cruisers are not cheap to keep going. They need constant maint. And if you take it offroad, a lot more maint. My advice now would be to save your money. Don't wheel it until you can fix it right. It will work just fine in 2wd around town. Maybe save some money and buy another vehicle that will get you from point A to B. If I had given you advice 15 years ago I'd say wheel that bitch till it breaks and do the cheapest thing you can to get it running again. Beer is more important than a running vehicle. It looks cool even when it's not running and you can always hitch a ride or ride you bike.
What ever you do don't do what I did and sell it. You will regret that day for ever.
Cruisers are not cheap to keep going. They need constant maint. And if you take it offroad, a lot more maint. My advice now would be to save your money. Don't wheel it until you can fix it right. It will work just fine in 2wd around town. Maybe save some money and buy another vehicle that will get you from point A to B. If I had given you advice 15 years ago I'd say wheel that bitch till it breaks and do the cheapest thing you can to get it running again. Beer is more important than a running vehicle. It looks cool even when it's not running and you can always hitch a ride or ride you bike.
What ever you do don't do what I did and sell it. You will regret that day for ever.