If you flip the FR,LH switch at the Door Switch to 'Down', current will flow in from the 'hot' L wire, through the now closed 'Down' side of the switch for FR,LH motor at the Door Switch, pass through the motor (in a direction that will rotate the FR,LH window down), back up through the still undisturbed Up side of the FR,LH Door Switch, back up through the undisturbed 'Up' side of the FR,LH Master Switch, out through ground at the FR,LH Master Switch, through the closed Lock Switch and out to a common ground.
FJ62 Drivers Power Window (AutoDown) Relay Fix
- Thread starter slcfj62
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I think, if we can figure out how/where that Driver's side (FR,RH) Window Motor circuit grounds, you should be able to wire FR, RH Window Motor directly to the FR,RH switch on the Master Switch (because the Master Switch is protected by a Circuit Breaker in front of it), but only if the ground works the same way as the other 3.
If, for some reason, the FR,RH Window Motor circuit grounds through the relay, then it would require a little more finesse to figure this out...
If, for some reason, the FR,RH Window Motor circuit grounds through the relay, then it would require a little more finesse to figure this out...
Question: I'm wondering why you are trying to bypass the Power Window Relay? In other words, what are the symptoms...is one or more window not working? Does it work at the Door Switch but not the Master Switch...? Does the Relay keep going bad and you have to replace it often?
The reason I'm asking, is a solution to solving issues with Power Window and Door Switch contacts going bad has already been proposed and adopted by the MUD community, and it consisted of ADDING in relays to switches that did not have them...and wiring individual switches to ground (in the case of Power Window switches) for each switch when adding in those relays...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/power-windows-and-door-locks-permanent-fix.261058/
In other words, removing the stock Power Window Relay and wiring the switch directly to the motor might be heading in the wrong direction...in terms of technological evolution here...maybe? What are your thoughts, HoJo?
Oh wow, you are a genius!! 
Much appreciated!
To answer your question about FR,RH ground point, the relay must have it's own ground point somewhere as it has 9 pin connector, and the wiring diagram shows only 7 wires to it, or did i miss something?
Main reasons for bypassing the relay are, i can't find used or new relay anywhere, and i'm not that good electrician, most likely i'll get things even worse. Or burn the whole car. All the windows except drivers window (FR,RH) works perfectly from their own door switches. I had the relay at a shop and the guy said he did change something to it and it should work perfectly now.
I have read the thread, but i don't feel comfy doing all that required wiring. My HJ could burn once again i guess..
Much appreciated! To answer your question about FR,RH ground point, the relay must have it's own ground point somewhere as it has 9 pin connector, and the wiring diagram shows only 7 wires to it, or did i miss something?
Main reasons for bypassing the relay are, i can't find used or new relay anywhere, and i'm not that good electrician, most likely i'll get things even worse. Or burn the whole car. All the windows except drivers window (FR,RH) works perfectly from their own door switches. I had the relay at a shop and the guy said he did change something to it and it should work perfectly now.
I have read the thread, but i don't feel comfy doing all that required wiring. My HJ could burn once again i guess..
Ha! No worries...Well, I'm not so sure about that...but I don't quit and work my tail off to try to get it right...Oh wow, you are a genius!!
I think so...and it also might be that some of the ground pins for the 3 other windows are actually connected together...since they all share a common ground.
Main reasons for bypassing the relay are, i can't find used or new relay anywhere, and i'm not that good electrician, most likely i'll get things even worse. Or burn the whole car. All the windows except drivers window (FR,RH) works perfectly from their own door switches. I had the relay at a shop and the guy said he did change something to it and it should work perfectly now.
I have read the thread, but i don't feel comfy doing all that required wiring. My HJ could burn once again i guess..
If the concern is that you won't be able to easily find a replacement relay if the one you have recently fixed goes bad again, there's got to be a solution to that, too. I would appear that the Power Window Relay that Toyota installed OEM is special in the sense that it connects to both the Master Switch for that FR,RH window AND the Auto Up/Down function. If you really had to, I'm sure you could find an aftermarket relay that connects to the Master Switch for the FR, RH window and doesn't connect to the Auto Up/Down...that would bypass that function and make it simpler...
