My apologies if I offended you, My comment where directly related to lelandEOD insistence that the arms shouldn't clearanced. the way he was talking I assumed that it was his truck and he stated that he wasn't going to debate how much was OK to remove.I'll be the first to admit it was user error, but sorry for not being a metallurgy expert. I'd argue that my common sense is better than most, but apparently not yours. I clearanced them on the vehicle before a trip and cycled the suspension a few times to make sure the oversized tie rod was not hitting. In hindsight, I probably could have removed a bit less material and not left a sharp notch perpendicular to the top of the arm, which created a stress riser. Now I know. There isn't exactly a "how to" guide on this. They lasted 10 years and multiple trips on the Rubicon, Dusy Ershim, and Moab before failing when 6500lbs of 80 series came down hard on that single arm. Multiple contingencies were in place to get the truck moving again, but in this situation "plan A" worked well.
Lesson learned, fixed likely for good with the Delta Arms. Anything other than castor correcting radius arms on a larger lift and big tires is less than ideal.
The fact that they lasted as long as the did on your truck is proof that if done correctly it's not a issue.
My common sense tells me if your clearancing a I-beam ( the arms are built like a I-beam ) if your remove the top flange of said I-beam it well lose a significant amount of structural integrity and the straight cuts magnified the issue. I can also see over cuts in the pictures. To be fair I have a 40 year back round in building.
Here's a picture of my arms Clearanced you can see very little of the top flange was removed and everything is smooth. PS I wheel the piss out of them!!