This truck will be awesome with a turbo! Can’t wait to see the finished product.
Fresh Start For A Tired 60 - 1HZ Conversion
- Thread starter The Machinist
- Start date
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nice work @The Machinist , it's pretty cool that these old beasts are virtually boxes of legos 
- Thread starter
- #63
Made up a quick downpipe that dumped straight to the ground so that I could get it on the road and start playing with the turbo. Loved the way it sounded straight out of the downpipe!
Took it for a drive to Boise and up the hill to the local ski resort to see how much of a difference a few pounds of boost would make. (still stock fueling at this point) Unfortunately, it was only making 3lbs consistently with an occasional spike to 5-6 under heavy load and only for a few seconds. I later figured out that the wastegate spring was mislabeled or something and it was opening to its listed pressure WITHOUT a boost reference (basically just backpressure pushing the valve open), so when a pressure reference was connected, it would open at a fraction of the pressure it was supposed to be at. The wastegate actuator is hard to get to, so for now I just added a boost control valve and adjusted it to where I wanted it.
Took it for a drive to Boise and up the hill to the local ski resort to see how much of a difference a few pounds of boost would make. (still stock fueling at this point) Unfortunately, it was only making 3lbs consistently with an occasional spike to 5-6 under heavy load and only for a few seconds. I later figured out that the wastegate spring was mislabeled or something and it was opening to its listed pressure WITHOUT a boost reference (basically just backpressure pushing the valve open), so when a pressure reference was connected, it would open at a fraction of the pressure it was supposed to be at. The wastegate actuator is hard to get to, so for now I just added a boost control valve and adjusted it to where I wanted it.
- Thread starter
- #64
For the gauges, I replaced the factory tachometer with an EGT gauge and added a boost gauge in the left corner of the dash.
Made a simple plate to hold the EGT gauge.
I also repaired a broken bolt hole for the dash panel with some JBweld plastic specific epoxy and a washer. Looks like crap from the backside of the cluster, but works great and isn't noticeable at all when installed.
New gauges are wired to light up when the headlights turn on. Lighting thankfully matched the OEM green nicely.
Also replaced the speedometer cable while I was in there.
Made a simple plate to hold the EGT gauge.
I also repaired a broken bolt hole for the dash panel with some JBweld plastic specific epoxy and a washer. Looks like crap from the backside of the cluster, but works great and isn't noticeable at all when installed.
New gauges are wired to light up when the headlights turn on. Lighting thankfully matched the OEM green nicely.
Also replaced the speedometer cable while I was in there.
- Thread starter
- #65
Made a real downpipe and connected it to the rest of the exhaust. Then re-made the lower portion to work better with the flex pipe Im using for now to get around the frame rail. I definitely found the limits of my ability with a TIG on this project and was wishing I would have just bought a MIG. 
Eventually I'll take it to an exhaust shop and have a good 3" setup made, but this is good enough for now.
Rev. 1:
Rev. 2:
I finished this up a couple of days before a big roadtrip, so to make sure I wasn't going to listen to exhaust leaks for a few thousand miles, I added copious amounts of exhaust sealant.... it worked...
Eventually I'll take it to an exhaust shop and have a good 3" setup made, but this is good enough for now.Rev. 1:
Rev. 2:
I finished this up a couple of days before a big roadtrip, so to make sure I wasn't going to listen to exhaust leaks for a few thousand miles, I added copious amounts of exhaust sealant.... it worked...
- Thread starter
- #66
One of the last tasks before the roadtrip was to replace the rear axle seals, since one of them had been leaking into the brake drum for years. Also replaced the wheel bearings.
@mattressking and I spent a ton of time trying to figure out why we couldn't get the e-brake to adjust properly, eventually we decided that the problem may be caused by the steel cable part being too long. Someday I'll get around to ordering a new brake hardware kit and try to confirm that.
@mattressking and I spent a ton of time trying to figure out why we couldn't get the e-brake to adjust properly, eventually we decided that the problem may be caused by the steel cable part being too long. Someday I'll get around to ordering a new brake hardware kit and try to confirm that.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #67
Wrapped up all that stuff, packed the truck and hit the road to do a lap of Utah and checkout the solar eclipse with some rad people. @Rockymtnreaper @EasternYeti @ryaneddy16
@BHillteq @Knowbuddy
@BHillteq @Knowbuddy
Rockymtnreaper
Colorado.Cruiser
Was an awesome trip rolling with @The Machinist I am looking forward to more trips with this fast tractor! The 1HZ-T cool factor proved itself!
How did the power of the 1HZ compare to the 2f?
- Thread starter
- #71
Similar, but with more low end torque. In stock form it won't feel particularly fast and you are definitely still cruising in the slow lane, but it is lovely offroad. Plus sides of the diesel are the fuel economy (N/A I was getting 17-23mpg) and more consistent fueling (fuel injection vs carbed) so it feels better to drive overall in my opinion.
Power improves significantly with a turbo, but that also adds complexity and potential reliability/tuning issues...
@Rockymtnreaper and I were pretty equally matched on the highway passes two years ago when he had a freshly rebuilt 2F.