EDIT: so, assuming that the HJ61 Power Window circuit is wired the same as the FJ62 (after having gone through all that wiring diagram searching earlier), then you should be able to find and solder in the same replacement relays for this Power Window Relay that the OP posted up in post #1 of this thread!!! It would appear that one is for the Auto Up/Down and the other for the FR,RH switch...
But, I would recommend going back and taking a look at the solution that slcfj62 provides in that thread...and have your electronics buddy take a look at it too...because the weakness to the way Toyota designed the circuit for these Power Windows seems to be allowing the switch contacts to directly see the 12V+ instead of using a relay to deliver it to each one individually. Adding in the relays reduces the wear on the switches, so those will most likely wear out more quickly in the future without doing the mod.
Also, from what I understand after glancing over that thread, when he adds in the relays to the other 3 switches, he grounds each one individually, bypassing the shared ground through the Lock Switch.
And he leaves the FR, RH Window Switch/Relay circuit alone...I think...since it already has a relay on it.
Anyways, it seems like you've got it working as of the moment, but if you run into trouble post up again and I'll try to lend a hand if I can...hope some of this helped...I know I certainly learned a thing or two...
Cheers!
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Thanks again, @Slow Left
I´ll get the power window relay to the shop once more and make sure it is surely working as supposed.
Looks like Toyota ain't making 24V parts anymore, one resource out of the list.
Also, i may have to check the wires, or the master switch once more also as the windows are not working from it.. damn electrical creations
E: Found this, any help on finding a way to bypass the relay box?
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/88lc-wire/88lc-wd5.gif
I´ll get the power window relay to the shop once more and make sure it is surely working as supposed.
Looks like Toyota ain't making 24V parts anymore, one resource out of the list.
Also, i may have to check the wires, or the master switch once more also as the windows are not working from it.. damn electrical creations
E: Found this, any help on finding a way to bypass the relay box?
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/88lc-wire/88lc-wd5.gif
Ok, been a while since last reply, but the problem still exists.
A friend of mine took a look on the power window relay and it's shot. Just like i excepted.
He said he can't get it working so now i have got two options left.
1. Buy an on-off-on 6 pole(?) switch and re-wire the drivers power window and use the new switch = bypass the broken relay and power window master switch.
2. I found two 24V relays from a tool box, re-wire for those and use existing master switch? I really would like to have the original switch, but again, i'm not that much of an electrician to know how to wire these?
The relays are these if it matters: http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332209204.asp
E: Something like that might work?
E2: I wired it like that picture above, still nothing. I used the original master switch, i guess i have to try with aux switch once more, then i dunno what to do. Maybe move to 80 series...
or to manual windows 
@Slow Left
A friend of mine took a look on the power window relay and it's shot. Just like i excepted.
He said he can't get it working so now i have got two options left.
1. Buy an on-off-on 6 pole(?) switch and re-wire the drivers power window and use the new switch = bypass the broken relay and power window master switch.
2. I found two 24V relays from a tool box, re-wire for those and use existing master switch? I really would like to have the original switch, but again, i'm not that much of an electrician to know how to wire these?
The relays are these if it matters: http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332209204.asp
E: Something like that might work?
E2: I wired it like that picture above, still nothing. I used the original master switch, i guess i have to try with aux switch once more, then i dunno what to do. Maybe move to 80 series...
or to manual windows @Slow Left
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Works now.
My FJ62 power front passenger window quit working. It has now gone completely kaput. Previously it ran very slow but worked with either the door switch or the driver master switch. However, before it stopped working you could only roll it down with the passenger side switch and it would only go up with the master switch on the driver’s side. All other windows and switches work great. Any suggestions?
BulletHead
Village Idiot
Does this (replace relay) also resolve exxxtremely slow windows that hardly move half an inch and then just stop?
Whenever my driver window gets stuck up or down, if I apply pressure on the connection to the relay box it will work. Is this the same problem you guys are having? I'm just wondering if new relays will solve my issue, or could it be a bad connection? I even used tie wraps to secure the connection, but of course it left me stuck with my window down in the rain again!
Thanks for the write-up. I was stuck with a driver window that wouldn't roll back up. After pulling that green box (I opened it by heating it first with a hair dryer as someone suggested), I found one of the relays had a little black char where one of the pins should be. Swapped in the new relays and were rolling again!
Bump back up to the top, was wondering if this relay mod will cure the SLOW windows that still work or do the window motors need a cleaning/replacement?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Here you go:
Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!
