frame blasting/painting

[RobE30]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a shop that can blast then paint the frame on my 80 and eventually the 40? I'm near Allentown Pa. I called Blastco in Quakertown, 2-2500 for blast and paint. I had all the stuff to do this BUT, divorce and rental house has precluded me from doing it myself.

 

[caz]

Is the frame out from under the vehicle?

If the frame is out, Amos Weaver in Ephrata. He will blast it for cheap, paint it yourself. When I say cheap, I would put it at less than $150 if I had to venture a guess.

 

[RobE30]

Is the frame out from under the vehicle?

If the frame is out, Amos Weaver in Ephrata. He will blast it for cheap, paint it yourself. When I say cheap, I would put it at less than $150 if I had to venture a guess.

Nope. The frame and vehicle is sitting in my driveway as I type this. Problem is, I have nowhere warm to paint it and it's December. Good lead on blasting!

 

[caz]

Not sure if nope means it is out or under the truck....

They also powder coat - that would be a decent option if you don't plan to do any future grinding/welding/mods to the frame.

 

[RobE30]

Not sure if nope means it is out or under the truck....

They also powder coat - that would be a decent option if you don't plan to do any future grinding/welding/mods to the frame.

Should've been more specific. The 80 is complete and is driven daily. I'm trying to prevent the underside from succumbing to road salt.

The 40 is complete also, waiting for me to pick it up.

 

[Dirty Koala]

If you are looking for them to remove the body from the frame, blast, paint and reassemble the truck then 2500 sounds like a bargain.

 

[Crusha]

I'm trying to prevent the underside from succumbing to road salt.

A lot of people swear by Fluid Film. I bought some myself, but have yet to apply it. there was a good thread in the CLCC clubhouse about it.

Any local fluid film applier?

Hello, would you happen to know any local fluid film appliers? Initially thought to have krown product applied from a shop in York, PA but somehow felt FF would be ideal for my 2000 which do have surface rust on it already. Intro- New into this group, bought a '00 LX from a mud member here...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[RobE30]

If you are looking for them to remove the body from the frame, blast, paint and reassemble the truck then 2500 sounds like a bargain.

The quote was to pull the truck in, degrease, blast everything with media (not sand), epoxy primer and paint with Imron chassis black. It's a lot of work but, it's a lot of cash to put out there. I know it's probably worth it in the long run but there's gotta be a less expensive option.

 

[drbeemer73]

I tried Fluid Film but found it stays sticky and accumulates/attracts dirt, particularly road dust, and it ends up being a mess.
Powder coating is not a panacea as it costs the part in plastic and I found the plastic may crack and then rust creeps under the plastic. It is also hard to touch up, whereas good paint just brushes on.

Two part epoxy has always been very good but it must be mixed so it catalyses and hardens, a very good result however.

There is now another option:
You can now buy a rattle can of paint but on the inside is an internal "bladder" of catalyst, which when pierced, will mix with the paint, which causes the paint to harden, even if it is inside the can, so it MUST be used within a certain amount of time. Identified by K2 being the first part of the name, see Amazon. The result is very tough paint.

There is a shop in Exton that put my vehicles on a lift, power washed the underside and then brushed on POR-15. POR stands for "Paint Over Rust". In the motorcycle world guys use it to successfully paint the inside of old gas tanks. I use it as a paint, brushing it over any part on a vehicle that has started to rust. It is so easy. Not a museum result, but presentable.

This shop gets Jeeps in with rust, and some of the frames are NLA, so they suggest to Jeepers to paint the outside, then clean the inside of the frame, let it dry, and push a rotating sprayer inside the frame and pull it through, coating the inside of the frame as well, just like Ziebart used to do.

Bull Dog Rod & Custom, talk with Jim, 610/431-1970. They will also do ANY work your truck may need, body work, install radios, full frame up restorations, resto rod, you name it. Say Hi! to Jim for me if you call. Very accommodating shop.

 

[brian]

you have more concerns with the 80s sheet metal coming to harm than you do the frame.
i've been daily drivings 80s for 11 years now and have not had frame issues. i do nothing to them, other than try to hit puddles on rainy days.
the 94 i have now is the brownist one i've had and still do not feel that there is anything to be worried about.....they have very robust frames.

 

[RobE30]

you have more concerns with the 80s sheet metal coming to harm than you do the frame.
i've been daily drivings 80s for 11 years now and have not had frame issues. i do nothing to them, other than try to hit puddles on rainy days.
the 94 i have now is the brownist one i've had and still do not feel that there is anything to be worried about.....they have very robust frames.