It's nice reading and learning more about the 1HZ. When I decided to diesel swap my 60, a 4bt with NV4500 and adapter kit for the 60 transfer case was presented at a great price, so I went with that. It has great power but is super loud and I always wonder if I'd be happier with the 1HZ.
Either way, the diesel fuel economy is fantastic compared to my old 2F.
Either way, the diesel fuel economy is fantastic compared to my old 2F.
@The Machinist
Update? How's the mileage, power, drivability, etc. Has the swap been worth the effort?
Update? How's the mileage, power, drivability, etc. Has the swap been worth the effort?
- Thread starter
- #74
Not a whole lot to update with the 60 since I've been rebuilding an engine for my 1982 pickup and getting it back on the road. Mileage without the turbo was 17-23 highway (measured on the drive from California to Colorado for Solid Axle Summit a few years ago). That dropped slightly with the turbo, but I need to fix a dragging brake issue before I can get an accurate estimate. Just shy of 400 miles to a tank is the ballpark expectation.
I love the 1HZ overall, the swap was absolutely worth the effort. Its hard to beat OEM parts availability, good fuel economy, fuel injection stability offroad (no more carb issues at altitude or steep inclines), and adequate power. It is definitely not as powerful as an LS and cost a bit more to get, but I really prefer the way it drives compared to an LS swapped 60. It still feels like a Land Cruiser.
Thoughts on the turbo... It is absolutely worth it in a heavier truck like a 60, in something like a 40 I think the N/A 1HZ would be fine.
The specific turbo I went with might be a bit too small on the exhaust housing side as heatsoak is a bit of a problem for me, but only when I'm on the interstate at 70-80mph going up a slight grade. EGT's just get too high after a while and start to overwork the cooling system. I'm going to hold off on fully blaming the turbo until I get time to build a 3" exhaust for it though. I'm also planning to do an intercooler later on to help reduce/eliminate this issue. Everywhere other than high speeds on the highway, the turbo performs flawlessly.
This is the turbo I went with. Its very well made and I would not hesitate to buy from them again, but with the 7cm exhaust housing I think it just gets too hot at sustained higher RPM's and load. Stock 1HDT's had an 8cm housing and I think this turbo would be perfect for my use case if it had that larger housing. The wastegate springs were also labeled incorrectly and it seemed like they would open at their labeled pressure WITHOUT a boost reference line going to the actuator. (AKA exhaust backpressure @#10 was opening the gate instead of boost pressure @#10 opening the valve) When I first got it going it would only make a few pounds of boost until I tested the wastegate actuator with compressed air and found this issue.
Kinugawa Turbo Ball Bearing TD05H-16G-7 Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ 80 100
Description Kinugawa STS Advanced Ball Bearing Tech for Toyota 1HZ diesel td05h-16g spec turbocharger with 3" anti-surge cover and 7cm Bolt-on turbine housing provides ultimate spool time than ever. The turbocharger is equipped with CT26 base turbine housing (inlet and outlet type), the same as...
store.kinugawaturbosystems.com
Long story short: An LS swap is cheaper, makes more power and is the best option overall for interstate cruising. A 1HZ swap is 1000% cooler than an LS and is an awesome way to modernize your 60 while maintaining the Toyota tractor feel.
- Thread starter
- #75
Last week I put the truck in a classic 4x4 show put on by the Treasure Valley Vintage Jeep Club. I don't have any pictures of it, but the 60 was all shined up and looking as clean as it has in a few years. The show was great and had a handful of cruisers show up, along with a handful of other neat imported trucks. After the show I went for a cruise up the middle fork of the Boise River and camped for the night.
- Thread starter
- #76
Finally got tired of not being able to drive the 60, so I ordered a few parts and rebuilt the rear brakes. I was having issues with the parking brake adjusters over adjusting and dragging. No mater how many times I adjusted them back they would start to bind again after a few parking brake applications.
Once it was all apart it was pretty clear that the adjusters were the problem. The fork end of the adjuster did not have enough clearance with the shoes and was binding, and the floating barrel was incredibly loose also causing binding.
I put these in probably 10+ years ago when I didn't know any better and just bought the cheapest parts I could get. Don't be like past me, only buy good quality OEM parts.
Adjuster PN's:
4706160011
4706260011
Low quality aftermarket adjuster:
Nice OEM Toyota adjuster:
Once it was all apart it was pretty clear that the adjusters were the problem. The fork end of the adjuster did not have enough clearance with the shoes and was binding, and the floating barrel was incredibly loose also causing binding.
I put these in probably 10+ years ago when I didn't know any better and just bought the cheapest parts I could get. Don't be like past me, only buy good quality OEM parts.
Adjuster PN's:
4706160011
4706260011
Low quality aftermarket adjuster:
Nice OEM Toyota adjuster:
- Thread starter
- #77
Been a while since I've added anything to this thread, but I picked up a set of used 315/75r16's and some nicely powdercoated LX wheels a few weeks ago. I've been putting off replacing my tires and have wanted to get a set of 35's to help with gearing so I jumped on these when they came up. Took it out wheeling last weekend to test them out with with my buddy and the GX he picked up in the fall. He's new to wheeling and I had never been out to this trail so it was a good time.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
D. Your truck is looking great!
- Thread starter
- #79
Thanks John!D. Your truck is looking great!
