- Thread starter
- #21
Looking at putting a new frame in even if it's more expensive so the underneath of the truck will last a long time.
Frame Replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CBeckFJ
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- 100 series frame
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Keep us posted - I'm very curious what they will quote you for a frame replacement. Ted has or had a 100 series with a rotted rear cross member so they may have already done one.
- Thread starter
- #23
It's going to be in a few months, but I'll keep the thread updated
Will you get a quote before then?
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- #25
Probably not. Too much stuff to get done before that.
Getting it repaired is your most cost effective option. Next would be buying a different truck.
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- #29
getting it replaced would probably be around $5k and 32 hours of labor, which is not terrible . Then I have to do brake lines, brakes, and suspension (OME lift) and an ARB bumper.
That's way to much money to sink into that truck. It's not a collectors car, it's not worth rebuilding.
You are better off buying a newer one and driving it. Swapping frames with your current one is lost time and money.
Obviously you can do whatever you want, but I would not do that. Repair it as cheaply as you can so it passes inspection or sell it.
You are better off buying a newer one and driving it. Swapping frames with your current one is lost time and money.
Obviously you can do whatever you want, but I would not do that. Repair it as cheaply as you can so it passes inspection or sell it.
just asking... why do you guys up north even buy a truck there when you can fly to a non rust area and get a rust free one for less money... it has to be cost effective even if trip cost a $1000... do you guys have any idea what it's like to be able to remove any nut or bolt on a truck with ease and be able to reuse the same nut and bolt... everytime... kinda cool to not to have holes in the sheet metal also...
It's mostly a time thing. As we all know, good deals go fast so if you're a long distance buyer you're at a disadvantage to the local guy who can show up, drive it, and offer cash. Been burned too many times to buy based on 4 pics in a CL ad. It's always worse in person. So, that leaves lining up a pre-purchase inspection before buying a plane ticket. If it's a good rig at a good price, the seller has little interest or need to deal with an out of state buyer as it will sell quickly. That leaves rigs that others don't want - either too high mileage or too high price or rebuilt title or something else. So, while it sounds ideal to jump on a plane and buy a rust free cruiser and drive/ship it home, it's often better to be patient and find one locally that was cared for, maintained, garaged, undercarriage sprayed often, etc.
The other issue is even if we get one of these pristine rigs back home and oil the underside like a baby's bottom, bolts will rust anyway with all the road salt they use up here. Having said all that, my brother lives in Knox so he's going to be my lookout for my next rig
From my point of view, 9/10 times (give or take) it just isn't worth it, and isn't as cheap as you think it may be. @RND1 hit the nail on the head, so I'm not going to go on and on here (that, and because there's already dozens of arguments about rust here, and (I mean this in the least malicious way possible) arguing with guys who don't live in the rust belt is just a waste of time for each party.) In theory, finding a non-rusted vehicle elsewhere sounds great. But on paper it's a nightmare. Dealing with sellers, wasting time because it's not as advertised, dealing with out of state titles private party (which in MA can be a real pain in the a**).
I truly just can't be bothered, and I don't have that kind of time to put into it, just so I can save myself a couple hours of not soaking bolts in PB Blaster.
But hey, there's plenty here who will wholeheartedly disagree, shake their head, and call me an idiot. Which I'm totally fine with.
I think LC's are cheaper up north than down south. There isn't as many off roading enthusiasts , nobody even knows what they are up here. There seem to be more listings down south, but when I was looking everything was considerably more expensive.
I guess it's a tolerance thing.. I have purchased so much stuff sight unseen it's a non issue... I have gone to dallas/houston/las vegas with having nothing lined up and always found something and have driven home... here if it has one small rust bubble it's a pass... weird for you guys I know.. my 14yo just purchased a 63 corvair convert 100% rust free... all what you are use to... we have no inspections period here so I guess we are blessed
You also have the knowledge, experience, tools, and garage space to put a new engine in one of these rigs so you can have a higher tolerance for risk. You can probably feel comfortable buying sight unseen with several undercarriage pics as long as there's no rust and the price is right?
Congrats on the Corvair - cool first car for your kid.
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I bought a 2000 off ebay that I regret. Really nice inside, and ok mileage at 182K. Got it home and found a rust hole in the frame big enough to stick your thumb in. Right next to the cross-member. I won't sell it to anyone. My ex batted her eyes and got it to pass inspection so it is registered on the road, but I won't take it off road. I went through the same thought process you did re replacing the frame, and visited a couple of respected LC specialist shops in Northern Virginia. The telling quote was when I asked the hypothetical: "If I said money was no object, what would it cost to replace the frame and do this up right." The response was: we would start by taking your money and buying you another truck. I did confirm the thing is not actually unsafe to drive around on-road, but I am expecting a failure one day soon.
Also on rust, it was slightly pulling to one side, but still technically in-spec. Sears (which I figure can handle an alignment) tried like anything to get the bushings off which needed to be replaced. No go. So as others have said, it is not just the frame, but everything else tends to be frozen in place.
Just for fun here is a photo to my eternal shame for having purchased:
Nice, right?
Still looks great, right? Wait a sec....what's that dark spot on the cross-member!? (Which I missed on ebay.) Its a hole. And not the only one.
I have a 1998 coming in from Dubai that has 347K miles on it but is in great mechanical shape (I've had it gone through pretty thoroughly.) This 2000 is going to serve as the donor for the interior, and maybe a few other parts. Then this sad truck will be donated to the local public radio station. I won't sell it to anyone.
Also on rust, it was slightly pulling to one side, but still technically in-spec. Sears (which I figure can handle an alignment) tried like anything to get the bushings off which needed to be replaced. No go. So as others have said, it is not just the frame, but everything else tends to be frozen in place.
Just for fun here is a photo to my eternal shame for having purchased:
Nice, right?
Still looks great, right? Wait a sec....what's that dark spot on the cross-member!? (Which I missed on ebay.) Its a hole. And not the only one.
I have a 1998 coming in from Dubai that has 347K miles on it but is in great mechanical shape (I've had it gone through pretty thoroughly.) This 2000 is going to serve as the donor for the interior, and maybe a few other parts. Then this sad truck will be donated to the local public radio station. I won't sell it to anyone.
i'll buy anything if the price is right... i have a 2000lx that just sits with 250k on it ... it's just a back up ... but a friend just got back from out west in it last month... he just happen to be where ever the cruiser rally was... silver something maybe? he went to run a 100 mile race.. and camp out some... he asked... you sure this will make it? i just said try not to put more than 100k on it and you'll be fine... think i paid $5k for it 2 years ago
Replacing the frame in a truck rusty enough to need a frame is likely to be an enormous can of worms. I'd imagine the quote for the frame and associated labor is going to be just the tip of the iceberg. I'd patch the frame.