EDIT: This thread got longer than a Russian Folk tale. Since it got put in the FAQ, let me add a bit of a table of contents for quicker access to the meat of the thread: Power door lock mod--Posts 27 to 32 Power window mod--Posts 47 to 51 Discussion about grounding-- Posts 76 to 83 Most of...
forum.ih8mud.com
I hav e the same question- I can't find the answer in the permanent fix- my driver's side window is slow. Its likely the motor and the channel, but will new relays (on the driver's side front) fix the slow windows? Or is the relay an all or nothing thing- I would think its all of nothing, but not an electrical guy. I am going through my windows and locks now.
While I'm yutzing around with my windows (and now lock solenoids) I'm going to go ahead and do this on mine. Still works, but I'd be willing to bet the contacts inside the relays are pretty well pitted and old (think like the contacts inside the door master switch), so curious to see if new relays will make any difference with power getting to the window motor. Logically, they should. Enough to be noticeable? That remains to be seen. I did find matching Panasonic relays on DigiKey with a contact rating of 20A, over the 12A rating of the NTE relays. My hope is that the larger internal contacts will be able to supply the motor's maximum current demand for longer term. Thinking lifespan here. No performance increase; that'll only come from replacing worn contacts with new ones via replacing the relays. The P/N for the Panasonic relays is 255-2220-ND. Hoping this is another step towards more long term reliable window operation.
EDIT: I didn't measure the pin spacing right. The factory OMRON relays' outer four pins are 12mm square spacing, and the Panasonic relays are only 10mm square spacing. I tweaked the leads to get them to match the holes in the PCB (which I only did because I have the right soldering tip to reach into the hole and ensure solder would flow against the lead AND the pad; so I don't advise this for the novice). Frankly, I would much rather just have the right measurements. I'm going to look and see if I can find a set with 20A or higher contact current and the correct lead dimensions. Worst case, I stick with the NTE relays originally referenced and lose nothing but a few minutes' soldering time and a couple bucks.
EDIT: I didn't measure the pin spacing right. The factory OMRON relays' outer four pins are 12mm square spacing, and the Panasonic relays are only 10mm square spacing. I tweaked the leads to get them to match the holes in the PCB (which I only did because I have the right soldering tip to reach into the hole and ensure solder would flow against the lead AND the pad; so I don't advise this for the novice). Frankly, I would much rather just have the right measurements. I'm going to look and see if I can find a set with 20A or higher contact current and the correct lead dimensions. Worst case, I stick with the NTE relays originally referenced and lose nothing but a few minutes' soldering time and a couple bucks.
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So I kind of went whole hog on mine and not only replaced the relays (with 16A capacity, which won't offer a performance increase as far as the window motors, but will hopefully last longer before deterioration of the contacts leads to reduction in current throughput), but did the capacitors as well to kind of "refresh" the whole thing and make essentially a new part as far as wearable components are concerned. My driver's window didn't have any serious problems beyond just being slower than it should be, so there were no problems to fix, but it did speed up my window just a touch (about a half second up & down; not nearly as dramatic a difference as the new flocked window channel makes, which I HIGHLY recommend). That being said, it is nice having a practically brand new part in place that I know is good and won't have any issues in the near future.
I'm considering offering this as a service, given the part is NLA and a used one that's just as old and may or may not already have problems is going for about $250 from reputable parts sites and $400+ from eBay. New relays, capacitors, and minor repairs to the plastic housing if needed (mine did. It's ABS, which I use a solvent cement that takes 3 days to fully cure, but is a perfect plastic weld), I'm thinking with the 1.5 hr or so of work it takes plus the (low) cost of supplies I could do $100 plus shipping to me (so testing and shipping back would be included). Any interest at all?
I'm considering offering this as a service, given the part is NLA and a used one that's just as old and may or may not already have problems is going for about $250 from reputable parts sites and $400+ from eBay. New relays, capacitors, and minor repairs to the plastic housing if needed (mine did. It's ABS, which I use a solvent cement that takes 3 days to fully cure, but is a perfect plastic weld), I'm thinking with the 1.5 hr or so of work it takes plus the (low) cost of supplies I could do $100 plus shipping to me (so testing and shipping back would be included). Any interest at all?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I'd definitely be interested.
Scro
SILVER Star
count me in.
