Has anyone examined whether you can swap the FJ62 Toyota mirror electrics into the aftermarket manual FJ62 mirrors sold by CruiserCorps, or others? This would allow you to replace the OEM mirrors with bad chrome, and not go broke in the process.
FJ62 mirrors - swapping internals
- Thread starter SteveH
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Please let me know if you get a response. I've asked this question before with no reply.... I want to do the same thing you do.
- Thread starter
- #3
My fear is that the aftermarket mirrors will be made of light, cheap plastic, and after you're all done, the mirrors will shake. Toyota mirrors shake enough already!
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah I am looking for a way to solidify my drivers side mirror. Passenger doesnt shake to badly, not near as bad as the original FJ60 mirror. Drivers side is a different story, but thinking that since I have the mirror "placement/angle" to my liking I may use some expanding foam (like you would put inside your walls of your house) in the bottom of the mirror housing to see if that will act as a vibration absorber and also solidify the mirror assembly.
To the initial post, I have not figured it out yet. Regarding the DS shake versus the PS shake - what I've witnessed is both of my mirrors have 'about' the same amount of slop when manually wiggling them but on the road the DS shakes quite a bit more and I think it can be attributed to the DS mirror housing. The DS mirror, when positioned, has the mirror sitting a bit outside of the housing (at the base) compared to the PS mirror so it is under constant assault from wind whereas the PS side mirror when positioned is almost completely seated within the housing. Also the DS housing has a recess cut into the bottom of it exposing the base of the mirror to more wind while the PS mirror housing does not have the recess at the base. I assume over time this causes the parts within the DS mirror to wear and attributes to the difference in slop between the mirrors.
‘Servicing’ the mirror just requires popping the mirror free from the base/housing – there are no screws, the mirror is fastened via various plastic ball/socket type connections. There are 2 balls connected to the motor (housed within rubber boots) that pop into the sockets on the mirror and there is a large centered ball mounted to the motor that snaps into the center of the mirror. The mirror has 2 plastic bars, 1 on either side of the centered ball socket, that snap into the base/motor. Major PITA to remove the mirror without breaking the various plastic fasteners… but it can be done.
‘Servicing’ the mirror just requires popping the mirror free from the base/housing – there are no screws, the mirror is fastened via various plastic ball/socket type connections. There are 2 balls connected to the motor (housed within rubber boots) that pop into the sockets on the mirror and there is a large centered ball mounted to the motor that snaps into the center of the mirror. The mirror has 2 plastic bars, 1 on either side of the centered ball socket, that snap into the base/motor. Major PITA to remove the mirror without breaking the various plastic fasteners… but it can be done.
- Thread starter
- #6
My DS mirror shakes more than my passenger's side mirror, too. Thanks for the photos, etc. - all good info for this discussion.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So I did my ghetto fix using $4 expanding foam and it worked like a charm!!! Drove a few hundred miles this weekend and the mirror still vibrates but very little now, enough that you can actually see what a vehicle is.
Has anyone seen just the mirror face piece that snaps into the housing? My glass was glued with liquid nails by my dad, and is now cracked in every direction.......thanks dad.....
Is there anyone who has a manual 62 mirror who can just pop off the mirror pad and send us a pic of your guts? Please? I know I can just swap for a manual mirror, but I have the buttons so I'd like to use them.....
- Thread starter
- #11
Following up on this - I bought 2 manual OEM Toyota mirrors from City Racer, and installed them on my FJ62. I took apart the old power and the new manual to see if the guts could be swapped, but part of the shake in the mirrors is due to wear in the motorized adjuster mechanism. After much hemming and hawing, I just installed the 2 new manual mirrors. The mirror - how steady, the chrome - how it glows. Bliss.
I rarely adjust the FJ62 mirrors anyway, because they are so big, so lack of power adjustment just won't cause me to lose much sleep. City Racer did a fine job of packing and shipping - very satisfied with the seller.
I rarely adjust the FJ62 mirrors anyway, because they are so big, so lack of power adjustment just won't cause me to lose much sleep. City Racer did a fine job of packing and shipping - very satisfied with the seller.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
nothing wrong with the oem manual big face mirrors...
Anyone know what size screws you use to mount the side mirrors on a fj62? I’ve tried 1/4” and the #10 machine screws and nothing seems to work ... had some random parted mirrors on my fj and putting some aftermarket Manual big face matte black ones on.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Get them new from Toyota, Part Number 90154-60007. They're metric, don't recall the thread diameter and pitch off-hand.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Gimme a couple hours; I’ll go check.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Pretty sure these are a metric m8 x 1 ... that is 8mm diameter with 1 thread per mm of length... McMaster Carr has all kinda alloy Allen head or stainless hex head fasteners. I’d use some black oxide alloy low profile Allen headed cap screws. Hth
How difficult is the OEM mirror swap to the aftermarket?
I purcahsed the aftermarket, as I am tired of peeling chrome, and didn't see a "how to" on it.
Thanks
Makes it seem worth the work to adapt FJC mirrors (I like them. Don't judge me). Something I've been wanting to experiment with for quite some time, but very low on the list of priorities. Maybe one of these days I'll get a pair and play around with a template for a sheet metal adapter that could be welded or bolted to the doors. Be slick to have the heat and then wire the lights to coincide with blinkers.
@LAMBCRUSHER I'd use black stainless. Black oxide corrodes insanely fast when exposed to the elements. Big +1 on McMaster for the source though. Just wish their shipping wasn't damn near the entire cost of the parts.
@LAMBCRUSHER I'd use black stainless. Black oxide corrodes insanely fast when exposed to the elements. Big +1 on McMaster for the source though. Just wish their shipping wasn't damn near the entire cost of the parts.
