Flexing the 3 link (21 Viewers)

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The absolute best mod anyone could do to their lifted 80 would be to fit a high steer type arm on the passenger knuckle, wether it be a slee, billybob or welded chunk, and an accompanied raised pan hard mount.

So many issues would be resolved that have nothing to do with the steering, but everything to do with the pan hard bar relationship to the chassis geometrically.

I've been thinking more about this lately. Seems like space is tight on the axle with the factory springs pads. What do you think would be the best way to raise the panhard at the axle? Would one of Ruff Stuff's prefabbed panhard mounts fit there?
 
Edit: nuke:

If i may, with all due respect. You have a paralell 4 link and stock panhard bar, correct?

If you will, can i ask for some measurements and then compare them to the factory radius arm specs on a spreadsheet to display a few things you may have overlooked in your design?

Specifically, your reference to panhard heights affectiveness on whats really going on on a lifted 80 chassis.
 
Yes, i believe billybob did this on an lx450 on pirate?

I've been thinking more about this lately. Seems like space is tight on the axle with the factory springs pads. What do you think would be the best way to raise the panhard at the axle? Would one of Ruff Stuff's prefabbed panhard mounts fit there?
 
Yes, i believe billybob did this on an lx450 on pirate?

Yeah I remember that one. Coilovers though, so a bit more room on the axle

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Another member here did exactly what you're describing using a Slee arm on the passenger side and a Ruff Stuff bracket. But he's on coilovers too

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What options (if any) are there for someone who wants to keep their ABS? Unless there is something I've missed, it looks like all the options force you to give it up.
 
What options (if any) are there for someone who wants to keep their ABS? Unless there is something I've missed, it looks like all the options force you to give it up.

Billy will, or would, machine the housing to accept the WSS. Don't know how much impact that has on the crap ass ABS, anyway.

Short of a dash light, can't imagine it'd ever be missed.
 
Back in the late 90s quite a few pirate mini truck members snickered at a SAS on a minitruck. They stated the limited articulation of the front ifs provided a more predictable suspension offroad and the rest of us were moving backwards with 1980s solid axles and leaf springs.

Apparently they were onto something cause the SAS never caught on...

The same thing happened on a smaller scale over the years to early bronco guys and the radius arm setup. More and more people found screaming high antidive and oversteering roll axis' to be annoying on these.

The 80 has never had a real following in these regards because its a heavy pig primarily used for other things not on pavement. Thats evolved a bit and the more people stuff these down rock gardens or try to daily drive them on 4-6" coils, the stock suspensions shortcomings poke out as the factory geometry has drastically changed.

You cant increase the angle towards the chassis of the radius arm in lifting it, while leaving the panhard in the stock, very low position. You have created major oversteer and very high antidive geometry. The same goes for the rear. The low tilted roll centers(oversteer) cause the wandering and body roll. The rear high antisquat wastes propulsion forces on spring unloading.

The front 3 link presents an upper link to afford the opportunity to decrease the gigantic antidive the angled radius arms create. In the side view, you make the uppers and lowers converge in vectors intersecting at a hieght lower than Center of gravity(guesstimated at the top of the bell housing of the transmission). The longer, flatter lower links, combined with the raised panhard axle mounts reduce the oversteer angle of the roll axis and the twitchy weird steering and combined body roll feeling.

I will gladly concede to learning all of this by making mistakes. Driving linked vehicles that gave me white knuckles and terrified anyone else from driving them. Studying, and then making changes.

Wow thanks for clearing that up.
 
Edit: nuke:

If i may, with all due respect. You have a paralell 4 link and stock panhard bar, correct?

If you will, can i ask for some measurements and then compare them to the factory radius arm specs on a spreadsheet to display a few things you may have overlooked in your design?

Specifically, your reference to panhard heights affectiveness on whats really going on on a lifted 80 chassis.

You have a spreadsheet that calculates the roll axis for a 5-link? Or is this just an exercise in drawing conclusions from both of Triaged's calculators?

I don't need to break out the tape measure. You said flattening the steering and track bar is awesome for any lifted 80 so just use some hypothetical scenarios and make your point.
 
