FJ62 Drivers Power Window (AutoDown) Relay Fix

[slcfj62]

Just did this fix after replacing the motor and cleaning all the contacts and finally got my drivers window working. Oh well got an all new system in that door good for another 20 years. One question though, now none of my other windows work, any ideas?

The ground path for all of the power windows besides the drivers window is through the LOCK switch in the master panel. So if all your windows besides the drivers window quit after you had the master panel apart to clean the contacts, check the position and condition of the LOCK switch in the master panel (this is the window lock switch, not the power door locks switch).

 

[donjuanmiguel]

I'm having drivers side window issues as well. when I try to raise it I only hear a click, which seems to to be coming from the relay box. the stock volt meter does not show a draw like it does when working the other windows. does this sound like a bad relay or dead motor?

I'm electronically challenged.

 

[slcfj62]

Sounds like the relay to me. To be sure, you can test the motor by applying battery voltage directly to it. Reverse the polarity to reverse the direction. The relay contacts get eroded and fail to conduct electricity. That is why you here the click of the contacts closing, but don't get any action.

 

[gmgardner99]

Before I dive into this fix (relays have been ordered) and adding relays to the remaining windows like in your other thread, I thought I'd throw my problem out there to see if it sounds like the green box relay problem to slcfj62:

My drivers front window doesn't go up or down, and I am getting a voltage pull when I trigger the switch up or down. Does this sound like a bad relay?

 

[SeattleFJ62]

Huge thanks and additional notes

Huge thanks slcfj62 - after a very cold 2 hour drive back to Seattle from the North Cascades due to the window lock button breaking, I figured I should also replay the relays after reading your post months ago. Pics below, it was my first time soldering, not as bad as I thought it would be. Relays were ~4$ a piece, and a bit taller than the originals, so they just barely fit. I had to cut off a tiny bit that was stick up from them (no idea what it was for). You can see from the photos the difference in height of the old relay, and the new relays.- everything is in, tested, and working!

There were lots of pitted contacts and black dust in the windows buttons control unit so I cleaned that up and polished the contacts. I went ahead and soldered the windows lock permanently since the button broke.

All up about $60 dollars in parts (soldering iron, solder sucker, solder, solder wick, relays, smaller soldering tip).

 

[Spook50]

I still have to do mine. Now that I have a somewhat legitimate electronics station set up on my work bench, I should hurry up and order them so I can get this done.

Gotta do the relay mod for the other windows too. I wish there were smaller (physical size) relays available that could handle the amperage the window motors pull. Maybe a circuit board that uses these same relays would work well. I might have to see if I can do something up and prototype it....

 

[cruisermatt]

So I did this fix about a year and a half ago, I replaced both relays. Has worked great since then. But... the other day the drivers window stopped working exactly how it was before. This time a replaced one relay only and the window works again.

 

[HoJo 61]

Bump, is there any way i can bypass the green(red) relay box? Auto down feature is not necessary to me, i just want the windows move up and down.
Wish i had an A/C...

 

[HoJo 61]

Anybody?

 

[cruisermatt]

Up/down is within that green box, so no.

 

[Slow Left]

Do you have a wiring diagram of the circuit you can post up?

What FSM covers the Body Electrical for a 1990 HJ61?

...and I thought Toyota stopped production of the HJ61 in 1/90, so does that mean that your rig is one of the last HJ61s built?

 

[HoJo 61]

Thank you for your replies.

@Slow Left I´ve used the 1984-1990 chassis-body FSM. Not sure tho are the wiring diagrams exactly the same for HJ61 than FJ62.
Yes, i believe it's one of the last 61's ever build as it's registered in late January.

 

[Slow Left]

Thank you for your replies.

@Slow Left I´ve used the 1984-1990 chassis-body FSM. Not sure tho are the wiring diagrams exactly the same for HJ61 than FJ62.
Yes, i believe it's one of the last 61's ever build as it's registered in late January.

OK, yeah I took at look at the 1984-90 chassis-body FSM and it didn't list the HJ61 as one of the vehicles it covers...which is why I asked.

It would be nice to have for sure the correct wiring diagram...but even then I still don't know if I would have a solution to the problem...the best I could do is talk through it until possible solutions present themselves...

Do you know anyone else with an HJ61 who might have the correct wiring diagram? Also, I'll take a look again at the .pdfs I've got to see if it is covered in one of them...

 

[HoJo 61]

Thank you for your interest in helping, Slow.

As far as i remember i've read somewhere on Finnish forums that Toyota never made wiring diagrams for the HJ61, as it was the same as FJ62.
I have no clue is it true or false...

 

[Slow Left]

This thread shows a wiring diagram that claims is supposed to be for the HJ61, but the diagram itself isn't labeled as such:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/looking-for-a-hj61-wiring-diagram.301992/

 

[Slow Left]

is there any way i can bypass the green(red) relay box? Auto down feature is not necessary to me, i just want the windows move up and down.

So, going back to your original question, it seems like you want the driver's window to function the same as the other 3 windows, and not have the auto feature.

Here is the wiring diagram of the Power Window circuit for the 60 series (from the back of the '1984-90 chassis body' FSM):

The wire labeled 'L' is 12V+ ('hot')...I've put a red box around where it splits right before the PW master switch and PW motors.
The green boxes show the common ground.

 

[Slow Left]

Each of the 4 individual window motors will only operate when current is delivered to it.

...and current will only flow through that particular electric motor when a path to ground is created.

The path to ground for a particular motor is controlled by the switch(es) in front of it.
So, if the switch(s) in front of it are open, there is no path to ground, therefore no current will pass through the motor, therefor the motor will not run.
Likewise, if the switch(es) in front of it are open closed, there IS a path to ground, therefore current can flow and will pass through the motor and the motor will run.

...and the 'Lock Switch' controls all 4 Window Motors at the same time... by controlling the path to ground BEHIND the switches/motors....so when the 'Lock Switch' is ON (i.e.open), no path to ground is allowed for any of the 4 Window Motors.

 

[Slow Left]

 

[Slow Left]

All three of these individual Window Motor circuits all work using the same principle

 

[Slow Left]

If you flip the FR,LH switch at the Master Switch to 'Down', current will flow in from the 'hot' L wire, through the now closed 'Down' side of the switch for FR,LH motor at the Master Switch, pass through the undisturbed FR,LH Door Switch, pass through the motor (in a direction that will rotate the FR,LH window down), back up through the still undisturbed FR,LH Door Switch, back up through the undisturbed 'Up' side of the FR,LH Master Switch, out through ground at the FR,LH Master Switch, through the closed Lock Switch and out to a common ground.