There's some speckling on the floor boards and I really want to try to keep this thing solid as long as possible.

 

[RobE30]

 

[Stumpalama]

The quote was to pull the truck in, degrease, blast everything with media (not sand), epoxy primer and paint with Imron chassis black. It's a lot of work but, it's a lot of cash to put out there. I know it's probably worth it in the long run but there's gotta be a less expensive option.

I doubt that... for a frame blast epoxy prime and paint for $2500? Is there a warranty?
That axle looks CRUSTY! Might want to take a screwdriver and start poking around... before a good flex on a trail reveals the weak point.

 

[jamarquardt22]

That axle looks CRUSTY! Might want to take a screwdriver and start poking around... before a good flex on a trail reveals the weak point.

X2!

Galva dip it? No idea on pricing but it will go inside the frame as well. Drawbacks may include and are not limited to. I doubt they will remove the body and everything and re install. Threaded holes will need drilled and re tapped. It will make welding a mofo.

 

[Crusha]

That axle looks CRUSTY! Might want to take a screwdriver and start poking around... before a good flex on a trail reveals the weak point.

I wheeled one of my 80's that had that much rust on the front axle. The rear lower control arm mounts decided they were no longer happy to be in a union with the axle housing. This happened at Anthracite, FAR from the lot, and on a difficult trail.

Not fun.

Possible day of wheeling at Anthracite this Sunday July 30

Greg and I may be wheeling at Anthracite this Sunday, at present depending on Greg's schedule and the weather. It would be nice to have a few more trucks. Intention is to explore and map out the western reserve- the area across route 125 from the staging area. Anyone interested?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[RobE30]

I wheeled one of my 80's that had that much rust on the front axle. The rear lower control arm mounts decided they were no longer happy to be in a union with the axle housing. This happened at Anthracite, FAR from the lot, and on a difficult trail.

Not fun.

Possible day of wheeling at Anthracite this Sunday July 30

Greg and I may be wheeling at Anthracite this Sunday, at present depending on Greg's schedule and the weather. It would be nice to have a few more trucks. Intention is to explore and map out the western reserve- the area across route 125 from the staging area. Anyone interested?

forum.ih8mud.com

View attachment 2153304View attachment 2153305

Well, s***. I'll be crawling under my truck today at lunch with a screwdriver and poking aggressively on the axles. Happily, my front axle leaked (along with the ps cooler) so much that it was covered with oil when I first got it. The rear could be concerning.... Thanks for the heads up guys

 

[jonheld]

I do a complete Fluid Film treatment every October in my driveway using a pneumatic paint sprayer. She stays rust free.
Yes, it attracts dirt. Dirt can be cleaned with a power washer, and do you really care what the underside of your truck looks like as long as it's not rusty?

 

[MadTripper]

I ended up ordering WoolWax...same company as Fluid Film but slightly different product. I agree with @jonheld in that I'd rather have dirt and protection over rust. I bought a 5 gallon bucket and the sprayer they sell (includes gun, hoses, containers...). There is a thread floating in the 100 series area with a discount code I believe is still active. I did order my product in black just because.
Side note...I found fluid film in spray bomb form at AutoZone the other day. I started hitting the little rusty areas under my hood like bolts and brackets.

Tripper

 

[jonheld]

I ended up ordering WoolWax...same company as Fluid Film but slightly different product.

Actually, they're 2 different companies and Fluid Film is pretty pissed at Kellsport. I wasn't aware of any of this until I contacted Fluid Film (Eureka Chemical) directly and asked about WoolWax.

 

[MadTripper]

Actually, they're 2 different companies and Fluid Film is pretty pissed at Kellsport. I wasn't aware of any of this until I contacted Fluid Film (Eureka Chemical) directly and asked about WoolWax.

I completely misread the post from the following thread. I was under the impression they were the same company!

This is where I checked my information as well as some video reviews of both products. As mentioned they are quite similar but less smell with the wool wax product and it is slightly thicker. Might be something worth check out out for the OP.

Thanks for clarifying @jonheld

Anyone try WoolWax yet?

Kellsport came out with a new product called WoolWax that is supposedly odor free and comes in two colors. As most of you know, I am an old fashioned grease monkey and I am always slathering either bar chain oil or Fluid Film on my undergarments as the first stages of my rust reversal school...

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