Front Axle Knuckle Service (1 Viewer)

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Jun 24, 2020
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Aurora Colorado
Hey all, I recently purchased my first land cruiser, -a 95’ FJZ80- and it’s not exactly in tip top shape.
My main concern and first project I plan on working on is the drivers side (and passenger side for that matter) knuckle. I have no experience whatsoever with solid front axles, but from what I know so far, I know I need to replace the inner axle seal. However, while looking at the Slee buyers guide, I noticed they said that if the knuckle is left in bad shape for too long, it may be past service specs.
My main question for you all is how I will be able to know whether my knuckles are past this point, and if they are, what my next step should be.
 
The FMS FSM has inspection details for wear items. If they fail the inspections, you get new parts.
Just went through this with my PS pump and steering gear.
I have a granite plate and all the inspection equipment needed...
 
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The FMS has inspection details for wear items. If they fail the inspections, you get new parts.
Just went through this with my PS pump and steering gear.
I have a granite plate and all the inspection equipment needed...

My 80 has had them leaking for who knows how long (I've only had her for 800mi), I want to have ready a possible replacement if needed. Did you go used or brand new knuckle?
 
The FMS has inspection details for wear items. If they fail the inspections, you get new parts.
Just went through this with my PS pump and steering gear.
I have a granite plate and all the inspection equipment needed...
I feel ignorant asking, but what is the FMS..?
 
I feel ignorant asking, but what is the FMS..?

He meant to say FSM or factory service manual.

I doubt you need to replace your knuckles. We are still servicing knuckles from the 70’s and 80’s without issues.

Just order the rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters, and pick up some new wheel bearings while you’re at it.
 
I feel ignorant asking, but what is the FMS..?

Factory Service Manual. It's the holy Land Cruiser 80 bible. Tells you all the how-to's part # and a bunch more. Just ordered mine from ebay (paperback original copy), around $100.
 
He meant to say FSM or factory service manual.

I doubt you need to replace your knuckles. We are still servicing knuckles from the 70’s and 80’s without issues.

Just order the rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters, and pick up some new wheel bearings while you’re at it.
Is there any chance I could get away with simply replacing the inner seal, or should I just do the whole rebuild while I’m in there?
 
Sorry , Yes FSM, not Foreign Military Sales. Get used to saying something enough and it'll bite you when running in auto pilot.
 
Is there any chance I could get away with simply replacing the inner seal, or should I just do the whole rebuild while I’m in there?
You have to tear it all apart to get to the inner seal. You need to get a rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters, as stated. Whether or not you need bearings is another story.

What is your mechanical skill level?
 
You have to tear it all apart to get to the inner seal. You need to get a rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters, as stated. Whether or not you need bearings is another story.

What is your mechanical skill level?
Significantly above average, and I like to think I’m mechanically inclined, but by no means a pro. From videos I’ve watched though, it seems like a job I can handle. Will check out that rebuild kit.
 
Significantly above average, and I like to think I’m mechanically inclined, but by no means a pro. From videos I’ve watched though, it seems like a job I can handle. Will check out that rebuild kit.
OK Good!

Also check the axle vent on the top left of the axle tube. Remove it, the fitting, and clean it out. Mine had hardened gear oil/grease in it blocking the vent and caused a brand new rebuild to leak when heated up. Then get about 6 ft of 1/4" fuel line and a fuel filter and clamps. Run the hose up and over the brake booster then the filter. This keeps it well above the frame level for water intrusion. Drill out the fitting on the axle tube instead of the tiny orifice that's in it.

Also, when you do your wheel bearings, torque inner to 35 LB-FT, then lock ring, then outer nut to 45 LB-FT. The FSM has an error in it (well documented here) that it's listed in LB-IN.
 
OK Good!

Also check the axle vent on the top left of the axle tube. Remove it, the fitting, and clean it out. Mine had hardened gear oil/grease in it blocking the vent and caused a brand new rebuild to leak when heated up. Then get about 6 ft of 1/4" fuel line and a fuel filter and clamps. Run the hose up and over the brake booster then the filter. This keeps it well above the frame level for water intrusion. Drill out the fitting on the axle tube instead of the tiny orifice that's in it.

Also, when you do your wheel bearings, torque inner to 35 LB-FT, then lock ring, then outer nut to 45 LB-FT. The FSM has an error in it (well documented here) that it's listed in LB-IN.
Thanks a ton man, you’ve just saved me who knows how much headache and research time.
 
Thanks a ton man, you’ve just saved me who knows how much headache and research time.
More:

Birfield grease Valvoline Palladium (4) grease gun tubes total on empty refill, 2 per side.
Wheel bearing grease Lucas Red - N - Tacky 2 (Or your preferred.) (3) tubes total, 1-1/2 per side with packing and filling between bearings.

Don't forget to grease and lube the spindle bushing during reassembly.

The cone washers reassemble DRY.

Check your knuckle studs and look up how to reassemble here with a deadblow hammer.

Invest in a 24 pack of paper towels.
Invest in a case of Brakleen.

Right of passage here.
 
Like everyone said, you don't want to half a$$ this job...whole a$$ it and get the full kit with new wheel bearings. They are not that expensive--$215 with Koyo bearings and $195 with the Timkens. Cruiser Outfitters
 
Birfield grease Valvoline Palladium (4) grease gun tubes total on empty refill, 2 per side.
Wheel bearing grease Lucas Red - N - Tacky 2 (Or your preferred.) (3) tubes total, 1-1/2 per side with packing and filling between bearings.

Don't forget to grease and lube the spindle bushing during reassembly.
The question I'm sure someone going to ask, if you've got the new style spindle bushing/needle bearing, instead of the old style solid brass bushing, which grease is the correct grease to use on those needle bearings. Since your not suposed to use Moly grease on roller bearings. So do you go ahead and lube that needle bearing with Moly grease, or do you lube it with wheel bearing grease?
 
The question I'm sure someone going to ask, if you've got the new style spindle bushing/needle bearing, instead of the old style solid brass bushing, which grease is the correct grease to use on those needle bearings. Since your not suposed to use Moly grease on roller bearings. So do you go ahead and lube that needle bearing with Moly grease, or do you lube it with wheel bearing grease?
I remove the roller bearing and replace it with a bushing.

THEN I use Moly grease....... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
Since your not suposed to use Moly grease on roller bearings. So do you go ahead and lube that needle bearing with Moly grease, or do you lube it with wheel bearing grease?
LOL. This subject comes up every year or so. I use Amsoil moly grease for everything on the vehicle and have been doing so for the last 25 years.
I wouldn't really consider my truck to be class 1 clean room, so the "sliding roller bearings" has never been a concern for me. I get pretty good life out of universals if I mange to keep them off the rocks. My front lasted only 270K miles with regular maintenance, and I get good life out of wheel bearings.
 
Get a seal puller, maybe a seal driver kit, and a tie rod end puller (not a pickle fork) if you don’t already have these items.
 

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