Flexing the 3 link (7 Viewers)

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I think radflo does the nitride thing too. 4wu is a vendor for all things that go boing


just one thought on the above they are all pretty much the same (red,blue, baby blue or black) but the icon's (black) have some better rod coatings then the others so if you live in a corrosive environment i.e. salted roads i would go with the icons. otherwise they're all basically the same!
 
Im still using higher Antidive and heavier springs to safely slam on the brakes on the freeway. Some are using softer spring and more compression dampening, but dont commute in the fast lane. Im not sure my ideas work for everyones needs on this.

Im 200(14") over 400(16") on 14" fox 2.5s stuffed with 4wu's minitruck shim prescrption. The top spring is nearly irrelevant since the dualrate collar is only about an inch off the 400lb spring.

This is pretty stiff buy most standards, but so are slee coils and i find them to be quite nice all around.


Bummer. What about spring rates / lengths? I assume you just have to experiment with shock valving after you select your springs?
 
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There are spring rate calculators out there. Read some of billa vistas spring rate coilover bible, it helps.
 
There are spring rate calculators out there. Read some of billa vistas spring rate coilover bible, it helps.

Thanks. I've read it in the past. Right now I'm more interested in figuring out how people are valving and what rates they're running. It'd be cheaper, I'd assume, to use 2.0" shock bodies... any reason that's a dumb idea?
 
A bunch of 200 over 350 from my research. Rocdoc, brian osbournes project rig and action jacksons old rig i believe. Theres another guy w an lx450 on 40s here who drives his on the street(jbcruiser?) a bunch too. I dunno if you just use youres for wheelin or smash priuses at starbucks too:) if its note driving down the interstate you should read zukizzys thread on pirate(general section). I think its on the first page right now




Thanks. I've read it in the past. Right now I'm more interested in figuring out how people are valving and what rates they're running. It'd be cheaper, I'd assume, to use 2.0" shock bodies... any reason that's a dumb idea?
 
From your website:

"The Four-Link + panhard bar which is also referred to as a “Five-Link” by the OEM’s, uses two uppers, two lowers and a panhard bar. Unlike the three-link, which has the upper and lower converging at some point, the four-link’s upper and lowers are of equal length and parallel to each other. Without this key ingredient the four-link is a glorified version of the radius arm system."


Ah. perhaps I explained it poorly. what I was trying to say is the key ingredient is to make sure they are equal length and parallel. with out that you'll have binding.

is that how you read it?
 
There are spring rate calculators out there. Read some of billa vistas spring rate coilover bible, it helps.

Unless you don't plan on tuning the coilover I would disregard that article. The calculator is a nice tool just like the link calc but selecting a spring rate based on spring frequency is pointless.
 
Nope. It binds regardless of length, angles, seperation, etc. You cant have 5 links on a suspension without things getting snug in articulation.

Ah. perhaps I explained it poorly. what I was trying to say is the key ingredient is to make sure they are equal length and parallel. with out that you'll have binding.

is that how you read it?
 
No, its binding because the axle cant twist and relies on bushings to squish and deform in articulation. And if the links were triangulated, it would be significanyly worse as the panhard couldnt swing in its arch

But it isn't binding because of axle twist like a radius arm. Its binding because it doesn't have triangulation.
 
A bunch of 200 over 350 from my research. Rocdoc, brian osbournes project rig and action jacksons old rig i believe. Theres another guy w an lx450 on 40s here who drives his on the street(jbcruiser?) a bunch too. I dunno if you just use youres for wheelin or smash priuses at starbucks too:) if its note driving down the interstate you should read zukizzys thread on pirate(general section). I think its on the first page right now

Think his is 400 and 350
 
Ah. perhaps I explained it poorly. what I was trying to say is the key ingredient is to make sure they are equal length and parallel. with out that you'll have binding.

is that how you read it?

"Glorified radius arm setup" implies that the only distinction between suspension designs is how much they bind in use. What's more, a non-parallel, non-equal-length 4-link can have an effective range of travel where it isn't twisting the axle tube much (if at all). Again, model the rear of the 80 and you'll see what I'm talking about.
 
"Glorified radius arm setup" implies that the only distinction between suspension designs is how much they bind in use. What's more, a non-parallel, non-equal-length 4-link can have an effective range of travel where it isn't twisting the axle tube much (if at all). Again, model the rear of the 80 and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Well it will bind at some point do to the difference in swing from the panhard from the other four links, I had a bad choice of words it sounds like. I personally dislike radius arms. And pretty much everything works better then they do. I know if I added a second upper link to my suspension it wouldn't flex AS well. To what extent... depends on lots of things. Expectation one of them.
 
Won't work and no more beneficial than they current orientation.

First, the PS arm would hit the frame rail.

It's my feeler for wheeling Braille, to give an idea the arch, which I grown accustomed to and would have to concoct some other method of device to bang on, letting my know chit's getting real, in it's absence.

Second, the attachment on the DS is the critical component of the SEs ability to articulate and since it's attachment is a vertical orientation on the back of the housing, flipping does nothing, plus the arms are substantially longer already, so, in theory, they return the axle to the correct location and orientation.

