Taking the old cores out would let any refrigerant escape wouldn't it?
Is it as easy as unscrewing Schrader valves? I bought 134a adapters but they won't thread on. I do still have some refrigerant in the system.
FJ62 compressor replacement and 134a conversion (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter amw2320
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Taking the old cores out would let any refrigerant escape wouldn't it?
Is it as easy as unscrewing Schrader valves? I bought 134a adapters but they won't thread on. I do still have some refrigerant in the system.
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
@Southbound If you still have refrigerant in your system then then, yes, removing the cores will release the refrigerant. You’ll want to have the refrigerant removed before getting started with the project. The valves will happen when the system is open, at the same time as replacing the dryer and any other components.
Valve core tool
Removing the cores is super easy. You just need to get a tool for it, which will only cost about $2 from the auto parts store.
Screwing the adapter onto the old valves should also be very easy. I believe there’s a torque spec when tightening them but can remember off hand. Use some red loctite on them as well
Valve core tool
Removing the cores is super easy. You just need to get a tool for it, which will only cost about $2 from the auto parts store.
Screwing the adapter onto the old valves should also be very easy. I believe there’s a torque spec when tightening them but can remember off hand. Use some red loctite on them as well
I gotta tell you I just love these forums because you learn so much. So thanking everyone in this thread for their input.
So as I do the conversion to r134, at the end of the day is there a consensus as to what new R/D part# we should use? and easiest place to get it?
Since i'm a little too environmentally conscious and don't want to just 'release' all the R12 into the atmosphere I have an appointment with a shop in 2 weeks to evac the R12 and do a pressure test to see if there is a leak. Then I can remove the cooler box to change the TXV; also will clean and drain the compressor (unless it's leaking in which case i'll replace it) and refill with PAG, and then of course replace the R/D, and put on the correct valve stems.
thanks again for all the help!!
jay
So as I do the conversion to r134, at the end of the day is there a consensus as to what new R/D part# we should use? and easiest place to get it?
Since i'm a little too environmentally conscious and don't want to just 'release' all the R12 into the atmosphere I have an appointment with a shop in 2 weeks to evac the R12 and do a pressure test to see if there is a leak. Then I can remove the cooler box to change the TXV; also will clean and drain the compressor (unless it's leaking in which case i'll replace it) and refill with PAG, and then of course replace the R/D, and put on the correct valve stems.
thanks again for all the help!!
jay
Nothing wrong with that.
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
I think
I think anything but the Denso is ok. But if you get the Four Seasons / NAPA then you’ll want something like the fitting from Cruiser Head or some rubber to make it fit securely.
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
And good job finding a place to take the R12. I must have called 20 shops before I could find someone.
Update: R12 evacuated and cooler box is out. I’m going to replace the pressure switch while everything is apart. In other mud posts some people have put product part numbers up but so far I can not find the listed products. Now I’ve found other pressure switches (four seasons HVAC binary switch 8059-05762311) but before I go installing the wrong thing does anyone have any current product part number that we know works? the one I took out is denso 0850 and I can even find that.
also does anyone know how to individually pressure test or leak test the condenser and evaporator? I don’t think either of them are leaking but again don’t want to do the work twice! Thanks
jay
also does anyone know how to individually pressure test or leak test the condenser and evaporator? I don’t think either of them are leaking but again don’t want to do the work twice! Thanks
jay
LtcOliverNorth
SILVER Star
I know I am replying to an ancient thread, but thank you for these part numbers. I was having a hell of a time tracking down a fitting that would fit the threading of the high-side connector. Just ordered these from O'Reilly's... fingers crossed.
dogcruiser
SILVER Star
They worked great!
One thing I learned through this project was that the Denso receiver/drier is not meant to be used with 134a. Not sure if you saw that part of the conversation or not. There are others like the 4 Seasons that will work.
LtcOliverNorth
SILVER Star
Got the adapters today, and still no joy for the high-side connector. I finally smartened up and checked the threads on the high-side cap and it turns out I need a 3/8-24 threaded adapter; couldn't find them anywhere except on eBay direct from China so I had to go that route for the high-side.
Evening,
1988 FJ62… based on the attached photos, is this R12 or has it been converted to R134? I’m guessing still R12… but what do the educated experts here say? Thank you in advance.
-Tom
1988 FJ62… based on the attached photos, is this R12 or has it been converted to R134? I’m guessing still R12… but what do the educated experts here say? Thank you in advance.
-Tom
How about those fittings though… is one of them R12 and one R134?
Thanks!
Not all of them, I have a R134a dryer that still has a sight glass. The easiest way to tell the two apart is their size, R12 driers are bigger in diameter than their R134a counterparts.
@DuxTom It looks like your truck has been converted to R134a since there is a conversion fitting on the low side of your A/C compressor.
Thanks @yotadude520… kind of what I was thinking, but shouldn’t there also be a conversion fitting on the high side as well!? Isn’t the present threaded high fitting the OEM R12 fitting? Thanks to everyone for guidance here. Plan to run the truck by an old school AC shop in the next few days and hopefully clear things up. -Tom
LtcOliverNorth
SILVER Star
I wouldn't say that's a 100% indicator... I just recharged my system with R12, and used an R134 quick disconnect on the low-side to fill it up with R12 because my vacuum pump/fill kit used the QDs. YMMV
I’d say you are correct. It is probably still R12. The “R12 compatible” refill cans come with that adapter on the low side only. If it was a proper R134 conversion, it would have the adapters on both the low and the high side. Just reading this thread while my system is hooked to a vacuum pump.
Correct, connectors are just connectors, they don't guarantee what you have in the system. it's all about the manifold gauge compatibility. it's what you connect to the other side of the manifold Gauge is what counts. R12 or R134.
Only the Low side was put on as the High side 3/8 -24 UNF converter is HARD to find. Also please note that the Bulletin quotes 3/8-20 UNF, which does not exist. Assuming this was an error in the bulletin.
bought this thing on Amazon... unfortunately both high and low were 7/16-20 UNF, but like the TSB stated, they need to be 7/16 and 3/8...
Last edited:
