Font Axle Rebuild - Final Step - Axle Snap Ring Space Issue (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 1, 2004
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1,472
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Iowa
 
 
 
In my experience the shaft should have a little play that allows it to slide in/out without any material tension on it either way - to install the c clip it is pulled outward and the clip goes on, remaining without any real tension (and ABSOLUTELY not impacting bearing preload). Seems to me somethings definitely wrong.

If you're going to invest to have a mechanic get into it (probably many hundreds of $) I wouldnt risk damaging it by driving it to the shop, even though in theory it shouldnt be an issue... I'd just spend the $100 bucks or whatever to have it towed.
 

pb4ugo

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spay-lay-wi-theepi, Ohio
 
 
@csd1982, You need to ID the parts you are working with. erics is correct, the birfield should have some in & out play when the snap ring or washer is installed. The snap ring acts as stop so the birfield does not go into the diff/knuckle too far. Toyota used 2 different birfields, long & short. Long ones were used from 76 to 78, and 79 and later FJ40's used short ones along with mini trucks. Most of the aftermarket alloy birfs are short ones. When they changed birfields they changed the lockouts lengths too. You mentioned your birfs are aftermarket, so they are most likely short ones. In your 1st post on this thread, the pics shows a birf with a grease fitting, immediately behind the grease fitting in your pic is a washer, then the shaft splines and then the snap ring you installed. The washer does the same thing as the snap ring depending on the length of your lockouts. Did ya read the link I ref in post #13, if not here it is again below.

Lock out 101 (FAQ)

Looking at your 1st pic, it seems you should remove the snap ring if it's under some pressure. It should not be tight against the internal parts of the lockout. There should be a little in and out play. My guess is, you should just run the washer with the grease fitting holding it in place. No snap ring. Only you can confirm the parts you are running.
 
Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
1,472
Location
Iowa
 
 
 
I think the discussion of long vs short lockout bodies and birfs is probably not relevant here... the difference in length is somewhere in the range of 3/8-1/2" or more right? So as such there's no way a short birf with a long lockout body would come anywhere near allowing installation of the snap ring, even under significant tension. A long birf with a short lockout body would protrude excessively.

Instead I would bet on something installed incorrectly from spindle out, causing the hub to ride roughly 1/16-1/8th range too far outboard, allowing a snap ring to be force-installed under extreme tension. Something like extra dust shield/eliminator in there, or bearing race(s) not seated far enough, etc.

It needs to come apart to check...
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
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Chicago
 
So maybe you all won’t believe, think I’m a dumbass or both.

Long story short a took it all apart and reassembled a few times. It seems to be the wax paper gasket that goes between the lockout and hub. This is a thicker paper wax gasket. Without the gasket in place I can put the lockout on and easily put in the snap ring. No added preload to the bearing, the snap ring spins in the groove.

With the gasket and all bolts torqued down (don’t know the specs but tight) the snap ring won’t seat all the way. I can knock the snap ring in the groove with a punch as I did before but the pre-load then goes off my fish scale reading.

Maybe I’ll try a different gasket or not worry about it as the gasket will compress more over time?
 
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