They've already "fixed" one aspect, and, if what everyone else is saying is true, all it needs is the panhard/draglink raised to correct the undesirable attributes....of course, that's after a double, double cardan driveshaft and cut and turn, since those critical instances weren't achieved in the original arm design.

Someone smarter than I wants to run through a calculator to prove me
Won't work and no more beneficial than they current orientation.

First, the PS arm would hit the frame rail.

It's my feeler for wheeling Braille, to give an idea the arch, which I grown accustomed to and would have to concoct some other method of device to bang on, letting my know chit's getting real, in it's absence.

Second, the attachment on the DS is the critical component of the SEs ability to articulate and since it's attachment is a vertical orientation on the back of the housing, flipping does nothing, plus the arms are substantially longer already, so, in theory, they return the axle to the correct location and orientation.

They've already "fixed" one aspect, and, if what everyone else is saying is true, all it needs is the panhard/draglink raised to correct the undesirable attributes....of course, that's after a double, double cardan driveshaft and cut and turn, since those critical instances weren't achieved in the original arm design.

Someone smarter than I wants to run through a calculator to prove me dead ass wrong, I'll gladly measure.



Sounds like a nice girl. she is a awesome wife and mom. STILL WEARS A SIZE ONE AND WEIGHS 100 LBS. After 24 years i wouldn't trade her for two twenty year olds, maybe three though.



The obligatory "pics or I'm calling BS" reply suits, but please wax that ass, first. No need too! No pics either because once you relase the you never get them back.



I did get smaller on screen....



This is irrefutable truth and discussions of their merits probably don't belong in a 3 link thread, if comparing, solely, geometry and movement.

That said, I've a selfish, ulterior motive in attempting to compare, primarily a planning method to fix my chit once and for all, because I'm tired of it and it's bogged down completion of the easiest "build" I've undertaken.

Not bragging, trust me, but I'd pit the SE arms and flexy coils against what three linked 80 on coils, I've seen, any day, IF articulation and coil retention are the determining winning factors.

The arms are a fail from a caster correction and pinion angle perspective, but any linked will require C&T, since inherent to the OE housing is the inability to have you cake and eat it too, IF AWD and a constant barrage of soccer moms beating a direct path for a Sybian style ride pose a problem in your marriage.

ead ass wrong, I'll gladly measure.



Sounds like a nice girl.

The obligatory "pics or I'm calling BS" reply suits, but please wax that ass, first.



I did get smaller on screen....



This is irrefutable truth and discussions of their merits probably don't belong in a 3 link thread, if comparing, solely, geometry and movement.

That said, I've a selfish, ulterior motive in attempting to compare, primarily a planning method to fix my chit once and for all, because I'm tired of it and it's bogged down completion of the easiest "build" I've undertaken.

Not bragging, trust me, but I'd pit the SE arms and flexy coils against what three linked 80 on coils, I've seen, any day, IF articulation and coil retention are the determining winning factors.

The arms are a fail from a caster correction and pinion angle perspective, but any linked will require C&T, since inherent to the OE housing is the inability to have you cake and eat it too, IF AWD and a constant barrage of soccer moms beating a direct path for a Sybian style ride pose a problem in your marriage.
 
Won't work and no more beneficial than they current orientation.

First, the PS arm would hit the frame rail.

It's my feeler for wheeling Braille, to give an idea the arch, which I grown accustomed to and would have to concoct some other method of device to bang on, letting my know chit's getting real, in it's absence.

Second, the attachment on the DS is the critical component of the SEs ability to articulate and since it's attachment is a vertical orientation on the back of the housing, flipping does nothing, plus the arms are substantially longer already, so, in theory, they return the axle to the correct location and orientation.

They've already "fixed" one aspect, and, if what everyone else is saying is true, all it needs is the panhard/draglink raised to correct the undesirable attributes....of course, that's after a double, double cardan driveshaft and cut and turn, since those critical instances weren't achieved in the original arm design.

Someone smarter than I wants to run through a calculator to prove me dead ass wrong, I'll gladly measure.



Sounds like a nice girl.

The obligatory "pics or I'm calling BS" reply suits, but please wax that ass, first.



I did get smaller on screen....



This is irrefutable truth and discussions of their merits probably don't belong in a 3 link thread, if comparing, solely, geometry and movement.

That said, I've a selfish, ulterior motive in attempting to compare, primarily a planning method to fix my chit once and for all, because I'm tired of it and it's bogged down completion of the easiest "build" I've undertaken.

Not bragging, trust me, but I'd pit the SE arms and flexy coils against what three linked 80 on coils, I've seen, any day, IF articulation and coil retention are the determining winning factors.

The arms are a fail from a caster correction and pinion angle perspective, but any linked will require C&T, since inherent to the OE housing is the inability to have you cake and eat it too, IF AWD and a constant barrage of soccer moms beating a direct path for a Sybian style ride pose a problem in your marriage.[/QUOTE
 

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