I have been able to get almost full articulation out of the factory arm set up with some tweaks. It does come at a price, nothing in the front suspension is happy, nothing, parts are short lived, and things are stressed hard. I dont think Toyotas design considered any but 6" travel shocks in there design. Can you get good handling with lots of articulation I would yes if you throw enough money at but in the end its still a big 6K station wagon. We always want more but sometime it makes more $ense to paint with the colors you have.
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I drive an 80 currently that is a nightmare.

Was she THAT old and ugly?

Pics, man. Pics.

Let a jury of your peers decide!

You can put 2" 300m torsion bars on your lifted 80 if you want.

Where do you know of capable of producing larger than 1 1/8"X50" bar?

I thought Toyota's dumb engineering wasn't in the suspension

I was fueling the fire and your comment fit the bill.

Wasn't personal. :flipoff2:
 
Its the same as a 3 link, except you bind up eventually.

If my comments are offending you, thats not the intention and i offer an apology either way.

If people love their radius arms and dont mind the weird querks they envoke on a lifted 80, thats fine. Ill shutup and go back to googling geriatric porn sites.

But somebody with 4/6" slee coils, lift the front and rear panhards 3-4" and report back on how it drives straighter, doesnt have exagerated steering inputs and that vague body roll feeling seems to go back to stockish.

You have a spreadsheet that calculates the roll axis for a 5-link? Or is this just an exercise in drawing conclusions from both of Triaged's calculators?

I don't need to break out the tape measure. You said flattening the steering and track bar is awesome for any lifted 80 so just use some hypothetical scenarios and make your point.
 
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The hellfire knuckles i have have an abs hole. I dunno that the system really serves much good once a 36-37" tire is on the truck. Mine just caused s***ty brakes and felt unsafe. Its disconnected.

What options (if any) are there for someone who wants to keep their ABS? Unless there is something I've missed, it looks like all the options force you to give it up.
 
Its the same as a 3 link, except you bind up eventually.

If my comments are offending you, thats not the intention and i offer an apology either way.

If people love their radius arms and dont mind the weird querks they envoke on a lifted 80, thats fine. Ill shutup and go back to googling geriatric porn sites.

But somebody with 4/6" slee coils, lift the front and rear panhards 3-4" and report back on how it drives straighter, doesnt have exagerated steering inputs and that vague body roll feeling seems to go back to stockish.

Apologies on my end too. Honestly, we agree on the argument you're making, I think we just disagree on the magnitude of effect. I may be biased because I'm too lazy and cheap to bother dropping the money required to flatten my track bar/drag link. But anecdotally others say it does make a difference. For anyone reading this thread in the future, yes, raising your panhard is a good idea if you have the time or inclination.

I still contend a 3-link has some disadvantages over radius arms, but the Toyota implementation leaves a lot to be desired once you lift the rig.
 
If my comments are offending you, thats not the intention and i offer an apology either way.

Huh?

You've been spending too much time on PBB.

If people love their radius arms and dont mind the weird querks they envoke on a lifted 80, thats fine.

Quirky is an understatement.

Won't let anyone else drive.

Ill shutup and go back to googling geriatric porn sites.

Ride Sally Ride.

But somebody with 4/6" slee coils, lift the front and rear panhards 3-4" and report back on how it drives straighter, doesnt have exagerated steering inputs and that vague body roll feeling seems to go back to stockish.

Sounds fine and good, but in my case, having dumped a metric s*** ton of money into parts that claimed to negate that very thing, would like to be able to say, without doubt, before throwing more money into the depths of the rabbit hole.

Been a bottomless pit with each "fix" furthering the distance between a vehicle only I can drive, versus one I'd feel comfortable with anyone else piloting.

Realize that's no one else's responsibility and not insinuating otherwise, but every 3 link post I read that claims to drive as good as OE is swallowed with a shaker of salt, since that's the exact same thing I read about the crap I've already ran and determined a fail.

You're suggesting that a return of the panhard/drag link (realize the angles are established by drag link) to the OE angles should mitigate body roll, regardless of link/radius arm?

Mark said the same and it fell on deaf ears, mine included, but I'll try it and guarantee an honest report.

Now to go round up a couple of more Gs to throw at it....
 
edited by the moderator- no personal attacks in tech
 
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I have a suspension rookie question: What if you removed the radius arms, made new control arms with Heims or Johny joints, and used the stock radius arm frame mount and the rearmost axle mounting hole. Gusseting the axle side mounts since they look kind of flimsy. Speculations ?
 

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